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My slice of nature


SubzeroLT
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I still have a dosing pump to set up & perhaps a carbon reactor if necessary.

I've ordered more float switches from eBay - for ATO. That should be it.

Any other suggestions?

Hi Bro,

I think that's about all the equipments you need, Do share your dosing pump set up when you can.

I have to give you two thumbs up for your diy skills. V. Impressive.

Let me know if you need more cheato.. I have some with lots of pods given by a fellow reefer.

Main Tank: 93 Gallon Cube Tank
Skimmer: Deltec SC 1455, Skimz Mini SN143
Chiller: Arctica DBA-075
Lightings: AI Hydra 52 x 02
Wavemaker: Vortech mp-40 x 02, Tunze 6020
Dosing Pump: Jebao with Grotech ABC,123 & Mag
Return Pump: Deltec H20cean 5000
Reactor: Biopellets with FR & Deltec H20cean 2000

FR: Skimz BR80

Supplements: Seachem Reef Builder, Seachem Calcium, Seachem Magnesium, Seachem Kalkwassar, Seachem Iodine

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Love how clean your sump looks :)

Bro .. If u trying to create a deep sand bed in your refuge .. I dun think it's deep enough.

Ha thanks. The electrical mess is outside the sump cabinet :erm:

Yeah, I read that proper DSB needs to be 3"-6".

I'll probably stick to the current depth for now to try things out. The refugium is quite small anyway for a DSB to be effective. And I have other forms of biological filtration anyway.

In any case, from the Caribsea Mineral Mud instructions :

  • For mud filters, empty jar into filter, then mix slightly, and add water (a "cap" of approximately 1/2 to 1 inch of live or dry aragonite sand is suggested).
  • This substrate contains marine organics, and was created to mimic coastal marine mangrove environments. It is designed to reach anaerobic conditions within an inch of the substrate/water interface. Once established, avoid disturbing the bed.

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I added a 2nd market prawn into the tank last Saturday to generate more ammonia in an attempt for the bacteria population to grow.

Its been rotting away & covered with fungus.

0B9AF182-ABF1-431E-BEE5-272EFAADB876.jpg

Tested water parameters on Monday earlier this week -> and again today

Ammonia : 0ppm -> 0ppm

Nitrite : 0.5 -> 0ppm

Nitrate : 25 -> 10ppm

Phosphate 0.25 -> 0ppm

Seems like the bacteria kit (from Prodibio) is doing a good job with the ammonia & nitrite.

And that the NPX bio pellet & Rowaphos is controlling the nitrates & phosphates.

The Prodibio instructions say to perform a 100% water change. I assume that the purpose is to remove the built up nitrates but in this case, the nitrates seem under control. Not sure if a water change is still needed.

Feedback?

Other equipment changes to neaten things up :

Went to an acrylic shop & asked if they had any scrap acrylic to sell cheap. Got this nicely cut 10mm sheet to place the reactors for a good price.

25DD5A51-C10B-4A19-9AF4-06681B55417C.jpg

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Setup almost complete. First FTS

PB081727.jpg

Installed 2 float switches on the spare slots of the probe holder

PB081720.jpg

A word of advice for those using the acrylic glue/solvent seen in the picture.

I bought a bottle from Art Friend. I think its very volatile - the moment I popped open the plastic cap, the solvent literally popped right out splashing all over the place due to the built up pressure.

C27C98AE-D18A-4EB6-8C39-A7DA44EB7CAD.jpg

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I placed the new life stock in a small plastic container placed in main display tank (to acclimatize temperature).

Just in case I forget to check on the drip, I didn't want this container to overflow & getting the LFS water into my tank - hence the mineral bottle with a fixed amount of tank water.

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Was at Pacific Reef looking for clean up crew & came across a bag with a Diamond Watchman Goby & a Candy Stripe Randalls Pistol shrimp.

They started burrowing in the back corner of the tank. Figured I should grab a couple of shots before they disappear under the rocks later on.

PB151835.jpg

Pick Bubble Tip Anemone hosting a White Spot Anemone Shrimp

PB161917.jpg

 

 

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Crocea clam from Aquarist Chamber. Placed it on the rocks so it'll receive more intense lighting.

PB161897.jpg

Open Brain

PB161889.jpg

And equipment wise, I glued some scrap acrylic to make a mount for the dosing pump.

