JH's 24x24x18inches Build Thread

[yikai]

hair algae goes away faster in small tank.

i'm also experiencing it in my new tank now. but currently its bearing its teeth at full force. just gotta wait and wait.

[veliferium]

It's been awhile.Hair algae growth have slowed down and overtaken by brown film algae,probably due to the silicates in my water source.And I've managed to make some slight adjustments to the tank.

1. Added another piece of LR to maximize the scape. I felt that the previous one did not provide enough open space and overhangs to observe fish swimming over and under it. Therefore....

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_02832.jpg.html'>

2. Continued the process of making adjustments to the salinity with water changes. Salinity still remains at 1.023 despite weekly changes but I'm bumming onto this and gonna take it slow lest undesirable things happen. As the saying goes, "Nothing good happens overnight in reefing"

Some of the not so good things:

Been testing the water for a few days straight and the results seems to be consistent.

pH: 8.5

kH: 5.6 dkH

Ca: 360 ppm

Mg: 1200pm

The kH is worrying me and visually, I can sense there's something wrong as the growth of corallines seem to have slowed down.

Question: I have a spare container of Brightwell Kalkwasser lying around. Should I start dosing it every night via gravity feed in order to increase the carbonate hardness?

I don't really get why the kH is this low as the Mg is at pretty stable levels. Moreover, I haven't found any precipitation around my pumps therefore I'm ruling that out.

My initial plans were to start dosing only once my salinity hits 1.024.

[spgohjc]

May I ask where do you buy your NSW?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

[veliferium]

May I ask where do you buy your NSW?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Initial introduction of saltwater is from Iwarna Aquafarm.

Subsequent water changes are carried out using red sea coral pro+diamond energy water.

[spgohjc]

Your parameters seem a bit weird. So you actually mixed them.

[Quas111]

Initial introduction of saltwater is from Iwarna Aquafarm.

Subsequent water changes are carried out using red sea coral pro+diamond energy water.

diamond energy water is not RO/DI water. I thought it was RO/DI too at first but turns out it is only similar to RO(not identical) you may have to buy a distillation kit if you want "perfect" conditions for your water, perfect being recommended. Diamond water still contains tds that's why you need to distill the water it produces

[veliferium]

diamond energy water is not RO/DI water. I thought it was RO/DI too at first but turns out it is only similar to RO(not identical) you may have to buy a distillation kit if you want "perfect" conditions for your water, perfect being recommended. Diamond water still contains tds that's why you need to distill the water it produces

Thanks for the heads up bro!

I'm aware that diamond is not RO/DI per se.

However, I don't think that 0 TDS is essential at least for me since saltwater, technically speaking, have a rather high TDS due to the mineral content of the different elements inside saltwater.

In fact, I was trying to solve the low kH/Ca problem which I suppose can be rectified using an additive (ie Kalkwasser). I think that would be ideal since most of the evaporation takes away only freshwater, while the organisms inside are constantly depleting the big 3. Since most of my water changes are only partial (< 50%), I think I will have to try other alternatives of supplementing.

Currently not looking at dosing pump due to the slightly higher cost and trying out cheaper methods first, since I don't own any high consumers of Ca and kH at this point of time

[veliferium]

As my tank is progressing quite a bit,I'm trying to fill up some gaps which I hadn't manage to make a decision on initially. They include,

1. Adding a redundancy plan to the return pump; by having a second pump to run the chiller in the case of pump failure for the first.

2. Running GFO/carbon in the form of fluidised reactors.

3. Increasing the flow rate of the aquarium by investing in controllable wavemakers.

4. Investing in a DI Unit.

Of the above, I am in the process of 2 and 4 while 3 is probably not so much in urgency as I have yet to fill the tank with more sps frags and I feel that the current set up is sufficient for now except for a single dead spot on the right hand side of the tank.

