The chill lagoon

[Farhan]

i think madpetz sell those frag disk as well 

Tks will check it out appreciate it

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[Farhan]

This one not large frag plug is frag disk. Easier put on sand cuz my sand layer not thick.
I got mine from seasonal. But quite a few lfs have it.

tks for the info will check em out

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[sherman]

On 1/16/2018 at 1:57 AM, Full Hedge said:

I stopped using aminos and reef energy A.

Getting better colouration.

My kit kat acro (acropora abrotanoides) developing green on the tips.

Nitrates consistently 0. Phosphates <0.03

 

You mean you stop amino and reef energy A dosing and your livestock color is better?

[Full Hedge]

5 hours ago, sherman said:

You mean you stop amino and reef energy A dosing and your livestock color is better?

Yes. With 0 nitrates consistently.

 

[danialakmal97]

Yes. With 0 nitrates consistently.
 

i read that 0 nitrates is actually bad for corals, cos they dont have anything to feed off from. not sure how accurate that is


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[Komerider]

Usually about 1. Can't be zero cos nitrates r always being produced.

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[Komerider]

Sea doesn't have high nitrates so keeping low nitrates is actually more accurately representing the natural environment. Thereafter it'll depend on whether the coral can get enough ` food` from just photosynthesis. Rest of the requirements r trace elements. If dosing food actually seems better then prob the corals on hand prefer clean water.

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[Full Hedge]

1 hour ago, Komerider said:

Usually about 1. Can't be zero cos nitrates r always being produced.

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If im using a test kit with an accuracy of 0.125ppm and i read 0. My nitrate is going to be 0.125ppm at most. Granted there may be false positive especially so if it is out of the test kit range. Easy to test for a false positive. Create a diluted control with distilled water.

Can refer to my thread for a better perspective

 

[Komerider]

Yea as in it can't b 0. 0.1 is very good.

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[Full Hedge]

1 hour ago, Komerider said:

Sea doesn't have high nitrates so keeping low nitrates is actually more accurately representing the natural environment. Thereafter it'll depend on whether the coral can get enough ` food` from just photosynthesis. Rest of the requirements r trace elements. If dosing food actually seems better then prob the corals on hand prefer clean water.

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Allow me to clarify.

First.

It pays to quantify what you mean by high nitrates. 0.15ppm nitrates is considered high nitrates in research. If you read what i said in my nuisance algae thread. You will realise that nitrate sampled monthly may be zero consistently. But the value may be Flux drastically if i am sampling it hourly. 

Why? Because the aquarist feeds his tank. When you feed you are providing an influx of nutrients. 

Second. If you have read my thread on coral appreciation here

 

You will gain the perspective that a coral is not just coral. Consider the mutualistic relationship between the symbionts. Mutualism can be modelled based on cost benefit analysis. In different environment the cost-benefit trade changes.

In oligotrophic environment, the zooxanthellae nitrogen supply is controlled by the coral. Both are limited by nitrogen.

HOWEVER, zooxanthellae can uptake nitrogen from the surrounding water. In a reef aquarium where nitrogen is no longer the limiting factor, the zooxanthellae is no longer dependent on the coral host for nitrogen. This changes the mutualistic terms of trade between the coral host and zooxanthellae. It is believed that the zooxanthellae will compete with the coral host for nutrients. 

So think about it

Why is the zooxanthellae providing the coral host with 90-95% of its photosynthetic products? If you follow a cost benefit model for mutualism. It makes sense that the zooxanthellae is getting something (precious nitrogen) in return. 

 

Summary, if you read this far.

There is NOTHING wrong with ULNS. Want growth, feed corals. Simple.

Side note. There is also symbiotic cyanobacteria living with da coral. Cyanobacteria is able to fix nitrogen and provide a nitrogen source to the coral. However, nitrogen fixation is a very energetically expensive process. So without the coral heterotrophic feeding, I believe nitrogen is a limiting factor.

 

 

[Full Hedge]

21 minutes ago, Komerider said:

Yea as in it can't b 0. 0.1 is very good.

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Why not 0 or any number arbitrarily close to 0.

I think 0.1 is still nutrient enriched.

Anyway, To be very honest, I dont think it really matters with hobby level accuracy and sampling frequency.

As I have mentioned, considering that feeding is an act of disturbance. It pays more to consider disturbance rate, nitrogen input (severity of disturbance) and not just how much im exporting, but export rate.

[Full Hedge]

With respect to trace element dosing.

It pays to consider what randy holmes say. Rather than what companies are trying to sell you...

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

[Harlequinmania]

With respect to trace element dosing.
It pays to consider what randy holmes say. Rather than what companies are trying to sell you...
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

Too much trace element is not good as well which could result to excess alage growth .

However it is not possible to test those minor trace elements unless going for a icp test, so like what some mention less is better than more in a reef tank

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[Full Hedge]

2 hours ago, he said:

Too much trace element is not good as well which could result to excess alage growth .

However it is not possible to test those minor trace elements unless going for a icp test, so like what some mention less is better than more in a reef tank

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Yes. Icp testing is a great advancement for us hobbyist. But must be cautious. There are two different icp tests. One is ICP optical emission spectrometry and another is ICP mass spectrometry.

From what I know. For optical emission spectrometry some wavelengths are close and may lead to inaccuracies for some elements.

In general, trace element dosing has the risk reward ratio skewed towards the negative end. Must be very cautious especially if dosing trace element complex. 

[Full Hedge]

yucks

[Full Hedge]

A pic to start the week right

[Full Hedge]

Thinking of selling the red people eater colony and grow a monti cap, or some stubby acro.

Zoa garden getting too big, doesnt fit into the scape very well. Thinking of switching out the red ppl eater for a small rock and grow some sps, give the scape more structure.

What do you think?

[Full Hedge]

And some sps colour changes

Miss the purple. But the green on the staghorn is way nicer now. 

Mehhh :|

[Full Hedge]

About 25 days of growth

Before

After

 

Before

After

[Reef2Max]

what skimmer are you using ?

[Full Hedge]

Tunze 9004

2 hours ago, Reef2Max said:

what skimmer are you using ?

 

[Full Hedge]

From this

 

To this. The green is actly brighter irl, IP cant capture. Haiz

 

 

Green staghorn getting greener day by day.

Acro headache af...but rewarding...

[Full Hedge]

Slowly colouring

[Full Hedge]

Just a quick update. Added some nice acro

dragon acro

Huge sulawesi sunset mille with turquoise tentacles

and a very nice pink-purple and green acro.

Growth is nice and steady.

Also added a tunze ato. Feel safe knowing theres two layers of redundancy in addition to the optical sensor. Plus easy dosing of sodium bicarbonate.

I

Saw an acropora monticulosa/gemmifera at a lfs. Would love to add one if space permits. Rarely see it and although its not very colourful, is an underappreciated coral.

pet peeve is with kessil. I love kessil for the well engineered spectrum. But just cant imagine why they produce a single puck instead of multipuck fixture. Led weakness is coverage and shading. Just makes more sense to add additional pucks like radion or AI....

last pet peeve is with the acropora abrotanoides. Brown acros can be lovely. But this maricultured piece just refuses to grow. At best miniscule growth. At worst im imagining things. Really kit kat acro...

 

[soggycookies]

Awesome sps colonies you have bro. Cheers


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