Advice needed for starting new

[viper0419]

Hi again,

 

Can I ask, I currently have 1 x Jebao SLW-20m wave maker. Is that enough or I need another one?

To recap, I have a reefer 170 so tank size is roughly 60cmx 50cm x 50cm (34 gallon or 130 litres of display tank volume. I plan to keep mix of fishes, soft corals, lps and sps. 
 

 

[dtdream]

you can just use one first. if you need more can always add later.

[viper0419]

oh okay. thanks.

[Mark Liew]

Hi again,
 
Can I ask, I currently have 1 x Jebao SLW-20m wave maker. Is that enough or I need another one?
To recap, I have a reefer 170 so tank size is roughly 60cmx 50cm x 50cm (34 gallon or 130 litres of display tank volume. I plan to keep mix of fishes, soft corals, lps and sps. 
 
 

Add and upgrade items as time goes by whenever needed..


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[viper0419]

Guys,

Got my first setback today.

I added 2 clown into my tank on Saturday. Noticed that the bigger one is not eating.

Yesterday saw some white spot on it. Today saw it has white slime over the body. 

I googled that it the symptoms fitted Brooklynella very much. Rush out to buy Ritz Quick Cure and Seachem Metroplex.

Came home fish already dead. Not sure how it can go from lively to dead in just a few hours. 

Any idea how it could have gotten it?

[dtdream]

Quite a few potential reasons..

1. Depends on what condition the fish was when you bought it.

Most LFS run at least a little/therapeutic level copper in their tanks so it may have been suppressed. When you put in your copper free water, then all comes out (Brooklynella/ich, etc).

Best is if you see fish feeding and behaving normally at fish shop before buying. Ask the shop to feed abit for you to see. If not feeding, better stay away until you are more experienced in coaxing fish to eat. But even then its still 50/50.

2. But importantly also, what are your tank parameters? For fish just concern yourself with Ammonia, Nitrate levels.

3. I know yours is a new tank, so your cycle complete?

4. Did you acclimate your fish before putting in your tank? If yes, how you acclimate? What is your salinity level? If salinity level big difference fast acclimation is problematic, especially if LFS salinity is lower and yours is much higher. eg. 1.020 to 1.026. 

5. What rocks you use? Do you have any used media/rocks/sand?

Edited November 15, 2021 by dtdream

[DottyClown]

Didn’t you just started your tank less than 3 weeks ago? You can’t have finished your cycling so fast.

My guess is the fish was too stressed out because tank is not ready for inhabitants yet and thus in its weakened state, it got attacked by whatever its body had been able to fend off previously.  Would suggest you quickly give up the surviving clownfish to someone with an established tank.

Patience is key in this hobby.

[dtdream]

Actually 3 weeks is possible. If some rock/media from established tank is used (but must ensure established tank no ich, etc.). Or wack the a lot bacteria.

But yea need OP to advise what is the tank's parameters, esp ammonia..

But I guess the issue is not totally because of tank not completely cycled. Must have been something else too, eg. fish not healthy. Cuz if fish healthy it won't die in 1 or 2 days even if tank not completely cycled (unless OP added ammonia to cycle and levels still high).

And/or Salinity change too fast.

Probably a combination of factors...

 

[viper0419]

4 hours ago, dtdream said:

Quite a few potential reasons..

1. Depends on what condition the fish was when you bought it.

Most LFS run at least a little/therapeutic level copper in their tanks so it may have been suppressed. When you put in your copper free water, then all comes out (Brooklynella/ich, etc).

Best is if you see fish feeding and behaving normally at fish shop before buying. Ask the shop to feed abit for you to see. If not feeding, better stay away until you are more experienced in coaxing fish to eat. But even then its still 50/50.

2. But importantly also, what are your tank parameters? For fish just concern yourself with Ammonia, Nitrate levels.

3. I know yours is a new tank, so your cycle complete?

4. Did you acclimate your fish before putting in your tank? If yes, how you acclimate? What is your salinity level? If salinity level big difference fast acclimation is problematic, especially if LFS salinity is lower and yours is much higher. eg. 1.020 to 1.026. 

