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My 1st 2 feet sump tank


Tabungrahim
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I did my test my kh drop drastically from 12 to 6 after wc from sea water . But I regular add my all for reef once a week 5 mls . Maybe need to add everyday? 5 mls .
Now I know why all my coral showing dying sign


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  • 2 weeks later...
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Is my lighting not fit for sps?


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Hi bro, think u need to check your water first.

For new tank, not advisable to add corals so fast, wwc cycle their tanks for 4 months! u really need to let your tank mature first along with your bioload to stabilize. u need consistently measure your big 3 Alk, calcium , magnesium along with nitrate phosphate to ensure the parameters are stable 1-2 months before its fit for coral, another indication is u start seeing coralline algae growing which is another indicator of system able to support coral calcification.

also advisable to invest in RODI and do ur own salt mix. keep to a regular Water change schedule like 5-10% water change weekly or biweekly and stick to it.

Next up is flow, sps need high flow but not direct bashing flow or tissue will STN RTN, aim your powerhead near the surface or use pulsing mode so its gentle on coral, if ur sps has polyp extension, its good to see the polyp moving randomly most of the time means the flow is probably just about right.

For light, sps can tahan about 300-400 par but probably depends coral to coral. you really need to use a par meter, u can probably rent from other reefers or exchange for frags for their service. need to avoid hotspots which is common for led point source pucks. too high light can cause coral bleaching. if unsure always start with lower light intensity rather than high light intensity.

Most important is to get ur water chemistry right first before u move on to check other stuffs otherwise u will be turning around in circles.

Hope got help u. i would advise u stop buying corals now and try to find out whats wrong to save some $$. corals are not cheap. Good luck!


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15 hours ago, Tabungrahim said:

How to know if sps dying? Coz it’s no more coloring more white getting....


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A picture will helps and let other reefers advise u. Like otaku reefer said, u need to let ur tank matures first and do a proper cycle before adding livestocks.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cant tell if it’s a brown-out coral or a dead coral covered in brown algae. But nonetheless I think ur nutrient levels must be high.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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