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This is a new project I've been starting since 3 days ago. Whatever I'm going to say I hope i won't offend anybody because I've done alot research to skip the most MAJOR part of the reefing.

It's call Cycling.

Firstly I've made a thread before

IMG_6382.thumb.JPG.1687944bc06c4b2e2d64e28d4773f2797babffad1582c923f7903.thumb.j

 

This is my Previous Tank.

After A Year of studying and research, I'm showing more interest into keeping corals than keeping fish, so I decide to stop keeping angel and start to keep corals.

And This is my 5x2x2 Tank.

IMG_8427.thumb.JPG.5e56500703a7e571d1c23

This is a big experience for me. Most of you have heard me talking about hydra in the other threads. So i decide to run a test myself and use DEAD/UNCURE rock for my tank.

IMG_8439.thumb.JPG.71e729aa7b7bed12eae05

On the first day I've throw in water with salt mix, Putting uncured smelly rock and dose a bottle of bacteria. (RevoReef Startup)

I off all the lights and allow the bacteria to grow.

On the second day my ammonia become 0 and my nitrite jump high, I've put Hydra Stream 3 and on my skimmer. The next hour this happen,

IMG_8486.thumb.JPG.c83df7d8f7a9a1ebb7827

So I suck some of the water out and make a little bit water change, you know to remove nitrate.

Okay let me skip the detail.

IMG_8519.thumb.JPG.541a55d6ed8722b29ca84

Adding fish and coral on the 3rd day where ammonia, nitrite and no3 is 0.

I know this sound unrealistic but this is a test i'm running on. I will report if there's any death in my tank in this thread.

Thank you for viewing.

(Is this even a member and tank spec thread)?

Ok here are my equipments

  • Hydra Stream 3
  • Bubble Magnus C9
  • Aquazonic 8 tube with ATI Light bulb
  • Gyre xf150
  • Syndra 5000
  • Bean Animal Overflow

I will try to make this tank as simple as possible so people can read up and realize reefing isn't that hard after all. 

There's one last thing I didnt say about this tank. I shall reveal in future.

Thank you for viewing :)

ps: Will give a full detail step on how to shorten down cycling soon

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This is a new project I've been starting since 3 days ago. Whatever I'm going to say I hope i won't offend anybody because I've done alot research to skip the most MAJOR part of the reefing. It's call Cycling.

 

 

Adding fish and coral on the 3rd day where ammonia, nitrite and no3 is 0.

I know this sound unrealistic but this is a test i'm running on. I will report if there's any death in my tank in this thread.

Hi bro, no offence to you but i would like to share my opinion on your test. Reefing has a long history and until today cycling is still the most basic of reefing. Your thread title is "save shark" and yet u are risking the life of fishes just for test u are interested in. Fishes and corals are also living thing. Responsible Reefing please, you want shortcut, don't reef.

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Hi bro, no offence to you but i would like to share my opinion on your test. Reefing has a long history and until today cycling is still the most basic of reefing. Your thread title is "save shark" and yet u are risking the life of fishes just for test u are interested in. Fishes and corals are also living thing. Responsible Reefing please, you want shortcut, don't reef.

When i say skipping cycling, i didn't really mean Skipping but shortening the time to the lowest of the point. 

Things like

(Letting bacteriaking,marinepure,biohomeplus host bacteria in a pail)

(Circulate more air incase of Bacteria Bloom)

(Always make sure the tank have large Amount of Water to prevent swing)

I'm pretty sure alot people use this shortcut. 

( I put fish and coral when Parameter(ammonia,nitrite) turn 0 in a day)

so..........thank you for your opinion. This will be a big risk I'm taking. Let the result do the talking!

 

Edited by Willy Guccivera Yap
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The thing that allow me to have the courage to add livestock within this short timeframe is because of hydrapure technology

 

HYDRA_Stream3.png

Fishkeeping can be a delightful hobby, however regular maintenance can be a chore to some fish hobbyists:

cancel3.png Busy schedule of fish hobbyist (ie, working professionals, tertiary students) has led to the negligence in 
    making frequent water changes

cancel3.png Poor management of aquarium water quality affects fish's well-being. For Beginners, they may lack the 
    necessary knowledge on the importance of beneficial bacteria resulting in the deadly New Tank 
    Syndrome. (
:angry::angry::angry::angry:)

cancel3.png Possibility of unpleasant water smell caused by poor water management, spoiling your living 
    environment.


1) What is Hydro-Pure Technology?

Hydro-Pure Technology is a patented water detoxifying and depurating technology for applications in both Marine and freshwater Aquatic Hobby. It consists of two electro-plates to energize a cartridge box containing special Cata-Pure Catalyst Media to generate strong reactive Hydroxyl (OH•) radicals, which is the key to the detoxifying and depurating reactions process.
 
