victorp's new tank...

[victorp]

I am posting some pictures of my new 3ft saltwater tank for your valuable suggestions and feedback. These shots were taken with an inexpensive Logitech camera ###### web-cam so please pardon that fuzziness.

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Day 2 of cycling my tank - please click here to read my tank setup (and to answer some questions I have )...

(Front View)

[victorp]

(Right View)

[victorp]

(Left View)

[victorp]

(Close-up Front View of Left)

[victorp]

(Close-up View of Right)

[victorp]

(Bottom of Tank )

[TanGo]

The stacking of the LRs not very good..

All the big pieces sitting on the sand..

Can foresee NO3 buildups..

Recommend rearrangements of rocks for better water circulation..

2cts

[hongqixian]

2 powerheads... The temperature should be quite warm, and I think that a higher temp in the day would be just as bad. I don't think you can keep much more than mushrooms with your lighting, unless the tank only has fish, so do add your actinic light a while before adding corals. However, they don't like strong flow!

Neither do most corals, in a tank that size they get blasted around easily. Open pump intakes shred soft livestock easily, so beware.

If you want to keep corals start off with cheap ones like mushroom corals. But be sure that practically none dies, (unless they were rotting before introduction) otherwise your tank is probably not suitable for other corals. Mushrooms thrive and heal rapidly in a healthy tank with good conditions. If they do well tehn you can attempt to try other slightly less hardy corals. Not to be a wet blanket, but even if mushrooms thrive, other corals may not

[wolfie]

my 2cts: haf a smaller footprint for ur base... use lesser but 'steady-er' rocks for ur bottom... there are a few (not all but juz a few) possible ideas for the formation. Either:

1. Island formation: the simplest possible aquarium layout, with a loosely assembled central mound, creas a formation that suggests a tropical isle or a patch of coral. Open perimeter space allows ample room for active fishes and glass-cleaning maintence.

2. Atoll formation: tis squascape is a simple variation on the plan abv, but wif an open sandy in the center of the rock to give the impression of a protected underwater lagoon. The design is highly adaptable with height variations adding interest to the view.

3. Single peak: requiring less rock and leaving more open water than the basic island plan, this aquascape with a high point that slopes down into the sand bed is handsome and simple to build. Essential pieces of aquarium equipment can be hidden behind the rockwork.

4. Two peaks wif channel: resembling a pair of coral islands with a pass running between them, this layout provides excellent cover for fishes, along with ample swimming space. Rounding or boulderlike pieces of rock can be difficult to use in nay of these schemes.

IMO: from where u place ur tank, I suggest either formation 1 or 2... i dunno lah... up to u... remember, dun need too much rocks @ the bottom... juz steady rocks can liao... some books suggests tt one try the arrangement outside the tank first... personally I dun do it... too leh chey... but u can try... hope it helps!

p/s: the formation info is I copy frm bk one...

[wolfie]

oh and I juz realised something abt ur PH...

perhaps u wan to put one in the centre facing the front and one at the side facing the opp. breadth. There's a thread on wave-making tt explains more abt it. Go search and read it.

and if u PH is those tt can control the output den even beta... can play ard and see the effects...

[victorp]

Thank you for your comments.

There are actually lots of caves in the LR: I used 3 big LRs on its edges and stacked the rest on top, with the aim of creating caves and at the same time stability of the top LRs (I poke various locations at the top of LR to make sure it doesn't wobble). On the left side of my tank are those small pieces of LR which I can't use on the main structure so I try to stack them to create valleys and troughs.

My sand bed substrate is more for asthetic than functionality. However, the PHs have actually sculptured the sand bed due to water currents and at some places now, the sand bed is deeper - those area where there are deeper depressions, I just simply level it up using coral chips which are a little big heavy for the current to sweep them off.

Also, I have a funny feeling that my China-made PHs are over-rated; if it is at 2000l/hr, I think my coral chips would have been swirling around in my tank.

My main concern now is to bring down the water temperature of an average of 30.5 deg C. I am exploring several low-cost possibilities such as purchasing second-hand bar fridge or the like, put a tub of water inside to cool it down to just above freezing point, use a PH in the tub with tube to make a loop through my tank, and use a digital temperature control power switch to turn on and off the PH to preset temperature range...feasible?

