Cycling and after cycle...

[victorp]

I have put about 15kg of LR and 6kg of DR (dead rock ) over a subtrate of about 1" of Natural Monterey Beach Sand (from Nature Aquarium), fine coral chips, and sand to cycle my tank (3 x 1.5 x 1.5ft) today.

I am using an Atman At-3336 external canister filter rated at 800l/hr and Sander Maxi-Skim Model 200 Protein Skimmer. Also, I am going to light up my tank with a Arcadia Marine White tube for about 10 hours - should I do that? I have a Arcadia Marine Blue Actinic as well but I don't think it is necessary to turn that on for the moment.

Should I test for ph, alkalinity, etc. during this cycling period? If they should be any creatures that pop out from the LR, which one should I catch and throw down the drain and which one to keep? So far, I have seen a very small crab (size of a normal shirt button), a very small shrimp (I think), and a bristle? worm.

From borrowed library books, they suggest I should throw in snails, etc. to start devouring the expected algae growth...suggestions?

After cycling and testing of zero NO2/3 and low NH3/4, I think I will run it for another couple of days before stocking my tank. Should I start with invertebrate or fish first, or both? Anyway, I will stock up slowly so that my tank can adapt to the new load. By then, I should be starting to slowly convert to sump ###### refugium...

[Dinosaur]

I have put about 15kg of LR and 6kg of DR (dead rock ) over a subtrate of about 1" of Natural Monterey Beach Sand (from Nature Aquarium), fine coral chips, and sand to cycle my tank (3 x 1.5 x 1.5ft) today.

I am using an Atman At-3336 external canister filter rated at 800l/hr and Sander Maxi-Skim Model 200 Protein Skimmer. Also, I am going to light up my tank with a Arcadia Marine White tube for about 10 hours - should I do that? I have a Arcadia Marine Blue Actinic as well but I don't think it is necessary to turn that on for the moment.

Should I test for ph, alkalinity, etc. during this cycling period? If they should be any creatures that pop out from the LR, which one should I catch and throw down the drain and which one to keep? So far, I have seen a very small crab (size of a normal shirt button), a very small shrimp (I think), and a bristle? worm.

From borrowed library books, they suggest I should throw in snails, etc. to start devouring the expected algae growth...suggestions?

After cycling and testing of zero NO2/3 and low NH3/4, I think I will run it for another couple of days before stocking my tank. Should I start with invertebrate or fish first, or both? Anyway, I will stock up slowly so that my tank can adapt to the new load. By then, I should be starting to slowly convert to sump ###### refugium...

Discard the crab

Keep the worms (about 90% are good)

Keep the bristle star

No harm keeping the snail (can be easily remove in the later stage)

Shrimp ……… <_< how come got shrimp ???

[TanGo]

Discard the crab

Keep the worms (about 90% are good)

Keep the bristle star

No harm keeping the snail (can be easily remove in the later stage)

Shrimp ……… how come got shrimp ???

Where got bristle star? What snail? He read from the book, say they suggest a snail in the cycling stage.. pengz

anyway, just cycle your tank first.. Dunn worry about livestock.. Have patience..

Drop in something to rot.. Like a market prawn? or buy those bacteria from LFS.. Then after your cycle over then add livestock.. Snail eat algae very fast one.. Dunn worry..

2cts

[Dinosaur]

Where got bristle star? What snail? He read from the book, say they suggest a snail in the cycling stage.. pengz

anyway, just cycle your tank first.. Dunn worry about livestock.. Have patience..

Drop in something to rot.. Like a market prawn? or buy those bacteria from LFS.. Then after your cycle over then add livestock.. Snail eat algae very fast one.. Dunn worry..

2cts

Salah Lobang .........

[clowntrigger]

well this is not entirely not true. When I bought my LR, there are alots of brittle star and also some snails. It will depend on the quality of LR that you have purchase. So there is still hope....

[victorp]

Keep the worms (about 90% are good)

Keep the bristle star

No harm keeping the snail (can be easily remove in the later stage)

Shrimp      <_<  how come got shrimp ???

I actually broke one of the worm's end when I try to pull it out with a long handle plastic tongs; the rest it slithers back into its lobang.

It looks like a shrimp but it is so small so I can't really be sure.

No snails yet. Does LFS sells them?

I also forget to mention I have a pair of Powerheads rated at 2000l/hr stuck to rear right and left just below the water level. Each is aimed at the opposite near corner (actually slightly off aiming at the sides of the aquarium. I like my future fishes to be athletes.

[victorp]

I have lots of fine to small bubbles lurking underneath the pipes and powerhead. I think it is caused by the fine bubbles escaping from my Sander Maxi-Skim Protein Skimmer. Will they go off as time passes and my water in the tank "ages".

I still have not figure out fully what is the optimal setting in terms of the amount of air going into my Sander PS. How to guage how much air is needed for the air stone and for the water returning tube. As it is, the fine bubbles are escaping at the slots where waters flows into the reaction tube - the top of the slots or bottom of the water outlet are just at water level as described in the very brief manual.

[victorp]

Yesterday evening, the water temperature was around 30.2 deg C and I think it is due to the heat generated by my Resun 2000l/hr-rated Powerheads, so I have put my left powerhead to sleep when the light goes out, is it wise? If only I can find an inexpensive chiller... I could go with fans (how much deg C can it lower?) but these fans are really expensive - I don't why manufacturers charge so much for the holder; there are so many inexpensive equipment fan available at Sim Lim Square & Tower!

[TanGo]

Yesterday evening, the water temperature was around 30.2 deg C and I think it is due to the heat generated by my Resun 2000l/hr-rated Powerheads, so I have put my left powerhead to sleep when the light goes out, is it wise? If only I can find an inexpensive chiller... I could go with fans (how much deg C can it lower?) but these fans are really expensive - I don't why manufacturers charge so much for the holder; there are so many inexpensive equipment fan available at Sim Lim Square & Tower!

Position of the tank is very important..

If you are putting it against a wall, make sure the wall is not getting the sun.. Because the wall will 'heat up' causing your tank to heat up too..

DIY a cooling fan, that's what some of the ppl here doing.. Only thing with fans is that you have to watch for the evapouration rate.. Need to add water daily..

Fan will help lower the temp by 1-2 degrees..

Hope this helps..

30 is abit high..

[boxfish]

not sure if your Sander maxi is sufficient for your tank

[victorp]

not sure if your Sander maxi is sufficient for your tank

Well, my Sander Maxi-Skim Model 200 is supposed to be for a 20cm deep and 100l tank as described on Sander's web site, but Sea Life Aquarium (SLA) says for technical reasons this Model 200 can be used on my tank. I would think Sander's Model 300 (for a 30cm deep and 150l tank) will be more suitable, but after verifying with SLA two times, I went ahead and use it.