Fish quarantine

[afrogail]

Hi...is it good or bad idea to place newly bought fishes to hospital tank with copper treatment before introducing to dp tank?

 

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[soggycookies]

Hi...is it good or bad idea to place newly bought fishes to hospital tank with copper treatment before introducing to dp tank?
 
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It’s best to quarantine every new fish to observe them and place them in half dose of copper before putting them in your main system. Reason being some fish that carry protozoan parasites like ich and velvet don’t show any signs of carrying the parasite either because they’re in the gills or they are immune/resistant to it but carry it on their bodies anyway. By having the fish in a copper-treated tank for a couple of weeks you essentially halve or even completely eliminate that issue. But that said i wouldn’t go through with the full dose of copper unless I can confirm the fish has ich or velvet.


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[afrogail]

Thanks ..great info

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[Damianiac]

i ever heard of QT few weeks ok but put in DT kana ich. hw is that so? because DT already has ich?

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[soggycookies]

i ever heard of QT few weeks ok but put in DT kana ich. hw is that so? because DT already has ich?  Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app     

 

 

 

 

Yes. Ich is not always going to show white salt-like spots on the fish’s body, especially if the fish are resistant or immune to it. But as Long as there is a host fish in the tank, there will be ich if it’s introduced into the system earlier or later on either a carrier fish and/or anything wet that has an irregular surface area for their cysts to latch onto and lay dormant like coral frags, clean-up crew etc.

 

Honestly it’s hard to completely avoid, which is why most people just adopt the “feed them well and have a stress-free environment/stable water parameters etc” policy. The fish can fight things like that off, but not so much things that are more deadly like velvet(and very similar but much more lethal).

 

Generally it’s unlikely you’ll bring in these parasites into your system via other things than infected fish though, but there’s still a chance.  Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[soggycookies]

i ever heard of QT few weeks ok but put in DT kana ich. hw is that so? because DT already has ich?

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Also to add on to my previous post, if the fish was in QT but not treated with at least 0.2mg/L of copper in the water for at least 2 weeks, it could have been that the ich was on it but didn’t infest its skin but was in its gills. And due to stress in the main DT perhaps from other fish harassing it, it lost its resistance/immunity and the parasite could spread further on the fish


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[Uask4it]

28 minutes ago, soggycookies said:

Yes. Ich is not always going to show white salt-like spots on the fish’s body, especially if the fish are resistant or immune to it. But as Long as there is a host fish in the tank, there will be ich if it’s introduced into the system earlier or later on either a carrier fish and/or anything wet that has an irregular surface area for their cysts to latch onto and lay dormant like coral frags, clean-up crew etc.

 

Honestly it’s hard to completely avoid, which is why most people just adopt the “feed them well and have a stress-free environment/stable water parameters etc” policy. The fish can fight things like that off, but not so much things that are more deadly like velvet(and very similar but much more lethal).

 

Generally it’s unlikely you’ll bring in these parasites into your system via other things than infected fish though, but there’s still a chance.  Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well said. 

[Jeebusai]

32 minutes ago, soggycookies said:

Yes. Ich is not always going to show white salt-like spots on the fish’s body, especially if the fish are resistant or immune to it. But as Long as there is a host fish in the tank, there will be ich if it’s introduced into the system earlier or later on either a carrier fish and/or anything wet that has an irregular surface area for their cysts to latch onto and lay dormant like coral frags, clean-up crew etc.

 

Honestly it’s hard to completely avoid, which is why most people just adopt the “feed them well and have a stress-free environment/stable water parameters etc” policy. The fish can fight things like that off, but not so much things that are more deadly like velvet(and very similar but much more lethal).

 

Generally it’s unlikely you’ll bring in these parasites into your system via other things than infected fish though, but there’s still a chance.  Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good info bro. Very informative. Seems like "almost" everyone in this hobby will strike "ICK" at least once in their reefing career...... 

[soggycookies]

Good info bro. Very informative. Seems like "almost" everyone in this hobby will strike "ICK" at least once in their reefing career...... 

Yes. It’s very common in the hobby though still very possible to run a completely ich-free tank. But once you kena velvet before.. you realize ich isn’t a big deal unless your system conditions are plain awful

 

 

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[Jeebusai]

Just now, soggycookies said:

Yes. It’s very common in the hobby. But once you kena velvet before.. you realize ich isn’t a big deal unless your system conditions are plain awful


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Hi bro, i have been reading about ICK vs velvet, cant really tell the difference from some bad pics. It also seems like the number 1 candidate for ICK is blue hippo tang. Basically the entire tang family? Camping here to learn!

[soggycookies]

Hi bro, i have been reading about ICK vs velvet, cant really tell the difference from some bad pics. It also seems like the number 1 candidate for ICK is blue hippo tang. Basically the entire tang family? Camping here to learn!