Even the window air-con unit is cheaper than the lowest price aquarium chiller.

[TanGo]

Check out the DIY chiller thread.. I think it's much cheaper..

As for your LR..

The bigger pieces, you can use small pieces to brace up the big pieces, so less surface contact with the sand..

2cts

[boxfish]

tango,

more contact with sand = higher nitrate??

Pls enlighten

[hotsoup]

Hi wolfie,

maybe you can post some pictures for your explaination?

[TanGo]

tango,

more contact with sand = higher nitrate??

Pls enlighten

More contact with sand, larger surface area with no contact with water flow.. stagnent water.. waste trapping..

I was like you, stacking big pieces at the bottom.. Nitrate sky rocketed after 3 mths.. then did major rearrangement.. Better now, but still have slight nitrate problems..

So I suggest you rearrange your rocks before you add in your livestock..

2cts

[newdamsel]

Hi Victor

Bet you must have gotten your stand from the fw lfs.... watch out.. in a month to come, your stand will fully turn brownish with rust~~~ I know, coz mine is the same.... everyday you will collect alot of rust flakes around the stand.... if nothing is done, your tank might come crashing down maybe in a year's time...

so i suggest you quickly go get a tin of "hammerite" paint and coat your stand with it... else you will literally have a tank crash...

regards

[dodo]

if nothing is done, your tank might come crashing down maybe in a year's time...

ND...dun frighten pple like tat lar

his stand is a wrought iron stand...wouldn't be tat bad rite?

but anyway....it is still advisesable to change(if possible)

[victorp]

Bet you must have gotten your stand from the fw lfs.... watch out.. in a month to come, your stand will fully turn brownish with rust~~~ I know, coz mine is the same.... everyday you will collect alot of rust flakes around the stand.... if nothing is done, your tank might come crashing down maybe in a year's time...

I have "polished" it with a thin layer of Singer Oil before I put the glass tank on. Also, I do wipe off water droplets with a dry cloth. Anyway, thanks for your advice; I will monitor my stand.

[newdamsel]

ND...dun frighten pple like tat lar

his stand is a wrought iron stand...wouldn't be tat bad rite?

but anyway....it is still advisesable to change(if possible)

hahaha not that i wanna be exaggerating but you should have seen the state of my wrought iron stand after 3 months, I've notice the worst part of the rust eating into the stand, its about 2mm deep... you wouldnt be able to see this unless you scrape the lose rust away. I was shocked~! Perhaps i have too many spilling accident thats why that rusting rate?? heh heh

Anyway Rust are porous and will flake off to expose internal uncorroded iron. Though your stand will not dissolve away just like that, it just takes a little weakness in the joint to have the setup tumbling. Note that these iron are center hollow and we are dealing with saltwater.

So just a point to note about it, not to ask you to throw it away, but simple steps like oiling (what victorp has done, if he dun mind doing it like every fortnight) and painting will see your stand through years.

[wedgee]

Is spray paint effective in this case? I have a spare can of dat, and wonder if it could be as effective as coated paint, if i were to spray it over a few times?

[BarraCudaTM]

spray paint dont really coat well and they will rust too

[Dinosaur]

Is spray paint effective in this case? I have a spare can of dat, and wonder if it could be as effective as coated paint, if i were to spray it over a few times?

looks scary.

Anyway my sunp over flooded a few times (sump too small)

Although my stand is coated is marine paint

I am still worried that it will rush and eventually gives way

Anyway to check as it is all enclosed up?

[TanGo]

Is spray paint effective in this case? I have a spare can of dat, and wonder if it could be as effective as coated paint, if i were to spray it over a few times?

Ask the expert!!

TanGo

[Achilles Tang]

Ask AT

That is why my stand is made of steel for max strength, sandblasted, treated with red primer, epoxy-paint coated for water-proofing, and then painted over with white paint.

[Dinosaur]

Ask AT

That is why my stand is made of steel for max strength, sandblasted, treated with red primer, epoxy-paint coated for water-proofing, and then painted over with white paint.

AT,

Any instrument that can measure the strength the steel frame

was seriously worried that mine will failed one day .....