2) How does Hydro-Pure Technology benefit my fish keeping experience?
Hydro-Pure Technology creates safe and stable pristine “Hydro-Pure Water” similar to that of natural river 
  stream rich in micro nutrients and minerals.


- Prevention of cloudy water by the ionization of solid precipitation present in the waters.

Minimizes unpleasant smell in the water caused by the oxidization of Sulphur-based products.
 
Minimizes frequency of water change thus saving time and enjoy greater savings on your utility bills.
 
- Hydro-Pure Technology is suitable for marine and freshwater fish tanks of all sizes, all types of 
  fishes, 
plants and live corals including all levels of stocking density. It also helps in the prevention of New Tank Syndrome especially in Marine tanks application, 
perfect for any applications that requires pristine water condition of safe and stable level of Ammonia, nitrites and nitrates acceptable for aquatic life form.
 
 
It is hard to convince people that hydra is able to solve my problem of new tank syndrome.
 
 
I'm going to quote a few people that give feedback
 
"All parameters looked good, so small WC and then an angel and few inverts running around for the last week, feeding twice a day at least.
Today the ammonia and nitrites are undetectable and nitrates at just 5ppm. Bit mind boggling.
For the big tank, its a 260l with canister but im sick of that canister and its not doing a good job. That whole system is getting overhauled to a 600l system and im getting rid of the DSB. Got disturbed and was causing spikes. Then the Hydra 30 went in and helped control everything, seems to have done a good job, but often its hard to tell.
When I set up the QT after, I moved the Hydra30 across. Within 2 or 3 days the display tank, you could see the difference without the hydra in place.
Not only dealing with ammonia but converting phosphate to unusable form. I went out an got the Hydra 50"
 
 
"So we go down to the LFS & the owner basically shoved one of these onto me and said it's the best thing since sliced bread, he even claimed I could have the tank fully stocked within 48hrs... fish and coral... I nearly fell of my feet, he must be pulling my leg.. past experience dictated otherwise..."
"All levels zero except Ph 8.3"
"So far it seems to be as good as advertised, but its only 72hrs in."
dimitri from
 
http://thereefuge.com/threads/opinions-on-hydro-pure-technology-filters.10264/page-2
"I have been running one for a month I have the 40 modal which as two cata pure cartridges in them. now i have been very impressed so far I got a nitrite spike two days ago after an over feed. now i did a 50%water change thought I would have to do another one. now one day I got my nitrate down to less the 0.25. 48 hours later I could not trace any. my ammonia test for seachem does not read any ammonia. I was very unsure if this could do what they say. its seems it's has worked in my case. if you want to know more please ask nicely as with a lot of other have been very dubious about this "
 
 
 

This is one of my very research to see if am i able to start instantly after letting hydra run for a day. Because it's a Singapore product, Even it is a local brand, people wont dare to risk and try it because their system is already establish. So if you plan to start on using hydra, please use on a new tank cause i'm not holding any responsibility towards that.

And yes the parameter show on my test kit are low at 0. This thread will be my daily journal updating the fish condition and parameter.

 

 
 
hail-hydra10jpg-e3252b_765w.thumb.jpg.85
Edited by Willy Guccivera Yap
hail hydra
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  • SRC Member

Hmm interesting way and the test result seems good. I shall try it soon with my new tank, no harm if its a new technology and if it works since QH should be a reliable enough brand

Make sure to give a like/follow for Facebook & Instagram ! Chiamsreef :wub:

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It will interesting to see its performance on existing & mature tank. Btw, nice scape on ur new tank.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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Its dun sound impossible.. I did google up alot before i upgrade to my 422.. There is those ang mo cycling their tank in 1-3days.. So it may sound crazy but doesn't mean it impossible.. Mine took 9days.. But i think is even earlier but i just lazy to check the water and dun believe in the 1st place that i can shorten the cycling process.. My tank have been running for 2 weeks and everything is running fine and parameters are all in good shape.. Nice scape and good equipments..

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cb37f94094b4b857b62d77e5fe21a801.jpg

Just want to post an update on how clear the water is.

Thanks for all the comment ! The result are good ! I will take a picture of the test kit on my next test.

Some lousy micro shot

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5e7cf13fbb4bb41415ae46413c5a38b9.jpg

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Ammonia and Nitrite Still 0 with API test kit

So after curing dead rock, spamming pellet, hoping to see increase in nitrate. Finally my nitrate went up. 

This means i can start my vodka dosing project.

Although it seem that Hydra doesnt remove po4, they do remove most of the nitrate by converting them to gas in first place

I am using Nyos Testkit bought from madpetz. The reason is the color is easier to compare unlike most test kit. 

I'm sorry i've forgotten to take a picture of my calcium test. But I've done for the rest. 

Here you go.

Ps: Using tapwater with salt mix.

Nitrate

The thing about nitrate is that it's still very debatable what level is safe and what is the most recommended level. I'm trying to let it reach around 10 because I still love my lps and they do well with a little nutrient.