Some fish like tangs(yes all members, blue tangs just have that label cause their general temperament is also a bit more crazy than other tangs lol) are more susceptible to these parasites cause they lack a slime coat to fight them off.  

Also sort of explains why when a tank has ich you sometimes only see the tangs, or in this case blue/hippo/regal tangs having the worst of it. Doesn’t mean that the other fish don’t have it. Just take it as an indicator that your tank definitely has it cause it won’t be limited to a single fish. The other fish just have a better resistance/immunity to it due to their own genetic makeup.

 

As for ich vs velvet, from personal experience and extensive reading, when visible, the former is more like salt sprinkles on the fish while the latter is more of a fine sugar dusting, almost powder-like coat on the fish. If you can count the no. of spots, it’s probably ich. If they’re smaller and more numerous it’s probably velvet.

 

Also, if it’s velvet.. sometimes you’ll see the fish dead before you even see any symptoms. They can be dead in less than a day with no signs. That’s how deadly it is. On the contrary fish can develop a longstanding immunity from ich and generally are able to fight it off with good system conditions and feeding.

 

Not the same case with velvet. Usually if it’s ich and you don’t treat immediately, it’s still ok. Fish will live for months and with good conditions can fight it off and develop immunities. For velvet, if you don’t treat ASAP, it’s a death sentence more or less, very few fish even survive the initial attack let alone develop an immunity.

 

 

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[Jeebusai]

Just now, soggycookies said:

Some fish like tangs(yes all members, blue tangs just have that label cause their general temperament is also a bit more crazy than other tangs lol) are more susceptible to these parasites cause they lack a slime coat to fight them off.

Also sort of explains why when a tank has ich you sometimes only see the tangs, or in this case blue/hippo/regal tangs having the worst of it. Doesn’t mean that the other fish don’t have it. Just take it as an indicator that your tank definitely has it cause it won’t be limited to a single fish. The other fish just have a better resistance/immunity to it due to their own genetic makeup.

As for ich vs velvet, from personal experience and reading the diseases up, when visible, the former is more like salt sprinkles on the fish while the latter is more of a fine sugar dusting, almost powder-like coat on the fish. If you can count the no. of spots, it’s probably ich. If they’re smaller and more numerous it’s probably velvet.

Also, if it’s velvet.. sometimes you’ll see the fish dead before you even see any symptoms. They can be dead in less than a day with no signs. That’s how deadly it is


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Thanks for the simple yet concise explanation bro. Been reading and still don't know what the heck some other forum members (overseas forums) are talking about. Maybe my england not powderful enough! 

[soggycookies]

Thanks for the simple yet concise explanation bro. Been reading and still don't know what the heck some other forum members (overseas forums) are talking about. Maybe my england not powderful enough! 

Always happy to share knowledge especially where it helps bro. Cheers


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[Solo77]

Read more on copper. Personally, I nvr copper my fishes. 

[soggycookies]

Read more on copper. Personally, I nvr copper my fishes. 

If hyposalinity treatment worked for velvet or if chloroquine phosphate(though apparently that stuff is more toxic than even copper)and stuff like formalin were more accessible in the aquarium market here, I probably wouldn’t use copper either

 

 

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[Indeco]

Hi bros, newbie here still learning... can help me see my below QT steps got problem or not

1) Acclimate fishes using QT tank water (drip method)

2) Once acclimate completed, will put the fishes in the QT for observation (no copper or other treatment in the water)

3) During observation will provide food below to build up immunity system

- Dr.G anti parasitic fish food

- Dr.G anti bacterial fish food

- Pallet mixed with garlic

4) Check the fishes everyday, if any issue spotted immediately move to hospital tank for treatment

5) If no issue, after 2 weeks to 1 month then will move to display tank isolation box

6) Display tank will have a isolation box to allow the fish to acclimate with other fishes

7) Maybe 2 or 3 days later if no issue then will release the fishes into the community

** Thinking for control the QT salinity at 1.021 to 1.022

Please correct my steps if i'm wrong... 

[Harlequinmania]

Wow.. your QT steps are very comprehensive and good info for others to follow as well !

Except for the steps how would you treat the fish in the event of diseases occurred.

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[soggycookies]

Hi bros, newbie here still learning... can help me see my below QT steps got problem or not 1) Acclimate fishes using QT tank water (drip method) 2) Once acclimate completed, will put the fishes in the QT for observation (no copper or other treatment in the water) 3) During observation will provide food below to build up immunity system - Dr.G anti parasitic fish food

- Dr.G anti bacterial fish food

- Pallet mixed with garlic

4) Check the fishes everyday, if any issue spotted immediately move to hospital tank for treatment

5) If no issue, after 2 weeks to 1 month then will move to display tank isolation box

6) Display tank will have a isolation box to allow the fish to acclimate with other fishes

7) Maybe 2 or 3 days later if no issue then will release the fishes into the community

** Thinking for control the QT salinity at 1.021 to 1.022

Please correct my steps if i'm wrong... 

