My Slice of Nature (Part 3)

[Jeebusai]

On 05/07/2018 at 6:26 PM, SubzeroLT said:

Adding pods into the tank. Culture is not too dense though   This is from about 2 tau huey tubs.

 

Weary of rusty clothes pegs. Using plastic clips now.  

 

 

Hi bro. What pods are u adding. Always wanted a mandarin goby. Still waiting for tank to be more mature with stable pod population. 

[Jeebusai]

On 05/07/2018 at 6:47 PM, SubzeroLT said:

Someone asked about my light configuration. No change from the last update.

4 Hydra 52 HD & 3 Hydra 26 (1HD + 2 non HD brought over from my old 3ft tank). 

Tank is 5 x 2.5 x 2ft with euro & top center brace. Hope this helps.

Power man! Is it overkill? Can show pictures of ur light settings? Currently using 2 X AI 26 HD. Can’t really ramped up yet. Have algae issues when I ramp up the lights too much. Guess tank too new. 

[SubzeroLT]

I don't think its an overkill. The beauty of the Hydra is that its modular - and there is a lot of flexibility of placement. And able to bring old equipment over when you upgrade (eg. my 3 units of Hydra26 were brought over from my previous 3ft tank)

 

You can get the config files here : http://www.aquaillumination.com/file/signature/ai-signature-leonTan.aip

You can also get settings of other tank size & set up from here : http://www.aquaillumination.com/signature/

Its possible to 'preview' the settings by clicking on the timing green box to bring up the intensity dialog box.

 

I feel that light settings should not be dependent whether a tank is 'new' or not but rather about having the right light intensity/duration vs coral type & placement.

Once the light setting is roughly about right, water condition plays a bigger role in algae growth (eg. nitrage, phosphate, dosing supplements such as liquid food, amino acids or trace elements). Let's troubleshoot this. I'll reply in your thread.

[Jeebusai]

I don't think its an overkill. The beauty of the Hydra is that its modular - and there is a lot of flexibility of placement. And able to bring old equipment over when you upgrade (eg. my 3 units of Hydra26 were brought over from my previous 3ft tank)
 
You can get the config files here : http://www.aquaillumination.com/file/signature/ai-signature-leonTan.aip
You can also get settings of other tank size & set up from here : http://www.aquaillumination.com/signature/
Its possible to 'preview' the settings by clicking on the timing green box to bring up the intensity dialog box.
 

I feel that light settings should not be dependent whether a tank is 'new' or not but rather about having the right light intensity/duration vs coral type & placement.
Once the light setting is roughly about right, water condition plays a bigger role in algae growth (eg. nitrage, phosphate, dosing supplements such as liquid food, amino acids or trace elements). Let's troubleshoot this. I'll reply in your thread.

Thanks for the reply bro. I actually tried all the settings recommended on the AI website. Current light settings were “inspired” from there. As I don’t have much shade and still a greenhorn on the placement of corals. Have to trail and error. Need to thank you again for helping on my password rest for my lights. lol.

When setting my lights, was using ur advice on the estimated proportion of blues and UV. Only diff I took out the white. Realized it makes my Algae bloom.

No hurry bro. When ur free lol. Thanks


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[SubzeroLT]

On 06/07/2018 at 10:36 PM, Jeebusai said:

Hi bro. What pods are u adding. Always wanted a mandarin goby. Still waiting for tank to be more mature with stable pod population. 

Mix of rotifer + some unknown pods that came with the rotifer culture + tisbe pods (from a fellow reefer)

[JMW]

On 03/12/2017 at 11:42 PM, SubzeroLT said:

Some recent additions

Non photosynthetic gorgonian :

 

I'm told this is photosynthetic. Need ID.

 

Photosynthetic Plexaura Flexuosa

 

Spider Sponge :

 

 

 

 

Hi Leon, how is the red gorgonian with the white polyps? Managed to ID it as a photosynthetic species?

[christan1959]

Lovely pics

[Imjawy]

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[Jeebusai]

As usual, amazing pics from an amazing tank! 

[SubzeroLT]

On 14/07/2018 at 11:48 AM, JMW said:

Hi Leon, how is the red gorgonian with the white polyps? Managed to ID it as a photosynthetic species?

This one is still alive. It opens up a couple of times a day and especially after water change (maybe it senses more particles floating in the water)

 

The 2 that didn't make it is the tiger sponge & the blue polyp gorgonian

[harvin6]

Really nice macro shot.

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[SubzeroLT]

3 hours ago, harvin6 said:

Really nice macro shot.