5. What rocks you use? Do you have any used media/rocks/sand?

1. I choose the 2 most active ones from the tank. 
2 &3. Tank is cycled. Used caribsea live sand and live rocks. Together with Ritz Zyme 9. Ammo 0 Nitrate 6.1 (Hanna)

4. I did acclimate. Add small portion of water using cup over 1 hour. Salinity is 1.026. 
 

5. media is marine pure. One block and one bag of spheres. 
 

doubt it’s my water. The smaller one is doing ok. Actually off the bat during first feeding I’ve noticed that the smaller one went after food but not the bigger one. I thought just need time to adjust. 

[dtdream]

1 hour ago, viper0419 said:

1. I choose the 2 most active ones from the tank. 
2 &3. Tank is cycled. Used caribsea live sand and live rocks. Together with Ritz Zyme 9. Ammo 0 Nitrate 6.1 (Hanna)

4. I did acclimate. Add small portion of water using cup over 1 hour. Salinity is 1.026. 
 

5. media is marine pure. One block and one bag of spheres. 
 

doubt it’s my water. The smaller one is doing ok. Actually off the bat during first feeding I’ve noticed that the smaller one went after food but not the bigger one. I thought just need time to adjust. 

Ok. Did you see the fish eating at the fish shop? This is pretty important imo. I usually only buy fish which is eating at the shop unless it’s those hard to come by ones and I really really want, then will tikam.

Btw, active not necessarily most healthy. For example, the fellow have itch and swimming around trying to scratch. It’s more of “normal swimming behavior”.  Also, some fish natural behavior is just “relax one corner”. Hard to describe but you just gotta look at more “healthy fish” and do bit of research before buying. 

For common fish like clowns, in fact I’ll ask the shop roughly how long its been in the shop. If just come etc, I will skip. If stable for few weeks, which you should be able to find for common clowns, then I will buy (and feeding!). BUT, big caveat is also if certain tanks you see other fish have health problems (esp ich), then it’s almost guaranteed the fish which has been in that tank for few weeks will have it too, no matter how healthy it looks. 

Ok noted your tank is 1.026 and acclimate slowly one hour should be fine. I’m assuming drip acclimate? But just be careful also sometimes our calibration is off. What I like to do also is test the water in the fish bag. So I roughly know what’s the difference. 

I would say that if your other fish is fine, then most probably the fish which mati is already compromised when you bought. Whatever it had was just suppressed by the copper in the shop’s tank. Just make sure next time best if you see it feeding at the shop. Don’t paiseh to ask the shop if feeding. IME all shops I visit will tell you, and most will feed for you to see if you ask. 

But, as with all things, can be just suay. Just hope for your sake it’s not one of those expensive “designer” ones. 

 

[dtdream]

Another thing I would like to add before I get bashed. Some other more experience reefers believe that it is better to get the fish when just arrive, so that the fish doesn’t get to soak and kena anything in the LFS tank. 

I agree especially if you are experienced, have a super established tank with UV, have quarantine tank, know how to take care of those just arrive fish, and know how to coax the fish to eat. Best if most or all of the above. 

 

[viper0419]

6 minutes ago, dtdream said:

Ok. Did you see the fish eating at the fish shop? This is pretty important imo. I usually only buy fish which is eating at the shop unless it’s those hard to come by ones and I really really want, then will tikam.

Btw, active not necessarily most healthy. For example, the fellow have itch and swimming around trying to scratch. It’s more of “normal swimming behavior”.  Also, some fish natural behavior is just “relax one corner”. Hard to describe but you just gotta look at more “healthy fish” and do bit of research before buying. 

For common fish like clowns, in fact I’ll ask the shop roughly how long its been in the shop. If just come etc, I will skip. If stable for few weeks, which you should be able to find for common clowns, then I will buy (and feeding!). BUT, big caveat is also if certain tanks you see other fish have health problems (esp ich), then it’s almost guaranteed the fish which has been in that tank for few weeks will have it too, no matter how healthy it looks. 

