Is it worth buying Denitrator or just use AZ-NO3?

[terryansimon]

there. I think you mis-read/quoted him.

Note that I don’t include any discussion of water changes, though obviously they work to some extent.  The problem is that it is very hard to reduce the nitrate concentration to natural levels in that fashion unless the system is constantly flushed with clean water.

(=

[terryansimon]

Anyway, Terryansimon and Alan.....thanks for all this infor......didnt know this posting could end up so educative for me.....thanks guys! Really appreciate that!

no problem. as a reward, I'd like either a Black Tang or an Archilles Tang. thank you.

[alanseah]

O I dont get this info from his article.. I got it personally from him...when I ask him in the forum..

[alanseah]

as for me dont mention.... I dont ask for anything.. me more honest type.. lolz....

[alanseah]

O I dont get this info from his article.. I got it personally from him...when I ask him in the forum..

also one thing to note and think about it...

yes we all know water change does help reduce n03... but how long u can staying keep changing water...soon u will tired out one.. as all your free time is given to your tank.... and end up u look more like a slave to your tank...

you can't be everyday at hme changing water... unless u full time to your tank...

somehow your tank have to be havest into a stage where it can run by it's own with little things to be done...of coz I dont be totally it can run by it own..

beside... water change dont solve the root... and u can never have stable condition by just doing water change... u get what i mean if u r keep sps..

your sps will grow crazy..

beside I have been once pointed out by a few old reefer to reduce water change to once a month...

Anyway everyone got their success in their method and not all method work in everyone tank.. so do your own study and test it out in your tank and see the result and learn to handle the need of your tank...

[kschew1498]

Wow lau a......thats really an expensive piece of advise.....hahahaha ......can change color or not.....blue tang can?

I like Alan more......

By the way, Tineng....thanks!

Now got to go read up on growing Micro-algae...hehe.....wondering I should change my current FL X 2 for my sump/refugium to a MH!!!!

Better log out now....Mdm waiting impatiently liao .....hehe.....she is leaving tonight .....Yahooo.....

[terryansimon]

I'm just amazed at how a tried/proven/tested method has been shrugged off. maybe he has his own reasons behind it, I don't know.

and besides, water change is suppose to be part of good husbandry. then again there are reefers who don't change water at all yet have a fantastic set up. hehz.

and the day you get tired from doing basic stuff like water changes, it spells the beginning of Old Tank Syndrome.

and PS. the comment about being slaves to the tanks? you may have offended many people. I know of people who'd rather die than part with their tanks. hehz. (=

[alanseah]

O u need to read up on the light for the macro-algae... as Dr Randy also did research on what type of light is gd...

go for those plant light.. and it dont mean high watt light will mean high growth... red light seem more like by the algae..

I recently found a light which is 15W engery saver which is equal to 75W light...and it work well for my algae... and this info all thanks to the guys who found it in the state...

With low watt and yet produce high growth...

[terryansimon]

its not only about wattage, but the temperature/spectrum of the light as well. if I'm not wrong, the best will be 6500K...

[alanseah]

I'm just amazed at how a tried/proven/tested method has been shrugged off. maybe he has his own reasons behind it, I don't know.

and besides, water change is suppose to be part of good husbandry. then again there are reefers who don't change water at all yet have a fantastic set up. hehz.

and the day you get tired from doing basic stuff like water changes, it spells the beginning of Old Tank Syndrome.

and PS. the comment about being slaves to the tanks? you may have offended many people. I know of people who'd rather die than part with their tanks. hehz. (=

Well I'm sorry if anyone would be offend by that very word..

well I dont really mean u all.. what I'm trying to say is just and e.g. cause I start feeling I'm a slave to it..

anyway I dont really try to shrugged off those proven/tested method I just want to highlight and let other just think about it....

Like I say you can do your own style I do mine.. so long we all got the same result... will do...

take math for e.g. 56 - 12 = 44 u can just do the normal way or u can use another mehtod add 4 to 56 to be 60 and then 60 - 10 - 6 = 44

whichevery way u got the result... just the kind of pefer.... for me I prefer the state and geman method in reefing... maybe that can explain why I dont believe in sandbed more then 4" thick... or having very powerful skimmer...

[terryansimon]

for photosynthetic plants, the blue and red spectrum is absorbed by the plant itself. I'm not sure if this can be applied to macroalgae. (=

[terryansimon]

urh. okay. nobody is doubting any of the methods. I never doubted any one of those methods in the first place.

just wondering why he was quick to gun down/shrug off water change when it has been the method that most reefers have been using in the earlier days of the hobby, before all the modern technologies like de-nitrators and what not was developed.

black cat/grey cat/red cat, as long as catch rat, can liao..

typically examplified in this case.

[kschew1498]

its not only about wattage, but the temperature/spectrum of the light as well. if I'm not wrong, the best will be 6500K...

Hmm.....one more question before I start reading.....does that mean I can simply change my 10kk FL light to a 6.5k light and it should do it???

hehe.....cant wait to work on my refugium.....have been ignoring it.......imagine a refugium at this state!!!

[kschew1498]

and this.....

Since then I have clean my 2 times already and have been scratching my head why like that..... ...thought it was my PO4 and long lightning hours....Sign!

[kschew1498]

a....sa la pic....should be this....anyway

[terryansimon]

mine used to be like that as well. thats probably formation of cyano...which isn't surprising, since the refugium lights is on a 24hr photo period *I presume*.

happened to mine as well. I just keep moving the water with my hands and catching/siphoning out the cyano on the upper surface. (=

now it never happened to me liao *touch wood*

[Achilles Tang]

I recommend AZ-NO3 only to those who are desperate to reduce NO3 from dangerous to harmless levels in a hurry or lack necessary equipment or the right setup for rapid nitrate removal/reduction.

For long term success, you basically need to export out nutrients faster then they break down into nitrates ie. invest in a good skimmer / or you have a Natural Nitrate Reduction system ie. a DSB or loads of LR.

Using macroalgae to export NO3 by harvesting is risky in my book because you may not be able to control the algae to stay in your sump or refugium tank. You may also run the risk of having a tank crash should your macroalgae grow asexual and release caulerpa toxins into the water. Should they lack a certain additive eg. iron/iodide, they may crash, adding too much nutrients of other kind that may mean other nuisance algae may take advantage and grow in your tank as well!

Just remember this saying... garbage in, garbage out. The equation must be balanced or bad things will happen. Its better to have the balanced tipped towards a system that will handle a sudden increase in pollution eg, a dead fish, anemone or coral and reduce/remove the toxins fast enough not to kill the rest of the tank... sadly, most people start with small, inadequate/inefficient skimmers, lack a reef-ready tank to incoporate more live rocks or a deep sand bed, or have inadequate husbandry skills or simply overload their immature tanks with lots of livestock with overfeeding.

Nitrates CAN be easily handled...

AT

[kschew1498]