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Chiller in/output, need to noe which way is better


hamannbmw
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from sump to tank or from sump to sump  

29 members have voted

  1. 1. from sump to tank or from sump to sump

    • from sump to tank
      7
    • from sump to sump
      6
    • from tank to tank
      4


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i prefer tank to tank, forming a close loop.... in case any failure in return pump or obstruction in exchange of water between sump and tank happens, ur tank wont get fried ;)

sump to tank is not bad either but sump to sump is somehow a big risk u can avoid....

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Hi guys,

Need to find out whether which ways do you place the in/outlet of chiller. Maybe could give some reasons for doing so too..... :lol:

Sump to tank would give a more accurate temp. due to actual liquid volume vs actual temp.

Sump to sump will be giving wrong temp. input to the chiller cos the sump compartment volume is low, thus faster to cool down and telling the chiller to stop running once the set temp is reach.

You will notice the Delta T. of the main tank and the chiller is lower for the sump to tank method as compare to the sump to sump method.

Thats the actual temp.

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Sump to tank would give a more accurate temp. due to actual liquid volume vs actual temp.

Sump to sump will be giving wrong temp. input to the chiller cos the sump compartment volume is low, thus faster to cool down and telling the chiller to stop running once the set temp is reach.

Not entirely true.

If your chiller input from 2nd compartment of sump and outlet into 3rd compartment then there will be not any "short circuit" hence sump temp will not be lower than the main tank and chiller run time will not be shorter.

For sump to tank, depending on the current flow in the tank. Remember cold water sink so if your water circulation is not sufficiently high then all the colder water will collect at the bottom of your tank and chiller run time will be very long :) For this reason my outlet of the chiller is besides my tunze so it helps to circulate the chilled water properly.

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Not entirely true.

If your chiller input from 2nd compartment of sump and outlet into 3rd compartment then there will be not any "short circuit" hence sump temp will not be lower than the main tank and chiller run time will not be shorter.

For sump to tank, depending on the current flow in the tank. Remember cold water sink so if your water circulation is not sufficiently high then all the colder water will collect at the bottom of your tank and chiller run time will be very long :) For this reason my outlet of the chiller is besides my tunze so it helps to circulate the chilled water properly.

But if you run inlet from 2nd compartment and outlet to 3rd compartment, efficency of the chiller will drop due to the heat exchange occuring in the 3rd compartment before it can be return to the main tank + heat exchange to the return pump or any other equipment inside the 3rd compartment. The delta T. will still be higher than sump to tank direct or tank to tank. The chiller run time will be longer.

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if i connect the return to Atman 1/2 hp chille rfor my 4 x 2 x 2 1/4 tank, using eheim 1262, isit too strong ???? cos i'll be keeping mainly LPS... so i dun intend to get a tunze.... but i heard it i use a strong pump for chiller , the chilling effect will be reduce ?????

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i prefer tank to tank, forming a close loop.... in case any failure in return pump or obstruction in exchange of water between sump and tank happens, ur tank wont get fried ;)

sump to tank is not bad either but sump to sump is somehow a big risk u can avoid....

so sump to tank wont get fried right ??

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My chiller is on a closed loop ie. Tank > chiller > Tank.

I can disconnect my sump for maintenance but my tank still remains chilled.

Even if my main pump fails for some reason, I still have a pump going exclusively for my chiller closed loop.

But Weileong, don't you think using the main return pump to drive your chiller is a little risky? There is a recommended pump size for feeding the chiller. Using the main return pump would mean you may be running water too quickly into the chiller. And by the time it goes thru all the cooling coils there is a substantial head loss by the time it gets back up your tank... unless you don't mind a slow returns.

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But Weileong, don't you think using the main return pump to drive your chiller is a little risky? There is a recommended pump size for feeding the chiller. Using the main return pump would mean you may be running water too quickly into the chiller. And by the time it goes thru all the cooling coils there is a substantial head loss by the time it gets back up your tank... unless you don't mind a slow returns.

Errmmm... it was recommend to use 3000 l/h flow for my chiller and that is why I switched that to my main return pump.

Before that I was driving the chiller with my 1260 which still takes water from sump and returning it to the main tank. This also drives my UV sterilizer too.

Would be using MD40 for my new chiller which will be install at the ceiling. Probably will be having a close loop with that which is a much better idea.

would there be reverse flow from the chiller pump itself if the electricity suddenly cuts itself off?

When that happens you will see that the temp drops very fast and the chiller will stop running. Encounter many times already.

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My chiller is on a closed loop ie. Tank > chiller > Tank.

I can disconnect my sump for maintenance but my tank still remains chilled.

Even if my main pump fails for some reason, I still have a pump going exclusively for my chiller closed loop.

DOes that means that the pump is connected directly under the down flow , follow by chiller den back to main tank ?

If tats the case, how do u control the flowrate from main tank to yr pump :huh: and b4 going into the chiller :huh:

sorry i was abit confused.. :huh:

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