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Help on Atman Chiller needed!!!


lightningstrike
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hi fellow atman chiller users,

i wish to comfirm which is the inlet and outlet of the chiller? inlet issit the one infront or the one behind? has anyone connected a external temp thermostat controller to set the chiller to a 2 degree differential? cos wif the stated 1 degree differential, the chiller runs almost once every 20 to 30 mins. each time running abt 5 mins. Pls share ur experience on this.

:thanks:

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Bro,

there is a pic on the box to indicate the inlet and outlet, do check the box for the pic... :)

Vincent Ho

the pic on the box showing the inlet and outlet is different from the pic in the manual. exactly opposite!!!! so which to follow??? :blink:

anyone with the answers??? :thanks:

Austin the Westie: "I may be your best friend, but you are my everything".

Lightning Strike's Back!!!

Reefkeeping Is Not My Hobby, It's My Obsession.

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  • SRC Member

Hi, I think you got the previous version without the "IN" and "OUT" on the casing. On my ATMAN, it is PVC molded into the casing "IN" and "OUT". The "out" is the one nearer the front panel. The "in" is the one nearer the heat exhaust.

Frankly, I don't think it matters. :)

Comments are welcome!
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I think it matters because the sensor for the temp probe will be at the inlet side so if you connect wrongly then the temp controller will sense the temp of the water coming out of the heat exchanger and then this will lead to very frequent cut-in/out of the compressor.

Yes, That is definitely true!!! Thank you weileong for correcting me. The only down side is that the physical water reservoir (where the titanium coil is) of the ATMAN is very small (probably explains why its so cheap), when I stripped my ATMAN to inspect the innerds, I notice the probe was wired in from underneath the reservoir but of course the probe could be any where inside the reservoir. I also tried reversing the flow directions to reduce the frequent cut in and out, but experienced no difference.

So if you use a higher flow rate pump (up to 2000l/hr according to manufacturer recommendations) . . . You get the pic. :heh:

By the way weileong, do you own an ATMAN too? :)

Comments are welcome!
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hmmm..... i juz got myself an elliwell thermostat controller. when i get back home later, i m gonna strip my chiller and disable the atman temp controller and enable the elliwell one. then i can set the differential for my chiller. but am afraid i might get all mixed up with the electrical contacts. :( we will c how it goes.....

Austin the Westie: "I may be your best friend, but you are my everything".

Lightning Strike's Back!!!

Reefkeeping Is Not My Hobby, It's My Obsession.

Austin's Birthday

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Wow Lightningstrike, you beat me to it. Have you figured out what SHF is in the circuit diagram?

By the way, there is a very stiff metal contact connected to the top of the rotary compressor for earth. Before you attempt to dismantle the ATMAN's controller, disconnect it first or else you will break it. (I found out the hard way and had to solder in a replacement myself.) The way its connected actually helps to dampen the vibrations of the compressor so be careful! :)

Comments are welcome!
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Nope, I am currently using the 1.25hp Titanium by Dr chill.

I think probably the flow rate plays a big part too. Too low then the water gets too cold then it'll cut off very fast :P

weileong, assuming all things being equal, if the chiller cuts in and out too frequently, and lets say the flow rate is the cause, please advise what is the effect on the cut-in and cut-out effect if :

1. using a pump with a high flow rate ?

2. using a pump with a low flow rate ?

please let us have your advice. thanks. :thanks:

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