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Denitrators...Useful?


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:D

No, I will never condemn it, I am using it for 3 years + with much success. Think there are some prevous threads on this.

there are a few possible reasons for people condemning it....

1) Too expensive, kinda unbelievable that a box that contains bioballs cost more than 500

2) Difficult to tune to the correct drip rate, the brief manual is not helpful at all

3) It takes time to run in. It is not ###### that helps you 'make it' within minutes :lol:

I am using the German brand Aqxxmedxx denitrator, don't know about other brands though....

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:D

No, I will never condemn it, I am using it for 3 years + with much success. Think there are some prevous threads on this.

there are a few possible reasons for people condemning it....

1) Too expensive, kinda unbelievable that a box that contains bioballs cost more than 500

2) Difficult to tune to the correct drip rate, the brief manual is not helpful at all

3) It takes time to run in. It is not ###### that helps you 'make it' within minutes :lol:

I am using the German brand Aqxxmedxx denitrator, don't know about other brands though....

have you even encounter problem whereby the drip just suddenly stop by itself and you have to retune again, measuring n03, no2. and where you bought your deniballs ?

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My experience with Denitrator is both sour and sweet for both of my 6ft tanks due to my hatred in doing partial water changes. Would rather spend my time admiring my corals and livestocks.

Sour because of the hassle of tuning the unit a coil denitrator which can be a pain in the neck during the "break-in" period of about 2 months for a well-stocked tank. Tuning is to ensure the right amount of drips.

In addition, the weekly feeding to the unit to ensure that the bacteria are breaking down the nitrates effectively. Without feeding it still works but not as effective.

But once the coil denitrator is mature .. it just rock and roll with weekly feeding only.

With this success, the sweet experience is from the Nitratreductor 1000 from AquaMedic for the other 6ft tank which includes the dosing pump that provides the right drip rate. So no tuning is need .. what a relief. :)

Moreover, no feeding is needed if you place deniballs for the bacteria to feed. Only replace them when the white deniballs "disappear" visually from the unit. This equipment is idiot proof ie just plug and play!

So do we need to have partial water changes? Personally, if you ensure proper balance of all trace elements in the aquarium then it is not necessary afterall having partial water changes is to replace "lost" trace elements, right?

But if you are uncomfortable, just do it every few months rather than weekly, fortnitely or monthly. ;)

My 20cts today ... :peace:

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Having unit of AquamXXX model 400.

Still not too sure how to turn it.

Any guru to advise? :thanks:

Either use a dosing pump or connect a airline valve in your outflow tube.

Here is a pic:

post-7-1100326373.jpg

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People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

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have you even encounter problem whereby the drip just suddenly stop by itself and you have to retune again, measuring n03, no2. and where you bought your deniballs ?

if I am not wrong, deniballs are available at Aqxxmxxt.

The drip rate will be inconsistent if you drive the denitrator with a weak pump. Some uses the dosing pump, this one does help but I do not like it because the drip rate is fixed. The problem with fixed drip rate is it may not necessarily suits your tank, since bioload differs from tank to tank.

I use a cheap 2000L/Hr PH, to drive both the denitrator and chiller, via a T-joint. Also added an extra valve at the outlet for finetuning. The drip rate hasn't changed for the last few years.... :D

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How long does it take for the unit to mature??

The coil denitrator servicing the "old" 6ft tank took about 8 weeks to break-in since it is an established tank when I installed it with 25% water change prior to installation of the denitrator due to high Nitrate level.

Whereas for the "new" 6ft tank, the AquaMedic took about 5 weeks to kick-in since it started as a new setup. Hasn't do any partial water changes for 3 months liao.

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People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

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Sorry i have not used a denitrator before but are the deniballs made of plastic?

Deniballs are made from a special biological based plastic material where in the absence of oxygen, the anaerobic bacteria metabolize this material which reduce nitrate to nitrogen gas. In short, it is a filter medium and bacterium food for the denitrator.

However, Deniballs doesn't come inexpensive and it will burn your pocket. But it worth every $ as it lasts 12 months or more depending on the tank bio-load.

Another alternative is to use denimar which is a nutrient powder contains organic substances disolving slowly in water and are "eaten" by the bacteria. Setback is that you have to dose your denitrator daily.

Denimar is less costly than Deniballs ..

aquatronica7na.gif

People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

How You Make Them Feel.

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Deniballs are made from a special biological based plastic material where in the absence of oxygen, the anaerobic bacteria metabolize this material which reduce nitrate to nitrogen gas. In short, it is a filter medium and bacterium food for the denitrator.

HMMM... <_<

Haiz.................... :pinch::erm:

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if I am not wrong, deniballs are available at Aqxxmxxt.

The drip rate will be inconsistent if you drive the denitrator with a weak pump. Some uses the dosing pump, this one does help but I do not like it because the drip rate is fixed. The problem with fixed drip rate is it may not necessarily suits your tank, since bioload differs from tank to tank.

I use a cheap 2000L/Hr PH, to drive both the denitrator and chiller, via a T-joint. Also added an extra valve at the outlet for finetuning. The drip rate hasn't changed for the last few years.... :D

i'm also using a 2100l/hr ph to drive my skimmer and denitrator via t-joint, but what i lack is a valve at the outlet, maybe that is the problem, right ? and do you clean the inlet or outlet hose to prevent choking ?

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