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Update:

I have mounted my Zetlight LED. Just waiting for the hanging kit to be shipped in before I can hang it. In the meantime, its just sitting on the top of the tank. Anyway, its equally fabulous.

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_00722.jpg.html'>DSC_00722.jpg

A top-down shot that I attempted while feeding just now.

Over the weekend, I have added a few pioneer livestock, the more prominent ones are the 2x green banded gobies which I bought. They are slowly accepting frozen mysis. I have also added 2x Stenopus tenuirostris which I have been unable to locate ever since I introduced them :heh:

Also trying my hands at a hammer coral, which can also serve as a host for the various shrimps which I will intend to add later on.

But the one thing that is very irritating is that the grade 0 sand which I'm using is constantly been disturbed by my tunze nanostream. If there was a choice, I wouldn't might doing a switch to live sand but its crazy work to siphon all of it out.

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_0076.jpg.html'>DSC_0076.jpg

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  • Senior Reefer
as for the stenopus, try looking after lights go off. stenopus are very shy and take super long to get used to brightly lit tanks. in my old tank i had a S. scutellatus that i only ever saw a few minutes each day under its cave.
right now i have S. cyanoscelis and S. zanzibaricus in my display but as usual, when lights go off they crawl all over looking for food. in my refugium i have S. tenuirostris and likewise, only after lights off does it appear.
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nice scape with the rocks! grade 0 is nice but thats the headache!

Gotta thank you for the rocks. Luckily it was right time at the right place! Love those tubeworms and the porosity of the rocks.

oh trust me i have given up fighting this losing battle with sand and wavemaker.

my tank currently has a bare zone at the corner. mentioned before, love the scape, and love the top down.

If you've actually noticed, I inverted the large piece on the right upright instead. Doing so opens up more area for fish/inverts to maneuver, something which makes viewing more interesting.

as for the stenopus, try looking after lights go off. stenopus are very shy and take super long to get used to brightly lit tanks. in my old tank i had a S. scutellatus that i only ever saw a few minutes each day under its cave.
right now i have S. cyanoscelis and S. zanzibaricus in my display but as usual, when lights go off they crawl all over looking for food. in my refugium i have S. tenuirostris and likewise, only after lights off does it appear.

I found that zanzibaricus are the more docile of the lot and they stay small. Their purple head also makes it more appealing as you don't usually find many reefsafe crustaceans which are reef-safe. Keeping my fingers crossed to spotted them one day.

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Update:

Skimmer just went crazy yesterday night, currently still overflowing, and so I removed the collection cup.

It was due to a rise in the sump water level. I was switching out to a new filter sock while washing the old one. I didn't switch off the return pump and only realized the skimmer was overflowing when I finished changing it. I have already tuned it but its taking quite a long time to take effect.

Any JnS users out there can advise on the fastest way to tune the skimmer?

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Thanks Dom!

I'm glad I chose this tank maker!

Your previous tanks are an inspiration for me. Such a pity that I got my tank only after your decom sales, otherwise I would've hope to adopt some of your livestocks!

I am glad I choose them as well because their piping work are so sleek. Absolutely in love with +GF+

Not inspiration bro, I am also learning and guilty of many newbie errors one of which is having high nutrient level due to excessive livestocks. Ask Goudian :blush: , because I am such a fish person.

Should have let me know what you wanted and I will hold them for you till your tank is ready (i have a fish nanny :ph34r: ). Always prefer to pass my fishes to someone I know rather than a stranger.



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I am glad I choose them as well because their piping work are so sleek. Absolutely in love with +GF+

Not inspiration bro, I am also learning and guilty of many newbie errors one of which is having high nutrient level due to excessive livestocks. Ask Goudian :blush: , because I am such a fish person.

Should have let me know what you wanted and I will hold them for you till your tank is ready (i have a fish nanny :ph34r: ). Always prefer to pass my fishes to someone I know rather than a stranger.

Its okay!

Everyone is guilty of having excessive livestocks! hahaha

I was eyeing that rusty flame pair of yours initially but I guess its always better to have a actual dimension of the tank before making a decision to get the livestocks, thats why I withheld.

Anyway, its also good as I would like to try pairing up 2 potter's angel for this setup but I'll need the help of sexing them from the gurus :)

I saw that you are using Fluval Sea as well. How do you find it?

So far, i find mine super quiet so long it doesn't rub against any surface.

This is actually my first time using a return pump and the reason for Fluval Sea was due to its Askoll motor block, blah blah blah. (the list could go on and on, just like how the opposite sex would go for branded handbags :upsidedown: )

Yes, and its really quiet. So far, its been doing its job for a return pump.

I wanted to run it dry at first but was warned of the potential air lock issues. Moreover, the footprint of my setup is small to begin with and running it dry would take up much invaluable space.

