Wrasse behavior

[Otaku Reefer]

Hi all,

 

Any senior reefers can advise if wrasse scratching on sand/rock is normal behavior or sign of ich? Mine is hard to spot the ich spot cos leopard wrasse. Based on my observation dont see obvious white little spots

 

Thanks!

 

 

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[soggycookies]

most likely ich. they have more of a mucus layer and are one of the types of fish you probably won’t spot visible signs of ich on the body, but still carry it. generally fish scratching against surfaces is a sign of a host of parasites but could also be gill irritation due to water quality/other factors.


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[Otaku Reefer]

ok thanks, will start cupramine treatment, was hoping not to copper cos i read wrasse is sensitive. see how it goes fingers crossed..


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[soggycookies]

ok thanks, will start cupramine treatment, was hoping not to copper cos i read wrasse is sensitive. see how it goes fingers crossed.. 

 

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yeah wrasses are supposedly less tolerant of copper. recently i’ve given up on treating with cupramine as a reactive measure(trying to catch fish in a big system is a pain and moving also adds additional stress to a visibly infected fish)and switched to dosing polyplab medic into my main system instead.

 

Thinking of installing a proper UV steriliser too, to reduce and control parasite populations(apparently polyplab is still relatively iffy as a measure depending on the parasite population in your tank. some even call it snake oil. it doesn’t get rid of ich but it manages their numbers)

 

And adding anything whether fish, coral or even a snail or 2 or small frags in without quarantine will definitely put your tank at risk of another outbreak especially when many things are added within a short period of time.

 

 

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[Otaku Reefer]

yup i kena tank wipe b4 due to velvet, now i quarantine everything that goes in, for fish is prophylactic treatment with cupramine for min 2 weeks plus 2 weeks prazipro, corals frags and invert go into fishless QT tank for 2 weeks. I also got UV but didnt help in my case so taken down. For UV parasites control need a very low flow to kill protozoans, but low flow means its gonna take forever to turnover ur tank. so i think for UV to work u need a large size UV which is EX so u can do a slightly higher flow for quick tank turnover.

For polyplab medic i heard mix reviews for it to work must dose few times the recommended dosage and need to follow the timing... so for me i think best is still to QT lah. TTM also works but super mah fan, unsustainable i tink for sg ppl lol...


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[Indeco]

yeah wrasses are supposedly less tolerant of copper. recently i’ve given up on treating with cupramine as a reactive measure(trying to catch fish in a big system is a pain and moving also adds additional stress to a visibly infected fish)and switched to dosing polyplab medic into my main system instead.  
Thinking of installing a proper UV steriliser too, to reduce and control parasite populations(apparently polyplab is still relatively iffy as a measure depending on the parasite population in your tank. some even call it snake oil. it doesn’t get rid of ich but it manages their numbers)
 
And adding anything whether fish, coral or even a snail or 2 or small frags in without quarantine will definitely put your tank at risk of another outbreak especially when many things are added within a short period of time.
 
 
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Bro, u dose it regularly or whenever u add new fish?

Btw, medic got expiry?

[soggycookies]

Bro, u dose it regularly or whenever u add new fish?

 

Btw, medic got expiry?

usually before adding new fish or when I see a few spots on any of the existing fish. their instructions are to dose an amount relative to your tank volume twice daily for 10-20 days. their bottle is small so for bigger tanks you could probably only use it for 1 cycle of treatment. it’s essentially peroxide so while they say it’s reef safe i wouldn’t dose it directly into the DT because it will definitely irritate certain corals. won’t kill them but they might not open up for a day or 2 if they’re hit by a dissolving particle

 

from what it looks like i don’t think there’s an expiry as long as humidity over time doesn’t affect it

 

 

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[Indeco]

usually before adding new fish or when I see a few spots on any of the existing fish. their instructions are to dose an amount relative to your tank volume twice daily for 10-20 days. their bottle is small so for bigger tanks you could probably only use it for 1 cycle of treatment. it’s essentially peroxide so while they say it’s reef safe i wouldn’t dose it directly into the DT because it will definitely irritate certain corals. won’t kill them but they might not open up for a day or 2 if they’re hit by a dissolving particle
 
from what it looks like i don’t think there’s an expiry as long as humidity over time doesn’t affect it
 
 
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oh ok, so u dose it at 10am and 10pm?

I'm wonder dosing peroxide directly can get the same result or not. hahaha.

I know peroxide is proven to be able to kill velvet but whether can completely eradicate it still need further prove.

