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Do we even need to worry about nitrate and phosphate?


Dennerle
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Understand zooxanthellae are on coral and they utilise nitrate and phosphate during photosynthesis.

 

Then, do we still need to worry about those levels in a closed packed tank with corals?

 

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Equipment

• 60cm x 45cm x 50cm tank

• Chiller at 25 to 26 Celsius

• OASE Biomaster 250

• 75W lighting

• Jebao SOW-5M Wavemaker

• RODI water with 25% weekly water change

• no protein skimmer/ no calcium reactor

Livestock

▪︎2 Ocellaris Clown

▪︎1 White Bellied Yellow Wrasse

▪︎1 Yellow Tang

▪︎2 Green-Blue Chromis

▪︎1 Orange Spotted Goby

▪︎1 Tailspot Blenny

▪︎1 Tiger Pistol Shrimp

 

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These are important parameters to track as will influence the algae growth in your display.

Besides algae, nitrates and phosphate also can affect how ur corals look. Based on understanding, higher nutrient the zoozanthelle will be more so corals appear darker, with lower nutrient zoo is less so color is lighter, old school reefers with sps dominant run Ultra low nutrient system (ULNS) and the sps will give a pastel look.

That being said, i would not recommend to chase the numbers but to keep nitrates and phosphate low. How low is low is up for debate, it depends on ur coral type loading. SPS require lower nutrient level to thrive and LPS/softies can tolerate higher nutrient. Its hard to say what values to shoot for as there are reefers with SPS dominant with higher nutrients level if u read the forums.

i myself running mix reef with sps lps and softies. i adopt a heavy in heavy out system so means the corals have chance to access to these nutrients before being taken out of system. i would recommend to keep nitrates 5-10 ppm and phosphate
I would say being consistent is more important, if ur tank going roller coaster in terms of nutrient, would say corals will not like it.

If your tank is matured, bio load is not changing much and tank pack of corals, i tink u should not have to worry as these parameters will be stable. unless of cos u do something drastic or try some new method of nutrient addition or reduction.

if ur tank is new,
my 2 cents. hope helpful to u. Happy reefing.


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These are important parameters to track as will influence the algae growth in your display.

Besides algae, nitrates and phosphate also can affect how ur corals look. Based on understanding, higher nutrient the zoozanthelle will be more so corals appear darker, with lower nutrient zoo is less so color is lighter, old school reefers with sps dominant run Ultra low nutrient system (ULNS) and the sps will give a pastel look.

That being said, i would not recommend to chase the numbers but to keep nitrates and phosphate low. How low is low is up for debate, it depends on ur coral type loading. SPS require lower nutrient level to thrive and LPS/softies can tolerate higher nutrient. Its hard to say what values to shoot for as there are reefers with SPS dominant with higher nutrients level if u read the forums.

i myself running mix reef with sps lps and softies. i adopt a heavy in heavy out system so means the corals have chance to access to these nutrients before being taken out of system. i would recommend to keep nitrates 5-10 ppm and phosphate
I would say being consistent is more important, if ur tank going roller coaster in terms of nutrient, would say corals will not like it.

If your tank is matured, bio load is not changing much and tank pack of corals, i tink u should not have to worry as these parameters will be stable. unless of cos u do something drastic or try some new method of nutrient addition or reduction.

if ur tank is new,
my 2 cents. hope helpful to u. Happy reefing.


Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app


Some typo in previous post.

These are important parameters to track as will influence the algae growth in your display.

Besides algae, nitrates and phosphate also can affect how ur corals look. Based on understanding, higher nutrient the zoozanthelle will be more so corals appear darker, with lower nutrient zoo is less so color is lighter, old school reefers with sps dominant run Ultra low nutrient system (ULNS) and the sps will give a pastel look.

That being said, i would not recommend to chase the numbers but to keep nitrates and phosphate low. How low is low is up for debate, it depends on ur coral type loading. SPS require lower nutrient level to thrive and LPS/softies can tolerate higher nutrient. Its hard to say what values to shoot for as there are reefers with SPS dominant with higher nutrients level if u read the forums.

i myself running mix reef with sps lps and softies. i adopt a heavy in heavy out system so means the corals have chance to access to these nutrients before being taken out of system. i would recommend to keep nitrates 5-10 ppm and phosphate less than 0.1

I would say being consistent is more important, if ur tank going roller coaster in terms of nutrient, would say corals will not like it.

