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Ian's 8


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  • 3 months later...

Been a few months and i haven't got time to update, but here is how everything is coming along. 

Here is some technical info to get those guys into equipment a bit excited

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Got the sump working and everything in. From left to right the stuff i got,

1. Return pumps Abyzz A400 , A200

2. Vertex FR 2.5 for rowaphos

3. Vertex dosing pump. Only dosing additives / trace at the moment, after setting up my CR. 

4. Skimmer deltec sc2560

5. FR for biopellets

6. Ozone 200mg/h 

7. 40w UV 

8. Schuran jetstream 1 calcium reactor. Caribsea ARM media and ~20% grotech magnesium pro media

Also i have 7x marine pure blocks and a whole lot of bacteria king in the right compartment under the filter wool.

So far nitrates are around 0, phosphate is maintaining at around 0.02 depending on how much i feed

Side shot:

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FTS with phone camera, have moved things around a bit so i'll take another proper picture when i got time

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Still a long way more to go, in terms of stocking fish and more sps :)

 

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Beautiful tank!!

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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Changed my new light program and increased intensity, so far shows great improvement in size of my LPS and leathers at the sand bed level. I need to measure the par again to see if i can boost the levels even further. The theory of this as used by david saxby is that the peaks will allow the coral to "rest" in between, to prevent over saturation during photosynthesis... Basically it is to allow higher peak par levels without burning the corals, especially good for deeper tanks. Main lighting period is for 5 hours with 4 peaks at 1/2 hour intervals. At each peak i am running my hydra 52hd at almost full power, but it didn't burn the corals as it is just touching the peak and dropping down again. Also, with my testing with UV, i am running at approximately 70% without much harmful effect. So many theories for UV browning the corals or lightening the colours, no conclusive evidence thus far for me yet.

Here's an FTS for your monday blues 

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  • SRC Supporter

Thanks for sharing your lighting schedule. I am also trying out some new schedule with various color temperature setting , 10 k in the morning , 15 k in the afternoon thereafter 20k for viewing pleasure. So far the color seem to respond well especially the oz blue stag which see improve in coloration.

Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

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  • 5 weeks later...

Some updates for my corals

Started using
B balance daily
PIF daily
Zeospur weekly 50% dose for now

And just decided to set my lights everything including uv 100% , red green 0%. 7 hour peak , 2 hour ramp on and off

Think the Colours have improved especially the blues, probably due to the PIF

With zeospur2, the brown cast on most of the sps has lightened too ! The sunset Mille looks more yellow and the brownish cast on the purple / blue stag on my lower right side has improved slightly. Will continue to monitor. Also I think I must start adding more iron , as my ssc doesn't look so green on the base. Funny though since my cherry blossom has quite some greens on the base

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Also made a heavy duty aluminium profile cupboard / enclosure for my sump. Rust and moisture resistant, and can see everything inside like a museum exhibit

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  • SRC Member

very nice setup!! Whats the high tech looking gadget at the bottom right hand corner beside your co2 tank ?

Tank Size: 3.5 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft
Sump: 3ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft”
Return Pump: Eheim 1264
Chiller Pump: H2Ocean Flow Pump 3000
Skimmer: Vertex Alpha 200
Wavemakers: 2 X Maxspect Gyre 130; 1 x Ecotech VorTech MP10WES, 1 x Ecotech VorTech MP40WES, 1x Jebao RW15
Filtration: Schuran Multifilter 100 (Rowa Phos), Two Little Fishies Phosban 150 Fluidised Reactor (Vertex Rox 0.8 Carbon), Enductor Fluidized Reactor- FR45 (NP Biopellets & All In One Biopellets) with Eden 140 Pump, Santa Monica Hogx1 Algae Turf Scrubber, Cheato
Calcium Reactor: Skimz CM152 with needle valve and Maxijet 600 feed Pump (CaribSea ARM Extra Coarse ,KZ Coral Gravel, Two Little Fishies Reborn, Grotech Magnesium Pro)
Dosing: Bubble Magnus Dosing Pump BM-T01 + 2 x 4 Head Expansion Accessory BM-T02
Bio Media: Marine Pure, Bacteria King, Eheim Substrat Pro, Eheim Substrat, Seachem DeNitrate, PowerHouse Hard, Polyplab Biosphere, Seachem Purigen

Chiller: JBJ Arctica Titanium Aquarium Chiller (1/3 Hp - DBE-150)
Lighting: ATI Powermodule 6 x 39 Watt T5. Solite 4 x 39 Watt T5 (Only 2 used) (Blue+ Blue+ Coral+ Purple+ Coral+ AB Special) (Blue+ Purple+)
Auto Top Up system: Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 Auto Top Off
Monitoring: 2 x Milwaukee MC 122 PH Controller (Calcium Reactor & PH Monitoring)

Substrate: CaribSea Aragamax Select

 

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Sorry for multiple posts via Tapatalk. The bottom right hand is a peristaltic pump I was playing around with to feed my calcium reactor. Now I changed to a solenoid as the pump cannot keep up with the flow


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2f5ee76ccad541aa6ab1749daf431e61.jpg

Recently got a standalone solenoid for my calcium reactor. Reason for adding this: I used to run my co2 for 24 hours a day, but ph was quite low at night at around 7.6 measured in the morning before lights on. Now the co2 comes on only during lights on hours and the ph has went up by 0.1 to 7.7 at night.

The brand of the solenoid is dennerle and should be very reliable as it is actually made in Germany.

Furthermore, I can use my simple and durable tunze regulator! No need to change regulator if the solenoid fails too.

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Sorry for multiple posts via Tapatalk. The bottom right hand is a peristaltic pump I was playing around with to feed my calcium reactor. Now I changed to a solenoid as the pump cannot keep up with the flow


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Cannot find leh


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Humble tank :

Size: 4x2.5x2 ft - Display 

Equipment :

Return 1 : Ecotech marine L1

Return 2 : Ecotech marine M1

CR : Skimz CM122 - Caribsea extra course media with Grotech magnesium

Light : ATI 8x54W

 

 

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