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Phosphate and nitrate level reduction


lis9090
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Pods come with LR....and is in ur tank already if u got LR

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Cos my first sump compartment have sponges as mechinical filter.. so i guess most of itnwould have sucked into the sponge and protein skimmer comes after my biological filter:: so i guess also sucked in


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On ‎8‎/‎28‎/‎2017 at 5:52 PM, SubzeroLT said:

A suitably sized sulfur denitrator is very effective to reduce nitrates. The initial cycling process is troublesome unless you have an ORP meter. Generally, it tends to lower the tank pH a little because the effluent is pH about 7+

For phosphate removal, its very easily handled using rowaphos. Personally i prefer to use a reactor for it (eg. Two Little Fishies Phosban 150 reactor) so that the flow rate can be tuned up/down depending on the system phosphate levels. If done properly, the phosphate levels should reach the correct levels within a few days.

For refugium to work, you will probably need a fairly large refugium to grow cheato (eg. 50% of your sump volume). A nice example is the Triton display tank at Sims Avenue. 

ATS works but again, it needs to be suitably sized to maintain water quality. You probably need several large water changes to bring it down from 40ppm to let's say 5ppm

 

 

4 hours ago, reef tan said:

Basement corner shop at SimLimTower....waterproof type Led strip. Any reactor will do, mine is skzim recirculating one

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Thanks for sharing..

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What is the problem?.., the values you indicate are reasonable for a 4 months tank, i would say even it's pretty good, why run and start to use chemicals and out materials

Reduce a bit feeding quantities, period 10-15% water changes, and you are good to go, let nauture do his thing

If you really keen on adding something in the future, check out "special blend" from microbe-lift, it smells like shit, but it's the only product with real live bacteria, dose a bit every 1-2 weeks after water change, and it will keep your tank shiny (I am not in any way affiliated with M-L, just used their shit for 3 years).

 

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37 minutes ago, alons said:

What is the problem?.., the values you indicate are reasonable for a 4 months tank, i would say even it's pretty good, why run and start to use chemicals and out materials

Reduce a bit feeding quantities, period 10-15% water changes, and you are good to go, let nauture do his thing

If you really keen on adding something in the future, check out "special blend" from microbe-lift, it smells like shit, but it's the only product with real live bacteria, dose a bit every 1-2 weeks after water change, and it will keep your tank shiny (I am not in any way affiliated with M-L, just used their shit for 3 years).

 

Thanks for the insight.. well..i m particular cos i wish to keep corals soon.

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You should have no problems with corals, as long as you maintain a water refresh routine, not over feed and over populate with fish, and put new live stock SLOWLY, patience is the name of the game, most of the folks over-populate and do it fast, causing their biology to collapse.

Delay using chemicals, be patient instead, save your money.

 

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You should have no problems with corals, as long as you maintain a water refresh routine, not over feed and over populate with fish, and put new live stock SLOWLY, patience is the name of the game, most of the folks over-populate and do it fast, causing their biology to collapse.
Delay using chemicals, be patient instead, save your money.
 

I guess my list of life stock is alrdy overstocked right 🤣

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Wait with corals, don't add any more fish, be patient for couple of months, and you'll be OK.
Most people don't survive the first year of this hobby because they don't have the patience.
 
 

Ic.. cos i ll be taking out my 8 damsels also. Dn intend to keep damsels. Jus tangs angels goby and blennies will do and butterfly

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When you add livestock into your tank more waste is produce. This waste are nutrients and need to be export fast.

You can check your nutrient level with PO4 and NO3 test kit.

So every time you  add any livestock check your PO4 and NO3 weekly and monitor any increase.

Do not add anymore till both are stablise and within acceptable range.

 

 

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

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1 hour ago, CKS said:

ok am i the only one who is deliberately dosing NO3 into the tank? i've been struggling to keep the nutrient on a 'healthy' level.

i think i need more livestocks!

Nope I'm dosing CaNO3 too :D

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I am dosing Potassium Nitrate also

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

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