If your tank is matured, bio load is not changing much and tank pack of corals, i tink u should not have to worry as these parameters will be stable. unless of cos u do something drastic or try some new method of nutrient addition or reduction.

if ur tank is new, like less than 3 months, and u jam pack corals in short space of time, u should probably keep a close eye as ur nutrient export like ur bacteria is not fully establish and ur nutrient import like the fish list is not yet finalized.

my 2 cents. hope helpful to u. Happy reefing.


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On 12/7/2020 at 11:51 PM, Dennerle said:

 

Understand zooxanthellae are on coral and they utilise nitrate and phosphate during photosynthesis.

 

Then, do we still need to worry about those levels in a closed packed tank with corals?

 

Nitrates & phosphates at very  high levels are toxic to fish & corals. Some corals are more tolerant of high nitrate/phosphates (eg softies, zoanthids). So there is a 'good range' that is beneficial. And a limit beyond which it starts to stress fish/corals.

Just like in humans, to quote one example, overdose of beneficial elements such as calcium can lead to renal stones, kidney failure and death.

 

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What are you currently keeping ? Like some mention as long as your coral and tank seem ok, and you dont have major algae issue then it should be fine. 
I'm having

Coral
1cm frag Watermelon zoath
1cm frag birdnest
1 hammer
2 torches
1 ricordea yuma
1 candy coral
1 lepto
1 goniopora
1 brain coral
1 bleeding apple
1 button scoly
1 rainbow acan
1 ultra acan

Livestock
2 x oscellaris clownfish
1 x firefish
1 x purple firefish
1 x orange spotted goby
2 x tailspot blenny
1 x Yellow Tang
1 x white bellied yellow wrasse

I was plaqued with diatom brown algae. However, recently improved alot automatically with still some leftover browning on substrate.

Previously whole sand dark brown.



Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Equipment

• 60cm x 45cm x 50cm tank

• Chiller at 25 to 26 Celsius

• OASE Biomaster 250

• 75W lighting

• Jebao SOW-5M Wavemaker

• RODI water with 25% weekly water change

• no protein skimmer/ no calcium reactor

Livestock

▪︎2 Ocellaris Clown

▪︎1 White Bellied Yellow Wrasse

▪︎1 Yellow Tang

▪︎2 Green-Blue Chromis

▪︎1 Orange Spotted Goby

▪︎1 Tailspot Blenny

▪︎1 Tiger Pistol Shrimp

 

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I'm having

Coral
1cm frag Watermelon zoath
1cm frag birdnest
1 hammer
2 torches
1 ricordea yuma
1 candy coral
1 lepto
1 goniopora
1 brain coral
1 bleeding apple
1 button scoly
1 rainbow acan
1 ultra acan

Livestock
2 x oscellaris clownfish
1 x firefish
1 x purple firefish
1 x orange spotted goby
2 x tailspot blenny
1 x Yellow Tang
1 x white bellied yellow wrasse

I was plaqued with diatom brown algae. However, recently improved alot automatically with still some leftover browning on substrate.

Previously whole sand dark brown.



Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app



If your tank is less than 1 year old then you should try and keep nitrates or phospates as low as possible. At less than one year your tank may not have the microbiome to compete against the nuisance algae. For more established tanks that is never a problem.



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If your tank is less than 1 year old then you should try and keep nitrates or phospates as low as possible. At less than one year your tank may not have the microbiome to compete against the nuisance algae. For more established tanks that is never a problem.



Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
Thanks! I added in seachem matrix and aquavitro phosfiltrum into my filter to try reduct those numbers! Hope can see major difference

Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Equipment

• 60cm x 45cm x 50cm tank

• Chiller at 25 to 26 Celsius

• OASE Biomaster 250

• 75W lighting

• Jebao SOW-5M Wavemaker

• RODI water with 25% weekly water change

• no protein skimmer/ no calcium reactor

Livestock

▪︎2 Ocellaris Clown

▪︎1 White Bellied Yellow Wrasse

▪︎1 Yellow Tang

▪︎2 Green-Blue Chromis

▪︎1 Orange Spotted Goby

▪︎1 Tailspot Blenny

▪︎1 Tiger Pistol Shrimp

 

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