Setting up a new 3X1.5X1.8

[Hairul Hakim]

Hi All,

Gonna get my tank in really soon and now figuring out what equipment to have and make a list.
Need a few pointers.

I read that biopellet reduces NO3 and PO4, however, I also read that usually reefers utilize both rowaphos and biopellets...?

So does biopellet actually reduces po4 as well or negative?

I do have a 25gallon,2 footer marine tank now, which im using biosphere (just in a media bag, with chaeto in my sump),

never had nitrate issues, ( usually at 2-5ppm, salifert test kit), however, im having a lot of green hair algae, so I think my po4 is pretty high, so I do not want to have similar issues when I set up my 3 footer.

BTW, my 3 footer, gonna be a mix reef, mainly lps, and maybe a few sps (never tried keeping any before)

Do give me some feedback, be it negative or positive.

Thanks

[Hairul Hakim]

By the way, did a po4 reading as well, its 2 ( using API po4 test kit)

[mitlancer]

Biopellets and biospheres tackle NO3 not PO4.
Rowaphos tackle PO4.

[nooraqilemo]

Biopellets and biospheres tackle NO3 not PO4.

Rowaphos tackle PO4.

[Hairul Hakim]

Hmmmm so I should utilize both. I prolly read wrong that bio pellets reduces po4 as well

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[Hairul Hakim]

Yeah, considering that the middle section of my sump would be a fuge mainly for chaeto and red algae( will be trimmed at times to feed my tangs), planning to keep 1-2 tangs, yellow+another,

Will I still need a bio pellet reactor or will a fuge with chaeto be sufficient?

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[tofubox]

Biopellets reduce po4 by a very small degree. From my understanding, denitrifying bacteria uses both no3 and po4. Hence, if u have one of them low, and the other high, u get an imbalance which may take awhile for the higher component to reduce. This is why people incorporate both rowaphos and biopellets as they both reduce np3 and po4 in a good tandem.

Biopellets are good to deal with high amounts of bioload + Feeding. And also if u trying to achieve low nitrates to keep more demanding corals.

U will be fine with just a fuge + Cheato + red algae if u plan on just keeping 1 or 2 tangs.

If u feel like ur no3 is constantly too high, u can incorporate a biopellet later by slowly increasing the amount of biopellets within the reactor.

Another alternative is to stick to your fuge, and than start doing carbon dosing. I.e Vinegar and vodka dosing when ur fuge is unable to keep up with the nitrates.

[Hairul Hakim]

Oh I definitely have more livestock in mind than just 2 tangs.

Right, prolly I just start out with chaeto.

As I increase my bioload/livestock, I will then purchase a bio pellet reactor if the fuge can't keep up. Good idea.

Should rowa only be used in a reactor or will it be feasible in just a media bag?

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[ASHWIN]

Biopellets/biosphere-nitrates!

Rowa-Phosphates

[tofubox]

Well, rowa can be used both ways bro. But to obtain maximum efficiency out of it, throw it in a reactor. This increases the surface area in contact with the water. So to run a reactor or not, will depend on your budget u willing to spend and if u have the space to accommodate the extra reactor. Got money, got space, why not?

[Hairul Hakim]

Just bought rowaphos from ah beng yesterday and trying it out.

100ml in a media bag.
PO4 before rowaphos- 1

After rowaphos - 0.3

Using salifert test kit.
Hope this will work and get rid of the GHA in my sump.
Its growing ridiculously long.

[Hairul Hakim]

Tested it 4 hours after dropping in the rowaphos btw.

[Hairul Hakim]

Now, that I have made up my mind on the brand/model of the nitrate and phosphate reduction im going.
Next in question is my lightset.
Do not have the budget to spend $600-$800 for my lighting.
So now leaning towards metal halide or t5.
How do I know how much is enough?

metal halide- I can get it pretty cheap as I have a friend working in megaman and can get disc! However, how many watts/voltage is enough as I never used MH before.

t5= im guessing 4X3 feet light tubes for my 3 footer, at 2 white/2 blue tubes

Any advice?

[ReDDeviLs]

MH 150w to 250W is sufficient.

how much budget you have for lighting?

what type of corals you intend to move into?

[Hairul Hakim]

mostly lps, a couple anemones and maybe a few sps (entry level, beginner), never tried my hand on sps before.

budget for lighting most likely around $2-300 tops.