Ok noted your tank is 1.026 and acclimate slowly one hour should be fine. I’m assuming drip acclimate? But just be careful also sometimes our calibration is off. What I like to do also is test the water in the fish bag. So I roughly know what’s the difference. 

I would say that if your other fish is fine, then most probably the fish which mati is already compromised when you bought. Whatever it had was just suppressed by the copper in the shop’s tank. Just make sure next time best if you see it feeding at the shop. Don’t paiseh to ask the shop if feeding. IME all shops I visit will tell you, and most will feed for you to see if you ask. 

But, as with all things, can be just suay. Just hope for your sake it’s not one of those expensive “designer” ones. 

 

they weren't feeding the fish then. i didn't know can ask them feed before choosing.

I've only gotten the common clown cos i like the vibrant orange. but still it feels sad for the fish to die within hours.

thanks for the advice!

[viper0419]

3 minutes ago, dtdream said:

Another thing I would like to add before I get bashed. Some other more experience reefers believe that it is better to get the fish when just arrive, so that the fish doesn’t get to soak and kena anything in the LFS tank. 

I agree especially if you are experienced, have a super established tank with UV, have quarantine tank, know how to take care of those just arrive fish, and know how to coax the fish to eat. Best if most or all of the above. 

 

i've contemplated setting up a QT before. but not very practical cos don't have space to run a spare tank that will be empty most of the time. i've just gone ahead to buy a spare acrylic tank and filter. is it possible to run a QT only when i buy new fishes? 

[dtdream]

7 minutes ago, viper0419 said:

they weren't feeding the fish then. i didn't know can ask them feed before choosing.

I've only gotten the common clown cos i like the vibrant orange. but still it feels sad for the fish to die within hours.

thanks for the advice!

Yea usually can ask to show you to feed. The shop knows if their fish is feeding one la. 

But please practise common courtesy and only ask if you sincere in buying la. Don’t later ask shop feed, you see fish feeding then don’t buy. Later kena “mark”, next time they see you won’t feed for you liao haha

[viper0419]

3 minutes ago, dtdream said:

Yea usually can ask to show you to feed. The shop knows if their fish is feeding one la. 

But please practise common courtesy and only ask if you sincere in buying la. Don’t later ask shop feed, you see fish feeding then don’t buy. Later kena “mark”, next time they see you won’t feed for you liao haha

 lol. no no. I very paiseh one. will only ask if i am really buying. right now im just gonna let the lone clown stay in there till its more stabilized. 

[dtdream]

4 minutes ago, viper0419 said:

i've contemplated setting up a QT before. but not very practical cos don't have space to run a spare tank that will be empty most of the time. i've just gone ahead to buy a spare acrylic tank and filter. is it possible to run a QT only when i buy new fishes? 

How big is your spare acrylic tank? Too small also not so good ah. 

But yes it is possible. You buy a few small bags, I think the ans brand it cheap and good. You put some media in the bag and throw in your main sump. 

When you need to run QT, just do a water change in your main tank, use the main tank water put in your QT, then put the small bag of media into a simple hob filter. Then viola, you got a QT tank.

But caveat is again your main tank must be relatively established la, so like I would say maybe 3-6 months? For your media in small bag to get the established bacteria. Then, the small bag also have to soak in your established tank sump I would say at least 2-3 weeks? Some people on overseas forum I read say 1 week can liao. But I think at least 2-3 weeks or more to be safe. Just bring out our Singapore kiasu spirit here is best. 

[viper0419]

5 minutes ago, dtdream said:

How big is your spare acrylic tank? Too small also not so good ah. 

But yes it is possible. You buy a few small bags, I think the ans brand it cheap and good. You put some media in the bag and throw in your main sump. 