Thanks. Think its called "Red Finger" Gorgonian. Got it from a fellow reefer.

 

17 hours ago, Jeebusai said:

As usual, amazing pics from an amazing tank! 

 

23 hours ago, Imjawy said:

 

Thanks

 

[SubzeroLT]

Having some kind of remote monitoring/trigger is quite helpful for keeping things in check when travelling. A couple of things done (most have changes from last update) :

• Web cams for general overview
• Sensor to detect ATO reservoir water level low. I'll then trigger a family member to help top it up
• Backup battery for each wavemaker. Total 3 batteries.
• Large skimmate bucket (20L) with 2 float sensors inside to sense waste water level (intermediate + high level)
• Alkatronic for close loop feedback on KH levels. KH dosing is triggered only when it drops below 7.5. Else, the CR takes care of things.
• Set up the Apex Neptune to call my mobile if critical sensors are triggered 
• Clarisea Fleece filter / roller mat

 

I made some changes to the CR & didn't have enough time to stabilize or tune it properly before my trip. This is quite risky.

Fortunately, with the Alkatronic, its possible to monitor the KH levels & remotely change the CO2 timing on the Apex while on a biz trip. For those without an Apex, various brands of wifi power plugs can be remotely controlled too.

 

Monitoring the dip in KH when lights are on. And tuning the CO2 switch- on hours for the KH catch up when lights are dimmer or off. Calcium reactor pH is running at 6.1. 

Setting the CR at higher pH but leaving it on for 24 hrs will result in higher KH swings during the entire day, so i've set mine up to run for 19hrs a day. CO2 off for a couple of hours a night.

 

 

 

 

[SubzeroLT]

Started using XL sized biopellets as a carbon source for the tank.  Ran 1/2 pack for the past 3 weeks without issues & added the rest of the packet today. No reactor needed. Just place in a place with high flow rate.

 

Nice thick skimmate

 

Halloween crab feasting on a stomatella snail.

 

[Jeebusai]

16 minutes ago, SubzeroLT said:

Started using XL sized biopellets as a carbon source for the tank.  Ran 1/2 pack for the past 3 weeks without issues & added the rest of the packet today. No reactor needed. Just place in a place with high flow rate.

 

Nice thick skimmate

 

Halloween crab feasting on a stomatella snail.

 

Hi bro, don’t need any reactors? I’m experiencing high No3. U are using hydra lights right? 

[SubzeroLT]

2 hours ago, Jeebusai said:

Hi bro, don’t need any reactors? I’m experiencing high No3. U are using hydra lights right? 

Yep. Using AI Hydra lights.

The XL sized biopellets can be used in a reactor or bag since they do not need to be fluidized. Just need high flow through it.

The regular bean sized biopellets definitely require a fluidized reactor else they will clump up. The bean sized ones will be 'more effective' than the XL per packet volume since it has more surface area.

 

How high are your nitrates? There are many school of thought & products on reducing nitrates. Below are things that worked for me: 

- Feed less to the fishes (amount & frequency).  Feed a lot less to LPS/SPS.

- Siphon sand bed during water change to get rid of detritus. More frequent water change or larger volumes

- Change your filter wool daily. Or use a roller mat system (eg. DD Clarisea) - 25 micron filter + removed from water quickly.

- Some common options :

• Option 1 : Algae Turf Scrubber. Or Chaeto reactor. Need a very large one to be effective
• Option 2 : Aggressive dosing carbon source or bacteria.  I use vodka/vinegar. Any of the following works as well : RedSea NoPox, Brightwell Aquatics Microbacter7 + BioFuel, Prodibio Biodigest + Prodibio Biotim. Must have a good skimmer to work.
• Option 3 : Biopellets as a carbon source instead of manually dosing carbon source or additive. Also must have a good skimmer to work
• Option 4 : Sulfur denitrator

 

[Nick Liu]

Simply a job seeing e setup progress. And love your electrical box u did up. Sorry abit slow. Hahaa
Love your tank setup

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[Jeebusai]

2 minutes ago, SubzeroLT said:

Yep. Using AI Hydra lights.

The XL sized biopellets can be used in a reactor or bag since they do not need to be fluidized. Just need high flow through it.

The regular bean sized biopellets definitely require a fluidized reactor else they will clump up. The bean sized ones will be 'more effective' than the XL per packet volume since it has more surface area.

 

How high are your nitrates? There are many school of thought & products on reducing nitrates. Below are things that worked for me: 

- Feed less to the fishes (amount & frequency).  Feed a lot less to LPS/SPS.