[soggycookies]

oh ok, so u dose it at 10am and 10pm? 

I'm wonder dosing peroxide directly can get the same result or not. hahaha.

 

I know peroxide is proven to be able to kill velvet but whether can completely eradicate it still need further prove.

don’t need to be exact timing, more like around when the lights are off and again before they come on.

 

hahahaha there’s no real “reef-safe cure” for ich/velvet bro. if there were it’d probably be a lot more expensive than polyplab($55-60 for a small bottle) and out of stock. medic kills them in their free-swimming stage but the problem is their cyst stage is they’re pretty damn tough. the reason why copper has to be run for a period of 2 weeks or more to be effective is cause of how hardy their cysts are that even cupramine can only get them when they’re free-swimming in the water column

 

 

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[Indeco]

don’t need to be exact timing, more like around when the lights are off and again before they come on. 
hahahaha there’s no real “reef-safe cure” for ich/velvet bro. if there were it’d probably be a lot more expensive than polyplab($55-60 for a small bottle) and out of stock. medic kills them in their free-swimming stage but the problem is their cyst stage is they’re pretty damn tough. the reason why copper has to be run for a period of 2 weeks or more to be effective is cause of how hardy their cysts are that even cupramine can only get them when they’re free-swimming in the water column
 
 
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oh ok, I thought the timing is important for dosing.

The problem with copper is that u can't ram to the theraptic level immediately so I'm hoping got other method that can replace copper to treat velvet.

I tried to source for CP in SG but none got sell.

Now I'm looking at chelated copper as it more mild compare to copper but yet to try.

[soggycookies]

oh ok, I thought the timing is important for dosing.

The problem with copper is that u can't ram to the theraptic level immediately so I'm hoping got other method that can replace copper to treat velvet.

I tried to source for CP in SG but none got sell.

Now I'm looking at chelated copper as it more mild compare to copper but yet to try.

sorry to hear you got velvet.. hyposalinity is ineffective on them too, which sucks. oh another thing that i find works very well in conjunction with polyplab dosing is feeding as generously as you can or rather as much as your fish will eat. i increased feeding from 5 spoonfuls of flakes to 10 a day, along with prawn meat and vitalis grazer daily(i only used to feed them those on alternate days). thankfully i only keep softies now hahahaha


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[Clement Chen]

7 hours ago, Indeco said:

oh ok, I thought the timing is important for dosing.

The problem with copper is that u can't ram to the theraptic level immediately so I'm hoping got other method that can replace copper to treat velvet.

I tried to source for CP in SG but none got sell.

Now I'm looking at chelated copper as it more mild compare to copper but yet to try.

For chelated copper you can try Eiho copper. It is chelated. I used it to treat my leopard wrasse for velvet. My whole tank was wiped out except my leopard. So I caught him out and treated in case he spread to the other new fishes. Go slow when treating. Few drops a day.

I also fed with dr g anti parasitic caviar while in QT. It is soaked in chloroqine phosphate. If u want u can come to my place. I can give u half bottle to try. Not all fishes will eat it though. 

[Indeco]

sorry to hear you got velvet.. hyposalinity is ineffective on them too, which sucks. oh another thing that i find works very well in conjunction with polyplab dosing is feeding as generously as you can or rather as much as your fish will eat. i increased feeding from 5 spoonfuls of flakes to 10 a day, along with prawn meat and vitalis grazer daily(i only used to feed them those on alternate days). thankfully i only keep softies now hahahaha


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Yap got it twice but luckily in QT.

Ok will try it out next time, so far I still suspect is velvet the fish already stop eating and dead the next day.

too fast for me to react...

[Indeco]

For chelated copper you can try Eiho copper. It is chelated. I used it to treat my leopard wrasse for velvet. My whole tank was wiped out except my leopard. So I caught him out and treated in case he spread to the other new fishes. Go slow when treating. Few drops a day.
I also fed with dr g anti parasitic caviar while in QT. It is soaked in chloroqine phosphate. If u want u can come to my place. I can give u half bottle to try. Not all fishes will eat it though. 

thx bro, I brought once before but no fish want to eat so I give up.

NLS got sell Ick shield powder that also CP, saw it at MY LFS before.

I'm looking at coppersafe, review like quite ok but I guess more or less is the same as EIHO copper.

[Clement Chen]

I dont think can find copper safe in sg. I tried.

[Indeco]

I dont think can find copper safe in sg. I tried.

Bro got sell, u check with thatz aquarium or u can go directly to their clementi shop.