B9BDF6A7-4398-44A6-9667-685C0AFF9F98.jpg

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Seeking some advice.

I have a bubble coral that's with me for 2 weeks.

It looks quite full when the lights are off

IMG_6843.jpg

But when the lights come on, it seems to shrivel up.

IMG_6849.jpg

Bubble is placed at the far back corner of the tank with the least flow & light.

I've seen the bubble spit out brown stuff.

Does it mean that my light levels are too high? I've now put a netting above the coral to provide additional shade to see how it progresses.

Water parameters :

  • Ammonia : 0ppm
  • Nitrite: 0ppm
  • Nitrate : 0.2ppm
  • Phosphate : <0.03
  • Mg : 1350ppm
  • Ca : 410ppm
  • KH : 8.9
  • PH : 6.4
  • SG : 1.025

Dosing regime :

  • TLF C-Balance 15ml -20ml per day
  • TLF Sea Elements 1x per week
  • Brightwell Microbacter7 : 2 drops per day
  • Brightwell ReefBio Fuel : 2.5cc per day

Lighting regime:

Maxpect Razor

- 6am - 8am : Ch A : 0, Ch B : 5%

- Lights out 8am - 3pm

- 3pm : ChA : 0%, Ch B : 5%

- 3.30pm : Ch A : 50%, Ch B : 55%

- 9.30pm : Ch A : 55%, Ch B : 65% => About 6hrs of white light

- 10pm to 12am : Ch A : 0, Ch B : 20%

- Lights out 12am - 6am

Feeding regime :

  • For Scarlet Skink cleaner shrimp & goby : Frozen market shrimp or mysis shrimp 1x per day
  • For LPS : Frozen mysis shrimp or Continum Zooblast 2-3x per week
  • For SPS : Reef Nutrition Oyster Feast 2-3x per week

Seeking inputs on the above regime.

Aside from the bubble, everything else is doing great. Here are a couple of new additions.

Red Zoanthids?

PB302117a.jpg

Acans from a fellow reefer :

PB292088.jpg

Mandarin from a fellow reefer. Enjoying the colony of tigger pods.

PB302114.jpg

FTS :

PB302190a.jpg

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Hmm.. Not sure if I'm getting it right. But the bubble coral seems to be stretching out to get light when your lights are on. Is it bigger in size when in that state then wen its in the full state?

It seems quite sparse when the lights are on. Fewer 'inflated bubbles'. I can see the 'flesh' & mouth when the lights are on.

When lights are off, there seems to be more & bigger bubbles.

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I have 2 anemones.

The green one has stuck to its crevice & has been there since.

The pink one moved 3x in the past week. Even moved to the back of the tank.

It loosened its grip today & I managed to pry it off (after seeing how Henry did it) & moved it back.

I'll need to make a deeper hole at the front of the rocks in the next days.

PB302125a.jpg

And typo in the previous post.

PH is 8.4 (not 6.4)

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It seems quite sparse when the lights are on. Fewer 'inflated bubbles'. I can see the 'flesh' & mouth when the lights are on. When lights are off, there seems to be more & bigger bubbles.
Have u try feeding it more? It having a reverse reaction. Usually less inflated bubbles and more sweeping tenacles when lights off but urs having it when lights r on. Less inflated bubbles means more sweeper tenacles searching for food, I guess it could be hungry?

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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why not get some wrasses to start? probably base on the look of your rock work, i think you are heading towards smaller fish species.

Yeah, its quite a small tank, so i'll need to choose smaller & less aggressive species. Thanks for the tip on wrasses.

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Have u try feeding it more? It having a reverse reaction. Usually less inflated bubbles and more sweeping tenacles when lights off but urs having it when lights r on. Less inflated bubbles means more sweeper tenacles searching for food, I guess it could be hungry?

Starting to feed it more starting this morning.

Normally it gets a portion of about 1/4 cube of Hikari frozen Mysis shrimp each feeding (2x a week). I thought that bubble corals are photosynthetic & don't really need to feed much. Anyway, I'm trying your suggestion :)

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Bubble coral :

I've tried a more shaded area & lower flow but the bubbles continued to look deflated.

The thing that helped was more food (thanks Admiraltian for the tip).

Fed it a market prawn over the course of a week & it seems to remain inflated all the time now. It does seem like excessive food though.

AEB3CDAE-0796-4718-A875-B4B7F214A23F.jpg

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