When you need to run QT, just do a water change in your main tank, use the main tank water put in your QT, then put the small bag of media into a simple hob filter. Then viola, you got a QT tank.

But caveat is again your main tank must be relatively established la, so like I would say maybe 3-6 months? For your media in small bag to get the established bacteria. Then, the small bag also have to soak in your established tank sump I would say at least 2-3 weeks? Some people on overseas forum I read say 1 week can liao. But I think at least 2-3 weeks or more to be safe. Just bring out our Singapore kiasu spirit here is best. 

Its about 10 gallons. 

thanks again for the tip bro.

[dtdream]

3 minutes ago, viper0419 said:

Its about 10 gallons. 

thanks again for the tip bro.

10 gallons is fair size. Just don’t keep a big Naso or something in there

If you end up really doing a QT, buy some PVC elbow pipes put inside for the fish to hide too. 

If you plan to run copper, keep in mind the media you put in the small bag don’t absorb copper. And no rocks as well (absorb copper). The seachem matrix again some overseas reefers tested and seems it doesn’t absorb copper so you could potentially use that.

[mhcraft]

34 minutes ago, dtdream said:

10 gallons is fair size. Just don’t keep a big Naso or something in there

If you end up really doing a QT, buy some PVC elbow pipes put inside for the fish to hide too. 

If you plan to run copper, keep in mind the media you put in the small bag don’t absorb copper. And no rocks as well (absorb copper). The seachem matrix again some overseas reefers tested and seems it doesn’t absorb copper so you could potentially use that.

Great advices...just to add, 10g is more than enough as bare in mind, assuming if you are doing copper treatment, you just need to host them for 30 days and let's be honest...those separation tanks in the LFS are much smaller than 10g.

I once performed QT and 30 days of copper treatment on a blue tang, 2 clown fishes and one purple tang in a tank smaller than 10g...i am not recommending it but if choosing between no QT vs QT in a small tank, i always choose the latter.

Eradication vs. Management is something you need to decide...some vouch strongly for one and others the other. I personally prefer eradication and management seems to be like a time-bomb.

On feeding, 100% - so far, no LFS rejected my request to demonstrate that the fish is able to feed on pellets before I purchase them

[viper0419]

39 minutes ago, dtdream said:

10 gallons is fair size. Just don’t keep a big Naso or something in there

If you end up really doing a QT, buy some PVC elbow pipes put inside for the fish to hide too. 

If you plan to run copper, keep in mind the media you put in the small bag don’t absorb copper. And no rocks as well (absorb copper). The seachem matrix again some overseas reefers tested and seems it doesn’t absorb copper so you could potentially use that.

I’m only gonna do few livestock and focus on corals. 

I find QT for corals toughest to do.  Need to take care of flow, light and temperature. It’s like setting up another aquarium. 

[viper0419]

I am trying to setup my Protein skimmer. Can anyone tell me where does A & B goes to? The manual is non-existant. 

[mhcraft]

Thats weird as there should only be one hose going back to the top of the skimmer cover for air flow. Should be able to find the manual fairly easily - i believe its this one

 

https://www.seasideaquatics.com/BM/BMC3.5-2.pdf 

[iwantreefs]

I am trying to setup my Protein skimmer. Can anyone tell me where does A & B goes to? The manual is non-existant. 

Hi bro,

A is an outlet drain, so you don’t need to remove the cup to cleam skimmate, can open the cap to pour the dirt into a little cup to dispose of.

B is an air intake valve, just leave it be.


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[iwantreefs]

Hi bro,

A is an outlet drain, so you don’t need to remove the cup to cleam skimmate, can open the cap to pour the dirt into a little cup to dispose of.

B is an air intake valve, just leave it be.


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For B There’s the orange part which can be slotted into a hole in the cap of the top.


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[viper0419]

6 minutes ago, iwantreefs said:

 

For B There’s the orange part which can be slotted into a hole in the cap of the top.


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Thanks for answer bro. So for A I can remove and use the cup instead? I have no where else to divert the hose to.