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Acclimatising corals


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  • SRC Member

Need to acclimatise and quarantine

same as normal live stock

for a quick one but still with some risk is to dip into coral rx

I normally mixed 50% tank water 50% water from LFS and let the coral stay for 1 hour before mixing some more tank water again and move it to the display tank

the ideal one is to use dripping method

if we skip quarantine, got risk of pests like monti eating nudi, acro eating flat worm, other short of hitch hikers

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put The Bag in Your Sump..To let Yourmaintank water Be same with The Temp in the bag..You can use Two methods by drip or pouring..Dripping is Basicly Drips of water from your maintank to the bag very slowly over a period of time corals get used to Temp,KH,SG And PH..Pouring is you could just pour some tank water..into the bag..Note Never Let LFS Water Into your sump

300Gallons of Pure Goodness! >Dimensions 6x2x2 (Foot)

1: Maxspect 160 Watt qty-2

2: Vortech MP 40 Wes

3:Jaebao WP40 qty-2

3: Skimz Becket Skimmer/ Ehiem 1260

4: Dymax XC 900 Calcium Reactor

5: American Pinpoint PH Controller

6: Iwaki MD 55 And MD 70 (Return)

7: Hydra Aquatics FR45 Reactor

8:Hailea 10HP Chiller

R2R forum->>>http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/photography-forum/154896-ashwins-reefing-photography.html

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Corals also need to acclimatize meh?

yes bro corals too..You see LFS might Have Different SG,KH etc levels so for your coral to get used to your water you need to acclimate..:)

300Gallons of Pure Goodness! >Dimensions 6x2x2 (Foot)

1: Maxspect 160 Watt qty-2

2: Vortech MP 40 Wes

3:Jaebao WP40 qty-2

3: Skimz Becket Skimmer/ Ehiem 1260

4: Dymax XC 900 Calcium Reactor

5: American Pinpoint PH Controller

6: Iwaki MD 55 And MD 70 (Return)

7: Hydra Aquatics FR45 Reactor

8:Hailea 10HP Chiller

R2R forum->>>http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/photography-forum/154896-ashwins-reefing-photography.html

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No point spending money and anyhow throw into tank to see them die. A proper drip acclimitation rewards you with higher survival rate. And honestly it is not too much of hassle, easy to setup :)

Regards,
Jeff

Aquarium: 48" x 18" x 24" tank with 24" x 15" x 15" sump (approx. 150 gallons)
Equipment: Maxspect Razor 320W, Vortech MP40, Vertex Omega 180i, Eheim 1262 return pump, Hailea HS 66A, Bacteria King
Fish and coral food: Henry's Reefgourmet pellets, Preis coral energizer, Kent Marine PhytoPlex, Brightwell Reef Snow, Two-Little Fishies Marine Snow
Dosage: Triton Elements

IMG_0562small.jpg

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For my case, only SPS (i find them to be more fragile) i will first put them into a container with the water they come with. I leave in the sump (without lights) for half an hour. Then i take out, pour away 10% of the water in the container and replace with 10% of my tank water, then put back into the sump water for another 15 -20min. I will repeat the above whole procedure for another 5 times. Before put into the tank, i will ensure only 2 T5 tubes will be operational, regardless whether the lights are already on or not. The other 4 tubes off for at least another 2 days. The T5 lightset, i will raise another 6 inches, then i will drip ultra fauna pest treatment, following the procedures stated on the bottle, also depend on species. Then i will introduce them into the tank. Over the next few weeks, after one week after the new sps are stable, i will slowly lower my lightset slowly, monitoring their reactions. I have achieved 95% success. The other 5%, depends on stability of tank parameters.

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Wow.. Thank you everyone for the great tips!

I have been practicing the drip method for freshwater but was not sure if marine was the same..

Now I know.. Marine is not only different but way more complicated as well! Haha

Many thank all!

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