 

 

 

 

You’ve won half the battle if you are doing these things to safeguard your DT as a whole. Even without treatment/pre-emptive measures that can seem intimidating to newbies especially(like copper treatment), it’s still much safer than doing the old ‘float bag in main tank then release after 15mins’ idea of acclimation.  But yeah like he mentioned, in the case of an issue.. what are you gonna do? If you’re still worried about using copper I’d suggest using a combo of the tank transfer method(you can read up about that)praziquantel and freshwater dips. Medicated dips are more advanced but there’s plenty of information about these things online.  

Some of them sound unbelievable at first (like freshwater dips), but are actually very helpful and simple once you realize what you’re doing them for.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

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[Indeco]

8 hours ago, he said:

Wow.. your QT steps are very comprehensive and good info for others to follow as well !

Except for the steps how would you treat the fish in the event of diseases occurred.

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haha... no lah still learning... for the treatment will need advice from you guys liao...

[Indeco]

6 hours ago, soggycookies said:

You’ve won half the battle if you are doing these things to safeguard your DT as a whole. Even without treatment/pre-emptive measures that can seem intimidating to newbies especially(like copper treatment), it’s still much safer than doing the old ‘float bag in main tank then release after 15mins’ idea of acclimation.  But yeah like he mentioned, in the case of an issue.. what are you gonna do? If you’re still worried about using copper I’d suggest using a combo of the tank transfer method(you can read up about that)praziquantel and freshwater dips. Medicated dips are more advanced but there’s plenty of information about these things online.  

Some of them sound unbelievable at first (like freshwater dips), but are actually very helpful and simple once you realize what you’re doing them for.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

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Actually I don't mind using copper to "pre-treat" the fishes, the reason i never use copper is because i planning to use the same tank for QT coral. I don't have enough space to put any tank for QT coral... haha... 

The transfer method i read online before,  if i not wrong is got to do with the ick cycle so keep transfer between tank to eliminate it...

For fresh water dip i think is quite good as can instantly kill a lot of parasites but i not sure where can i find information that which kind can dip and which kind cannot and how long to dip... i scare do wrongly the fish die faster...

[soggycookies]

Actually I don't mind using copper to "pre-treat" the fishes, the reason i never use copper is because i planning to use the same tank for QT coral. I don't have enough space to put any tank for QT coral... haha...  The transfer method i read online before,  if i not wrong is got to do with the ick cycle so keep transfer between tank to eliminate it...

For fresh water dip i think is quite good as can instantly kill a lot of parasites but i not sure where can i find information that which kind can dip and which kind cannot and how long to dip... i scare do wrongly the fish die faster...

 

Fair enough. Even trace amounts of copper is a no-no for any coral or invert. There is definitely a learning curve with optimum quarantine procedures, and I can understand your worry about fish dying.

 

If you’re serious about the hobby when it comes to fish though, it’s worth learning more about proper QT, even more important if you’re keeping a reeftank with both corals and fish. If it’s a fish-only you can practically treat the whole DT with copper, but then like you said, you’ll have to worry about copper staining parts of it in the future if you plan to use it for corals as well.

 

Either way, hope all goes well for you. I’m not saying die die must use copper, I’ve seen many people with successful systems who haven’t touched copper or never QT their fish, but you can only be lucky for so Long. Once the big hit happens, expect things like entire tank crashes to happen. Don’t mean to be a downer but the most stressful part of this hobby is the beginning methinks, tho once you’ve gotten past that initial phase and understand more about why things are and not just what they are, it becomes more rewarding.

 

Just my two cents haha.

 

Or.. you could just keep buying new fishes when they die without you knowing why(and blame the LFS)

 

 

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[Indeco]

3 hours ago, soggycookies said:

Fair enough. Even trace amounts of copper is a no-no for any coral or invert. There is definitely a learning curve with optimum quarantine procedures, and I can understand your worry about fish dying.

 

If you’re serious about the hobby when it comes to fish though, it’s worth learning more about proper QT, even more important if you’re keeping a reeftank with both corals and fish. If it’s a fish-only you can practically treat the whole DT with copper, but then like you said, you’ll have to worry about copper staining parts of it in the future if you plan to use it for corals as well.

 

Either way, hope all goes well for you. I’m not saying die die must use copper, I’ve seen many people with successful systems who haven’t touched copper or never QT their fish, but you can only be lucky for so Long. Once the big hit happens, expect things like entire tank crashes to happen. Don’t mean to be a downer but the most stressful part of this hobby is the beginning methinks, tho once you’ve gotten past that initial phase and understand more about why things are and not just what they are, it becomes more rewarding.

 

Just my two cents haha.

 

Or.. you could just keep buying new fishes when they die without you knowing why(and blame the LFS)

 

 

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Yeah totally agree with it, guess I will improvise along the way...

Hope the dead of my 1st fish will not come too soon...