- Siphon sand bed during water change to get rid of detritus. More frequent water change or larger volumess

- Some common options :

• Option 1 : Algae Turf Scrubber. Or Chaeto reactor. Need a very large one to be effective
• Option 2 : Aggressive dosing carbon source or bacteria.  I use vodka/vinegar. Any of the following works as well : RedSea NoPox, Brightwell Aquatics Microbacter7 + BioFuel, Prodibio Biodigest + Prodibio Biotim. Must have a good skimmer to work.
• Option 3 : Biopellets as a carbon source instead of manually dosing carbon source or additive. Also must have a good skimmer to work
• Option 4 : Sulfur denitrator

 

Thanks for the informative reply as usual bro. Had a NO3 spike. Usually was 10, did test on Friday and it was 25 after WC. Got a shock.  Saw a few corals STN but can’t nail down to the new lights or new flow or higher nitrates.

Was feeding a bit more as the new fish can’t fight with the rest for food. I’m doing weekly 10-15%Wc. Weekly dosing of microbater 7. Was thinking of nopox and probio but was worried of tank crashes as mentioned by many bros. 

My refugium is too small to be effective. No space for ATS too. Need to think of a solution. Very tiring to keep doing Wc weekly after work 

[SubzeroLT]

25ppm NO3 is quite common and wont kill SPS. Just that colors will be darker.

Its unlikely that your lights are the cause - too bright will cause SPS/LPS to lighten after a few days. Prolonged low light will cause STN from the base or shaded parts but this is usually after a few weeks or months. Best way to know is to get your PAR measured. I do PAR measurement for a small fee (to cover equipment cost/transport). Can PM me if interested.

Direct flow from wavemaker will damage corals within a few days.

The easiest thing to do is to do major water change. As much as you can and as often as possible (eg. 100L every 2 days for a week). Total cost of water/salt isn't expensive in the entire scheme of things. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Nick Liu]

A short clip of the sea cucumber feeding as it moves along.
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Not much updates this week. But did get a squamosa clam from Iwarna over the weekend.

 
 

Wad clam is tis. Nice

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[Jeebusai]

9 minutes ago, SubzeroLT said:

25ppm NO3 is quite common and wont kill SPS. Just that colors will be darker.

Its unlikely that your lights are the cause - too bright will cause SPS/LPS to lighten after a few days. Prolonged low light will cause STN from the base or shaded parts but this is usually after a few weeks or months. Best way to know is to get your PAR measured. I do PAR measurement for a small fee (to cover equipment cost/transport). Can PM me if interested.

Direct flow from wavemaker will damage corals within a few days.

The easiest thing to do is to do major water change. As much as you can and as often as possible (eg. 100L every 2 days for a week). Total cost of water/salt isn't expensive in the entire scheme of things. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the advice bro. Will bear in mind the par measurement offer. Currently still in acclimating mode. 

[weizhi10]

Just back from a 2 week vacation. More or less, the tank ran on its own.
Many thanks to a fellow reefer to came in between to help check on things & to target feed the mandarin.
 
Some things that helped with the long absence. 
(1) Large waste water / skimmate bucket with float sensor

 
(2) Clarisea roller mat filter

 
(3) Alkatronic KH measurements. I did make some calcium reactor CO2 timing adjustment remotely during the trip via the Apex Neptune. Quite happy with the Alkatronic to enable a close loop measurement of the most important parameter.

 
Pleasantly surprised to find the max mini anemone split.

 
Crowded

 
Sea Cucumber's new fav spot

What's the orange thing on the right side of the sea cucumber? Looks beautiful

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[SubzeroLT]

12 hours ago, Nick Liu said:

Wad clam is tis. Nice

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That's a squamosa. From Iwarna.

 

13 hours ago, Nick Liu said:

Simply a job seeing e setup progress. And love your electrical box u did up. Sorry abit slow. Hahaa
Love your tank setup

Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
 

Thanks. Quite fearful of melted power extension plugs & power trips affecting other devices. The circuit breaker & oversized cables has been a worthwhile investment. 

[SubzeroLT]

10 hours ago, weizhi10 said:

What's the orange thing on the right side of the sea cucumber? Looks beautiful

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Those are rock flower anemones.

[SubzeroLT]

Finally cleaned the skimmer cup tonight.

 

Disgusting?

 

Its been 5 months with the Alkatronic. Used up slightly more than 1/3 of the reagent by weight so far. Looks like a bottle is going to last more than a year's usage based on 4 tests per day