[Hairul Hakim]

Equipment I have in mind at the moment.

DT = 3 feet by 1.5feet by 1.8feet

Sump = 2 feet by 1feet by 1feet

Overflow box by skimz as tank wasn't predrilled (Bought 2nd hand tank)

Return pump = Dymax 2500 or Jebao 5000 (will be linked to chiller then to DT)

Protein Skimmer = BM Curve 5 or Reef Octopus NW-150

Chiller = HS28A 1/10hp or 2 Dymax or ANS Fans (never really have an issue with cooling, cause tank will be in room, usually at 29 deg max for my current 2 footer)

Lighting= Contemplating

Wavemaker = WP25 X2

Bio pellet reactor = JNS Omega 1 (brand of biopellet , still doing research) or Biospehere biopellet+Reef Octopus FR

PO4 reduction = Phosban reactor+phosban or Rowaphos+FR(most likely reef octopus)
Live rock= 10kgs (8 kgs dead dried rocks, balance, and 2kg live rock), to minimise hitchhikers

Substrate= no 1 Sand (dry)

Calcium supplement = Reactor or kalk dosing, unsure, still reading up

RODI unit = zero 4 stages

Sump= chaeto+red bamboo, thinking of making a small algae turf scrubber along the back, if theres free space

Any advice for the following equipment.
Been doing quite a fair bit of reading, pros and cons everywhere.

Do let me know if theres any viable replacement for any of the products.

[Hairul Hakim]

Oh ya, and also a filter sock holder+filter sock, which would be change every weekend.
WC will be done once every 2 weeks, aiming at 30litres per change( have 2 buckets ready), so that's about 12% WC every 2 weeks.

[Solo77]

For yr chiller, will suggest you go for 1/7 or 1/5. Check out the required flow rates to buy the right return. You are running on 1 return and good to pay a bit more for reliable and trust worth return. Remember flow rates dropped due to distance and elbows in your connection. Especially when you decide to go into MH. The disadv of MH is the heat. For yr budget, either you go MH or T5. Must go for second hand unless you going for those china made T5. The later question will be how many tubes and the colour combi for T5 and brand and kelvin for MH. For yr consideration.

[Solo77]

All the reactor like FR, good to get secondhand.

[tofubox]

Hey bro, seems like u been doing your homework.

Good choice of equipment bro, personally i feel everything you've chosen will work out well for the tank. I have used the Reef Octopus NW-150 before, that thing works like a beast for me, just make sure you keep the water level constant. For reactors, u can also try DD oceanic reactors, affordable and good built.

In terms of lighting, if u are going for LPS and anemone dominant, i feel the T5s will suffice. I have also seen sps tanks running just t5s alone, and they turn out great. T5s also give you more options in terms of bulb colour, and lps looks best under good t5s. If i were you, i would run t5s, supplement with par38 leds if required.

2-300 budget is gonna be quite tight in my opinion. A good quality set of t5s, lets say u run 6 bulbs, will cost about $300-$500. If getting the ATIs, can cost from 700-1000. Alternatively, u can try the china made fixtures.

[Hairul Hakim]

Hmmm now that's one thing I don't quite understand about lights. Currently at the moment, I'm just running two t5s, aquazonic brand, set me less than $70 I think. Why are some t5s so much more expensive?

Can anyone point me to a link explaining or just explain to me in layman terms?

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[Solo77]

The quality built, ballast used, wiring used, reflector, durability and reliability etc plays a part. Just like some of the lightset used at home, for euro ballast, it may take 2 yrs or more before it gives problem as compared to china made which may start giving problem after a year. So you have to weigh the pros and cons. Take for example, a euro brand wave maker which can cost 300 plus vs a china made wavemaker which cost less than 100 and of equal flow rates, u may consider going for china made as buying one euro is equivalent of buying 3 china made. However, do consider the criticality. For return pump which is core, I will not take the risk. For others non critical, I will try.

[megacue]

In my view, the differences are the ballasts, reflector and the cooling fan really seperate the expensive and the reasonable built china made. But i felt the difference dont justify the huge price difference. Probably high R&D cost.... Diy retrofit is way to go with known ballast and reflector.

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[Hairul Hakim]

So this bulb is sufficient if I go with metal halide?

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[Hairul Hakim]

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