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2X1X1 fowlr


Hairul Hakim
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No need all the fanciful things, a good skimmer, rowaphos and weekly water change is all you need. Go very slow on your live stocks and feeding else nuisance algaes will be hard to deal with for a small volume tank.

Cheers,

James

Reviving my reef tank :

Crystal glass 53" x 22" x 17" rimless (inclusive of 12"x22"x17" IOS)

Life Reef HVS3-24 with mazzei venturi

ATI Sunpower 8 x 39w T5 (4 x Blue plus, 2 x Aqua blue special, Coral plus)

ZET Light 3 x 3w LEDs moonlight

Arctica 1/3 Hp + 1/4 Hp back up

Vortech mp40w x 3 + Jebao wp25

Eheim 1264 x 3 + water blaster 5000

Vortech back up battery

TLF-150 + Rowaphos

Activated carbon

Kamoer 3 channel + CaCl2 + NaHCo3

150L Refugium with DSB, miracle mud, cheato

2ft T5 x 2 light tubes for refugium

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Just checked parameters.
Ammonia - 0

Nitrite - 0

Nitrate - 2

Using Salifert test kits.

Havent gotten po4 test kit yet..
However, I realized that I have some algae growing on my LR already.
Does that actually conclude that my po4 is high?
Any solutions?

Bioload is currently from

Yellow Tang

Royal Gramma

Yasha Goby

Skunk Cleaner
Randall's Pistol

Banded Shrimp

2 Turbo Snails

1 reef scarlet Hermit

And also realized my chaeto, seems to be turning brown and lighter shades of green, in some parts of it.
Anyone knows why is that so?


Feeding on New Life Spectrum Pellets in the morning

Frozen Mysis for evening.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • SRC Member

Added 100ml of rowa in a media bag for about a week now. Will be doing routine parameter chck this weekend and will update.
So far no casualties but yellow tang has ich, so is in QT now with copper treatment, 2 days in.

However, thinking of selling this 2 footer away as planning for a 3x1.5x1.8 :)

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Nice bro. Well if you think your bioload is too high, or u interested in getting more fishes, than upgrading will certainly help. Right now it seems reasonably stocked for a 2ft, i wont add another tang to a 2ft though.

Algae growing doesn't absolutely have to mean its your phosphates being too high. Are you using RODI water for your salt mix? If too high silicate, could attribute to algae growth too. Get a test kit for phosphates, and you can tell if thats the problem. Also, new tanks will using go through a diatom phase where u get some algae growth, this is where u need to be more diligent with your husbandry, like water changes, siphoning detritus, scrubbing the walls of your tank. New tank syndrome can last for a month or two, once everything stablised, it will eventually grow Caroline algae. Adding rowaphos in a media bag is a good idea if you don't have the room for reactors. Its still better than not doing anything about it.

If your cheato is turning brown or dying off, best to remove it bro. Its gonna release back nutrients into the water. Whats the flow and lighting like over the cheato?

In terms of corals, there really isn't any fancy equipment needed. The main idea over equipment is to control or input a certain parameter that is lacking. If you having nitrate problems than try using biopellets, if you lack the room, try probiotic dosing, like prodibio biodigest, biotim, brightwell's microbacter 7/ biofuel, Polylab Genesis/fuel. But like James mentioned, all it takes is a good skimmer, run some rowaphos and water changes to manage a 2ft tank, nothing fanciful.

 

I Love Stagsss

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Yeah, it is reasonable stocked, but with a 2 feet tank, cant really add any more fish into it, hence the idea of a 3 footer, sigh, this feeling never ever goes away anyway doesn't it... lol, I think after a year of a 3 footer, I prolly be looking at a 5 footer ;p

Yeah, already bought a sali po4 test kit. actually did a check when I placed the rowa in, 3 before rowa, 0.3 after 5 hours, I think.

Nope, not using ro/di atm for my tops up, or even the initial mix.

Only a bit of my chaeot are dying off, and those has been removed. My chaeto gets light about 12-14 hours a day. Its only when I leave for work that I turn it off.

Im using a dymax 1800 liter/hour for my return, so that's the only flow in my sump/refugium.

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Can I just get some inputs from fellow reefers as to whats the turnover rate for a sump flow should be?

From what I read, ultimately we want 5-9X the Display tank water volume?

Or is it overall water volume?

What turnover do u guys usually use?

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Depending on what you intend to keep at the end of the day. A good turnover rate will ensure water will go through the "cleaning process" faster. I suggest getting a Eheim 1262-1264 (3400-4500l/h) as your main return pump for your new 3ft tank for reliability and Jebao wp25 (8000l/h) x 2 for your internal tank circulation. That will give you a good turnover rate of >50x for most of the demanding corals. For my tank I ran 120x turnover rate.

Cheers,

James

Reviving my reef tank :

Crystal glass 53" x 22" x 17" rimless (inclusive of 12"x22"x17" IOS)

Life Reef HVS3-24 with mazzei venturi

ATI Sunpower 8 x 39w T5 (4 x Blue plus, 2 x Aqua blue special, Coral plus)

ZET Light 3 x 3w LEDs moonlight

Arctica 1/3 Hp + 1/4 Hp back up

Vortech mp40w x 3 + Jebao wp25

Eheim 1264 x 3 + water blaster 5000

Vortech back up battery

TLF-150 + Rowaphos

Activated carbon

Kamoer 3 channel + CaCl2 + NaHCo3

150L Refugium with DSB, miracle mud, cheato

2ft T5 x 2 light tubes for refugium

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