What did you mean by it rubbing against any surfaces?

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Some pictures of the GBG after a feast of mysis. 1 cube of mysis is too much for these guys :look:

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_00723.jpg.html'>DSC_00723.jpg

You can actually see the bulge in the tummy

The other one is too difficult to photograph, she(?) just keeps sticking to the overflow as if chasing for some unknown in the overflow.

And a hammer which I bought for the intention of housing some Periclimenes shrimps. I'm going "anemone-less" at the moment. (for all I know, I might just grab a S.tapetum the next time I go LCK)

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_00743.jpg.html'>DSC_00743.jpg

Some uncommon CUC, featuring margarita snails.

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_00772.jpg.html'>DSC_00772.jpg

I have chanced upon some literature that they are actually coldwater species. I hope they've been acclimatised long enough as these we from the previous shipment a month back!

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Its okay!

Everyone is guilty of having excessive livestocks! hahaha

I was eyeing that rusty flame pair of yours initially but I guess its always better to have a actual dimension of the tank before making a decision to get the livestocks, thats why I withheld.

Anyway, its also good as I would like to try pairing up 2 potter's angel for this setup but I'll need the help of sexing them from the gurus :)

This is actually my first time using a return pump and the reason for Fluval Sea was due to its Askoll motor block, blah blah blah. (the list could go on and on, just like how the opposite sex would go for branded handbags :upsidedown: )

Yes, and its really quiet. So far, its been doing its job for a return pump.

I wanted to run it dry at first but was warned of the potential air lock issues. Moreover, the footprint of my setup is small to begin with and running it dry would take up much invaluable space.

What did you mean by it rubbing against any surfaces?

Simple guideline for dwarf angel sexing is always get pair with a distinct size difference and you should have a higher chance. Understand that male potter tends to have more blues while female more brown.

My Fluval is run out sump thus sometimes the pump vibration may brush against surface of the sump causing a humming sound. Other than that, its perfect. The air lock issues are actually caused by the piping works and mine was resolved on the spot and no issue so far despite me turning off the pump for a long time.



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Simple guideline for dwarf angel sexing is always get pair with a distinct size difference and you should have a higher chance. Understand that male potter tends to have more blues while female more brown.

My Fluval is run out sump thus sometimes the pump vibration may brush against surface of the sump causing a humming sound. Other than that, its perfect. The air lock issues are actually caused by the piping works and mine was resolved on the spot and no issue so far despite me turning off the pump for a long time.

In my personal experience, all high flow pumps will have a potential of air-lock if not installed properly. As mentioned by DA, the contributing factors is on the piping works.

I have ran Iwaki MX70 to MD55, to Ocean Runner 6500 to Eheim 1262 to Waveline 10k to Diablo 10.5k for my return. Same set up but different pumps and all of them, needs minor twitching to get the pump running optimal.

Beside air-lock another challenge is micro bubbles due to cavitation. This, I feel is also another problem that is often misdiagnosed.

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Nutrients Overload! Diatoms on the sandbed and tank walls, hair algae growing over all tank walls and some of the rocks, bubble algae starting to appear on the rocks. This must've been due to my feeding of 1 cube of mysis every alternate day!

Tested the parameters yesterday night and they are as follows:

Salinity: 1.022

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nitrate: 5ppm

pH: 8.5

kH: 7.0 dkH

Calcium: 360ppm

Magnesium: 1180ppm

I haven't gotten a phospate test kit as yet, however, I'm thinking that its the frozen food which is causing the phospate levels to spike thus causing the algae to grow. I'm wondering if there is a saturation point for the algae growth, by reducing my feedings at this point of time since I don't have much fish that requires heavy feedings.

The level of nitrogenous waste product are being kept in controlled at this point of time too and I don't feel the need to worry about these 3 parameters. However, its the big 3 that I'm currently worried about.

IMO, its the SG that is causing the lower Ca and Mg levels. I've been trying to raise the SG by changing water every week and replacing it with a saltwater with SG 1.024. However, this is going to be slow as I'm only changing about 5% of the water each time round. I'm skeptical about directly adding saltmix to the sump right now as it will cause some fluctuations which will affect the organisms. Maybe someone can chime in with regards to this issue.

I'm also thinking of dripping kalk once I have adjusted to the ideal SG and Ca levels so as to maintain. Currently, I only have a favia and hammer coral and I don't think they are huge consumers of the Ca. But I'm thinking of going to automatic dosing in the near future, maybe after I see the effects of kalk,

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In my personal experience, all high flow pumps will have a potential of air-lock if not installed properly. As mentioned by DA, the contributing factors is on the piping works.

I have ran Iwaki MX70 to MD55, to Ocean Runner 6500 to Eheim 1262 to Waveline 10k to Diablo 10.5k for my return. Same set up but different pumps and all of them, needs minor twitching to get the pump running optimal.

