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AquaMarin sells fish which have been trained to feeding eg; pellets, which increases chances of fish survival and adaptation to captivity. Ah Beng fish shop sells good variety of fish. Still, one must also do their own quarantine to boost chances of fish acclimating to your tank.

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So far No LFS sell fish that is very reliable and healthy.

All fish need to be quarantined in order to be safe else just matter of time to hit the jackpot.

If u are new to this hobby, will be better to buy fish from shop that don't use copper. I believe is more obvious to see the symptoms on the fish.

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Thanks for all the responses, I should definitely set up a quarantine tank. Just a few questions,

1. What should i do with the sponge filter and media when I don’t have any new fish?

2. The water in my main tank is chilled to 26 degrees. However since the quarantine tank will not be chilled, it is likely to be around 29-30 degrees. When it’s time to add the fish from QT to the main tank, is drip acclimation enough to prevent the shock from the difference in temperature?

3. What type of medication should i be treating the new fish with? Will there be a shock when I transfer them to the non medicated display tank?

4. How long are fish usually quarantined for? 3 weeks?


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Thanks for all the responses, I should definitely set up a quarantine tank. Just a few questions,

1. What should i do with the sponge filter and media when I don’t have any new fish?

2. The water in my main tank is chilled to 26 degrees. However since the quarantine tank will not be chilled, it is likely to be around 29-30 degrees. When it’s time to add the fish from QT to the main tank, is drip acclimation enough to prevent the shock from the difference in temperature?

3. What type of medication should i be treating the new fish with? Will there be a shock when I transfer them to the non medicated display tank?

4. How long are fish usually quarantined for? 3 weeks?


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1) Normally i will restart my QT tank after each successful or failed round. For filter sponge will throw away and replace with a new seeded one. For media, I will bleach it to ensure is clean and remove the medication within the media.

2) Drip acclimated slower if the temp different is big. U should try to aim for below 28c for ur QT tank using a fan. Sensitive fish don't really do well if the temp is too high.

3) After completed all treatment for the fish, do a water change and put carbon in to remove the medication in the tank. Observe the fish for 3 days to a week to ensure all good before proceed to move it.

4) Depend on the treatment you using, below for ur reference. Some treatment can be done concurrently but I will suggest to do it individually unless u know what can be mixed together.

- Ich (14 to 30 days chelated copper treatment at therapeutic level)

- Fluke & Internal worm (2 rounds of Prazi treament)
--- 1st round treatment 5 days
--- Take a break for 5 days
--- 2nd round treatment 5 days

- Brooknelly, Urenoma (14 days Seachem Metroplex)
--- If still not ok, do one more round

- External bacterial infection (10 days Seachem Kanaplex)

5) I prefer to set my salinity at 1.020 when I QT my fish. Less stress for them. Once treatment completed, I will bring up the salinity slowly over a week while observe the fish health.


Hope this help.
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Thanks for all the responses, I should definitely set up a quarantine tank. Just a few questions,

1. What should i do with the sponge filter and media when I don’t have any new fish?

2. The water in my main tank is chilled to 26 degrees. However since the quarantine tank will not be chilled, it is likely to be around 29-30 degrees. When it’s time to add the fish from QT to the main tank, is drip acclimation enough to prevent the shock from the difference in temperature?

3. What type of medication should i be treating the new fish with? Will there be a shock when I transfer them to the non medicated display tank?

4. How long are fish usually quarantined for? 3 weeks?


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1. You can take down your QT system once fish have gone through the treatment. Clean and throughly dry equipment throw away sponges. When time to start up again can take water from Main Display and if you keep a bag of media in your main display sump you can use this to restart your quarantine tank (so no mini cycle occurs). Suggest you discard the bio media afterwards. (So I use the cheap stuff)

2. Keeping chilled QT is a difficult without it's own chiller. Try to keep tank cool as possible 28 is max (fans, frozen bottles of rodi whatever you can). Issue is fishes metabolism is higher as temperatures increase, which can cause stress. No easy answer except try best to keep chilled. Prior to putting into MD I use a series of small frozen RODI bottles to keep temps as close as can to that of main display.

As far as placement, Suggest you place in bag and acclimate in MD. Drip will struggle to change temp but rather match room temp.

3. Meds. Good question. You can either treat specific issues or prohyliactically (I.e. as a prevention meassure). Be careful to make sure if your new fish are sensitive to any specific treatment. First suggest you dip fish even before QT to reduces any irritants. There are many fish dips. Also a 3 min rodi dip also can although some fish absolutely hate this so read up first. The main two treatments would be copper (for ich) and praziquantel (treats parasites). It is possible to mix the two treatments together but the copper will reduce prazi's effectiveness. Typically as you slowly increase your copper over time suggest you start with prazi for 24 to 72 hours (praxipro, prazigold). Then Treat copper for 15 days plus (even 30days max). If can figure out how to add in the two tank method as you go along then it will be beneficial. Beyond that there is the likes of metroplex (ich and velvet), kanaplex (fungal and bacterial) and neoplex (which is a antibiotic). Here you can use a product called focus to bind them to foods. Also methlyene blue for fungal infections is sometimes used. But with all meds be careful and cautious. Start slowly. Remember to add airstone as some meds reduce oxygen levels.

4. How long?. This really depends on treatment and success rate. But expect a minimum of 3weeks. You can do as short or as long as you like. If your Qzt has chiller then can go longer also. Some fish struggle and are more sensitive So be careful of selecting fish and Tailor trestments to suit accordingly.

Re stress. hint I use water from my main display. So if I change water in MD it goes into my QT system this way fish get used to main display ph and salinity over time.

Hope this helps


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I see, so each time i set up the QT, i should take one of the bags of coral chips from my main tank sump, then throw it away after the quarantine period?

Also, just curious if the medication is to attempt to prevent the fish from getting ich or other diseases? What will happen if i wait until the fish are showing signs of illnesses then treat them with the medication? Sorry for the newbie questions, only had my tank set up for about a week so still learning a lot. Thanks


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Yes that's the idea. Just keep a spare in the Main Display sump. Just take a small amount.

Meds... the idea is to prevent any disease entering the main display tank. We don't know what fish has (internally, in their gills or externally) so we treat as a preventative measure. This way your main display will be safe (well more safe) from a potential outbreak. It's the difference between Management and Cure. The danger is if you wait to treat when you see symptoms, it could very well be that the other fish will have it too. Worst case they die and kill all your coral in the process. Best case is you capture them all and have to treat them anyways for 70-90days (which in a non chilled tank could be hard). Personally you are heading in the right direction with a QT tank. Sadly many LFS don't quarantine. Which also means that distributors are also not pressured nor incentivised to provide disease free fish.

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32 minutes ago, ianmphua said:

I was looking at getting seachem cupramine and prazi gold. Would these 2 medications be sufficient?


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yes these two medicine would be good enough to treat most of the common dieases

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  • 11 months later...
On 9/1/2020 at 10:21 PM, loonz said:

I've pretty good experience with Sea Life Aquarium. Sam is always careful with livestock and their prices are one of the most reasonable ones around.

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I go to Sea Life and look for either Sam or Jasmine, husband and wife team. Normally will tell you which are the ones you should be getting as they have been around in their tank for sometime and eating well. New stocks they will probably tell you to avoid. They are really friendly and will advise if you ask them, especially for newbies

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