 

This is how the testkit look like.

Below is a chart. This chart is easier to read the color comparing to other test kit.

The below picture I'm comparing with 25ppm Range with is wrong because it's lighter

The next photo i'm comparing is 12pmm. The color is abit similar but still abit lighter so I'm assuming it's 10ppm.

 Right now the only reason my nitrate is high because I use tap water and I use uncure rock? :)

IMG_8596.thumb.JPG.0db1f2bc273af9ef78e41IMG_8597.thumb.JPG.3429a5b5017f5c57ed636

 

Phosphate

Just like the nitrate chart, po4 has its own chart.

(Sorry for the photo) Tired to rotate.

The thing I love about this test kit is because you dont really have to read the instruction manual, just by looking at the picture you know what to do.

IMG_8599.thumb.JPG.b2f46f69a7d29f94a8542IMG_8600.thumb.JPG.26b32e4b30fce899a2a1aIMG_8601.thumb.JPG.0376812f6315cd0f565beIMG_8602.thumb.JPG.578dfa29efcb281c077f1

Giving a little shake to the vial.

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Here's the result, My po4 is max out. Mainly because Hydra do not remove po4 and my rock is giving out po4. Another reason is because I'm using tap water and the range is already high. Yes i know a DI unit will help. It's on the way!

I'm going to use a product similar to Goodbye Po4 . Will update the result again after a week !

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Willy Guccivera Yap
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Magnesium

Honestly Speaking, Magnesium is like an alien language to me. Therefore for this element, I will try to follow whatever i found reading/research instead using my own experience.

Here's a view of the test kit.

IMG_8610.thumb.JPG.217a12c251f14cbb9039e

This is a table in the booklet.

IMG_8614.thumb.JPG.f5732f2a3824f7a1674a7

Like what I've been saying, you dont have to read the book to know what to do, just follow the picture ! Easy Learnability!

IMG_8612.thumb.JPG.06fc27b920602381e0b45

And now slowly add till it turns blue/gray.

IMG_8615.thumb.JPG.1b8a747d92bf973870ec9

IMG_8616.thumb.JPG.73166bbd91eca8d6bc0cb

The test Result Show 1050 which is quite low.

The issue might because corals skeleton (Used of coral chip as sand) and dead rock might be absorbing those magnesium??

The ideal magnesium for me is 1300-1500. Therefore I'm going to use some manual dosing because I feel like a scientist !

 

Untitled.thumb.png.2a68aee57837370f59eb2

Okay So I mix in a 2 dollar Daiso Cylinder. And use a air tube to slowly let it drip into my sump tank,

IMG_8618.thumb.JPG.bf41831cc24e5269b41d2

Going run a test tomorrow to see any change in magnesium!

 

Edited by Willy Guccivera Yap
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Bro, you have a nice tank!  Can tell me the difference between hydra steam 1 and 3? Just the size different or other things

 

 

I've Copy paste from the website.  

Would recommend people to use the recommendation tank size because if oversize, your water will be too clean... 

 

http://www.yihufish.com/products/product-information/of-hydra-powered-by-hydro-

EF112-114.jpg

Model  Flow Rates Suitable Tank Size Model no: 
Stream 1 300 - 2,000 L/H Tank < 1,200 L  EF112
Stream 2 800 - 3,000 L/H Tank < 2,000 L   EF113 
Stream 3 1,000 - 5,000 L/H Tank < 2,500 L  EF114

 

Suggested Applications:
Hydrastream-setup.jpg
Edited by Willy Guccivera Yap
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Add dragonet pls. Can try scooter first haha easier to train.

Haha i think it will probably mia !

Nice long awaiting Update Finally

Finally !!!

Its dun sound impossible.. I did google up alot before i upgrade to my 422.. There is those ang mo cycling their tank in 1-3days.. So it may sound crazy but doesn't mean it impossible.. Mine took 9days.. But i think is even earlier but i just lazy to check the water and dun believe in the 1st place that i can shorten the cycling process.. My tank have been running for 2 weeks and everything is running fine and parameters are all in good shape.. Nice scape and good equipments..

Yes bro, It's proven it is possible. Hope this brand(product) will live up to its reputation

It will interesting to see its performance on existing & mature tank. Btw, nice scape on ur new tank.

I've a friend that try on a establish tank. Lets hope he post the review !

Thanks :P Scaping it's the most fun thing in reefing

Hmm interesting way and the test result seems good. I shall try it soon with my new tank, no harm if its a new technology and if it works since QH should be a reliable enough brand

Post your tank thread when your tank is here :)

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So what do you think 3/1.5/1.5 tank will be using? Hmmm. Also what is the retail price?

I probably think Stream 1 will do the trick. But if you have heavy load or plan to upgrade, get stream 2.

The retail price varies. You can contact them on forum Qianhu

http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/profile/19097-qianhu/

Click Message.

Ask if they have any promotion going on too !

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