Beside air-lock another challenge is micro bubbles due to cavitation. This, I feel is also another problem that is often misdiagnosed.

Cavitation....a new term to me!

Thanks Gouldian for the advice! Really increasing my knowledge on pipings and pumps after I got into this hobby!

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In other news,

My overflow has claimed its first victim!

Just bought 2x P.holthusi from Henry yesterday but I found 1 living in the overflow this morning!

Should I wait for it to be flushed down the sump or should I fish it out?

I face some difficulty fishing it out due to the location of my overflow

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Cavitation....a new term to me!

Thanks Gouldian for the advice! Really increasing my knowledge on pipings and pumps after I got into this hobby!

Hehe, cavitation is commonly used in marine engineering since propellers generate bubbles.

A improperly sited pump will also create cavitation, I have recently mounted a small pump with the impeller faced down instead of horizontal and with that I get lots of micro-bubbles even though the pump in fully submerged.

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Nutrients Overload! Diatoms on the sandbed and tank walls, hair algae growing over all tank walls and some of the rocks, bubble algae starting to appear on the rocks. This must've been due to my feeding of 1 cube of mysis every alternate day!

Tested the parameters yesterday night and they are as follows:

Salinity: 1.022

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nitrate: 5ppm

pH: 8.5

kH: 7.0 dkH

Calcium: 360ppm

Magnesium: 1180ppm

I haven't gotten a phospate test kit as yet, however, I'm thinking that its the frozen food which is causing the phospate levels to spike thus causing the algae to grow. I'm wondering if there is a saturation point for the algae growth, by reducing my feedings at this point of time since I don't have much fish that requires heavy feedings.

The level of nitrogenous waste product are being kept in controlled at this point of time too and I don't feel the need to worry about these 3 parameters. However, its the big 3 that I'm currently worried about.

IMO, its the SG that is causing the lower Ca and Mg levels. I've been trying to raise the SG by changing water every week and replacing it with a saltwater with SG 1.024. However, this is going to be slow as I'm only changing about 5% of the water each time round. I'm skeptical about directly adding saltmix to the sump right now as it will cause some fluctuations which will affect the organisms. Maybe someone can chime in with regards to this issue.

I'm also thinking of dripping kalk once I have adjusted to the ideal SG and Ca levels so as to maintain. Currently, I only have a favia and hammer coral and I don't think they are huge consumers of the Ca. But I'm thinking of going to automatic dosing in the near future, maybe after I see the effects of kalk,

Another way to increase SG slowly with minimal stress to LS is through evaporation. This can be donw through your weekly water change regime.

1) If for example your weekly water change is "Y" litre of water

2) Prepare "Y" x 1.1 litre of water (10% more)

3) Siphon out "Y" litre of water and replace with Y1.1

4) Test SG at the end of the week and adjust with necessary

With this, as the water evaporate the salt remains and will increase your SG slowly and "naturally" as LS are used to slight change of SG during drought seasons.

HTH

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Algae growth is normal at this stage and unavoidable regardless. You can test for po4 but u might not get a reading as most are in the algae that has been absorbing. Just encourage coralline growth an wait it out.

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Algae growth is normal at this stage and unavoidable regardless. You can test for po4 but u might not get a reading as most are in the algae that has been absorbing. Just encourage coralline growth an wait it out.

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A week after the hair algae attack, things seem to be stabilising. It is observed that the ends of the hair algae are turning white. This should signify that their growth are slowing down I hope.

DSC_0282.jpg

Managed to also scrape off 2 sides of the glass in order to facilitate viewing and so far, only sporadic growth have been observed.

Salinity is also rising to a much more desirable level of 1.023 thanks to weekly water changes.

I'm also very satisfied with the appearances of the inhabitants and they are actively responding to my feedings of frozen food, especially the Periclimenes holthusi.

I also managed to grab hold of 2x Wetmorella nigropinnata with hopes of pairing them up. Saw them taking morsels of the frozen food and bringing it back to their hideout only though.

Here are some snapshots of the inhabitants.

Safecracker zoas from Kakani.

DSC_0278.jpg

Supposedly Rasta zoas but they dropped onto the substrate a few days ago and have since been like this:(

DSC_0279.jpg

Feisty little fellow which always hangs out at the back of the tank.

DSC_0283.jpg

Will continue to maintain the weekly water changes in order to rise the salinity to optimum levels of 1.024.

I'm also on the look out for Priolepis nocturna, Discordipinna griessingeri and hopefully a small harem of Trimma when Henry has a new shipment! Would also like to add in a photosynthetic seafan in the background, some rics to cover the exposed tank bottom and perhaps some juicy blastos! :yeah:

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