Ken_ng Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Dear reefers Is there a specific method on how to cure or acclimatize corals? Do we need to do the same as we do for the live stocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Corals also need to acclimatize meh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member solasido Posted January 30, 2014 SRC Member Share Posted January 30, 2014 Need to acclimatise and quarantine same as normal live stock for a quick one but still with some risk is to dip into coral rx I normally mixed 50% tank water 50% water from LFS and let the coral stay for 1 hour before mixing some more tank water again and move it to the display tank the ideal one is to use dripping method if we skip quarantine, got risk of pests like monti eating nudi, acro eating flat worm, other short of hitch hikers Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member solasido Posted January 30, 2014 SRC Member Share Posted January 30, 2014 without acclimatisation the risk is that the coral will die especiallying if the water parameters between tank and LFS differ a lot. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member ASHWIN Posted January 30, 2014 SRC Member Share Posted January 30, 2014 put The Bag in Your Sump..To let Yourmaintank water Be same with The Temp in the bag..You can use Two methods by drip or pouring..Dripping is Basicly Drips of water from your maintank to the bag very slowly over a period of time corals get used to Temp,KH,SG And PH..Pouring is you could just pour some tank water..into the bag..Note Never Let LFS Water Into your sump Quote 300Gallons of Pure Goodness! >Dimensions 6x2x2 (Foot) 1: Maxspect 160 Watt qty-2 2: Vortech MP 40 Wes 3:Jaebao WP40 qty-2 3: Skimz Becket Skimmer/ Ehiem 1260 4: Dymax XC 900 Calcium Reactor 5: American Pinpoint PH Controller 6: Iwaki MD 55 And MD 70 (Return) 7: Hydra Aquatics FR45 Reactor 8:Hailea 10HP Chiller R2R forum->>>http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/photography-forum/154896-ashwins-reefing-photography.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member ASHWIN Posted January 30, 2014 SRC Member Share Posted January 30, 2014 Corals also need to acclimatize meh? yes bro corals too..You see LFS might Have Different SG,KH etc levels so for your coral to get used to your water you need to acclimate.. Quote 300Gallons of Pure Goodness! >Dimensions 6x2x2 (Foot) 1: Maxspect 160 Watt qty-2 2: Vortech MP 40 Wes 3:Jaebao WP40 qty-2 3: Skimz Becket Skimmer/ Ehiem 1260 4: Dymax XC 900 Calcium Reactor 5: American Pinpoint PH Controller 6: Iwaki MD 55 And MD 70 (Return) 7: Hydra Aquatics FR45 Reactor 8:Hailea 10HP Chiller R2R forum->>>http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/photography-forum/154896-ashwins-reefing-photography.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member clownfish_forever Posted January 31, 2014 SRC Member Share Posted January 31, 2014 No point spending money and anyhow throw into tank to see them die. A proper drip acclimitation rewards you with higher survival rate. And honestly it is not too much of hassle, easy to setup Quote Regards,JeffAquarium: 48" x 18" x 24" tank with 24" x 15" x 15" sump (approx. 150 gallons)Equipment: Maxspect Razor 320W, Vortech MP40, Vertex Omega 180i, Eheim 1262 return pump, Hailea HS 66A, Bacteria KingFish and coral food: Henry's Reefgourmet pellets, Preis coral energizer, Kent Marine PhytoPlex, Brightwell Reef Snow, Two-Little Fishies Marine SnowDosage: Triton Elements Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member brojj Posted January 31, 2014 SRC Member Share Posted January 31, 2014 For my case, only SPS (i find them to be more fragile) i will first put them into a container with the water they come with. I leave in the sump (without lights) for half an hour. Then i take out, pour away 10% of the water in the container and replace with 10% of my tank water, then put back into the sump water for another 15 -20min. I will repeat the above whole procedure for another 5 times. Before put into the tank, i will ensure only 2 T5 tubes will be operational, regardless whether the lights are already on or not. The other 4 tubes off for at least another 2 days. The T5 lightset, i will raise another 6 inches, then i will drip ultra fauna pest treatment, following the procedures stated on the bottle, also depend on species. Then i will introduce them into the tank. Over the next few weeks, after one week after the new sps are stable, i will slowly lower my lightset slowly, monitoring their reactions. I have achieved 95% success. The other 5%, depends on stability of tank parameters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member brojj Posted January 31, 2014 SRC Member Share Posted January 31, 2014 It seems to be very troublesome but the corals will appreciate the steps you have taken to reduce their stress and reward u with the colors & growth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kraken Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 dun forget about acclimation for lights, depending on the original lighting the coral came from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_ng Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Wow.. Thank you everyone for the great tips! I have been practicing the drip method for freshwater but was not sure if marine was the same.. Now I know.. Marine is not only different but way more complicated as well! Haha Many thank all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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