Of all the above, the one issue that has set me thinking more is point 1. I'm currently running a Fluval SP 2 return pump (flowrate ~3600L/h). Return loop is as such, pump ---> chiller----> return. I would like to include another pump to feed the chiller so that the loop will be as such,

Pump 1 (yet to be decided but probably a pump with ~2000L/h flowrate)

pump-->chiller + T-off to 2xFR-->return

Pump 2

pump--->return

Would like to seek the advise of more experienced reefers on this issue as well as how I can construct a second return and whether it is necessary to drill any holes. I was wondering if adding Pump 1 will end up draining my sump but I'm guessing the return for Pump 1 can be dialed down with a ball valve. Overflow is a single durso piping with standard 3/4" diameter pipe.

Sorry I'm still a noob in piping works,trying to see if I can manage some DIY works with the help of bros here.

[screamyourheartout]

My tank build is similar to yours, I'm currently running two eheim 1262 as return pumps

I also did T off to 2 FRs and a chiller from each pump respectively. Even so my overturn rate is so high,

I still cannot run 2 pumps at max capacity as my durso overflow pipe cannot keep up.

Do take this into consideration, it may seem minor but it does play a part when affecting your sump level.

My previous experience when running both pumps at full capacity, led to occasional micro bubbles due to high flow in sump

and elevated sump level which may contribute to overflowing sump.

[veliferium]

My tank build is similar to yours, I'm currently running two eheim 1262 as return pumps

I also did T off to 2 FRs and a chiller from each pump respectively. Even so my overturn rate is so high,

I still cannot run 2 pumps at max capacity as my durso overflow pipe cannot keep up.

Do take this into consideration, it may seem minor but it does play a part when affecting your sump level.

My previous experience when running both pumps at full capacity, led to occasional micro bubbles due to high flow in sump

and elevated sump level which may contribute to overflowing sump.

Thank you bro for the invaluable advice!

I'm looking at running a second Aquabee pump with a flowrate of 2000L/h for the T-off to FRs and chiller. Do you think this would be feasible?

I have tried the headloss calculator on RC, however, I'm rather confused by the way it is calculated

[MAG]

Hi. Gd evening. I'm also using zetlight and it's my first time using led. Would you mind sharing the timing u set for the zetlight. I also hv two tubes of ati(white+pink) which I on from12-1630. Than zetlight from 1630-2130. I noticed when my ati lights are switch on , all my lps bloated up nicely. And once zetlight kicks in sm how certain corals shrink and the looks are not as nice as initially. Not too sure why it's like that?

[veliferium]

Hi. Gd evening. I'm also using zetlight and it's my first time using led. Would you mind sharing the timing u set for the zetlight. I also hv two tubes of ati(white+pink) which I on from12-1630. Than zetlight from 1630-2130. I noticed when my ati lights are switch on , all my lps bloated up nicely. And once zetlight kicks in sm how certain corals shrink and the looks are not as nice as initially. Not too sure why it's like that?

Good Evening bro, I find this fixture very strong. Initially I was sitting it on top of my tank and I realised that I have bleached some of the corals (rics esp).

Now I am hanging it 6" above the water and can still sense that the rics are still unhappy. However, all other LPS/softies are doing fine (hammer,zoas).

IMO, the key to LED is slow acclimatisation of the corals to the lights.

I tune my settings to about 80% blue, 20% white. Colour mixing about 40% and UV about 20%. This should be the combination for mid-day mode. The rest of the modes are just varying degrees of the original combination. I have tried playing around with the settings, and somehow have yet to manage to find a sweet spot, especially so when all the photos I take mostly turn out too damn blue. hahaha

I feel that the key is blues > white and maybe alittle of the UV(but not too much as it will result in difficulty in viewing the tank).

I will try to do a more updated settings and hope to find more zetlight users! There is so little info available over the net for this brand and somehow I feel that it is rather under-rated.

Hope you have fun in tuning but do take note that the livestocks would require some time to get used to it!

[screamyourheartout]

Thank you bro for the invaluable advice!

I'm looking at running a second Aquabee pump with a flowrate of 2000L/h for the T-off to FRs and chiller. Do you think this would be feasible?

I have tried the headloss calculator on RC, however, I'm rather confused by the way it is calculated

One question, since you are to add another return pump, where is the other return pipe gonna be?

<4000L/h should be Ok which in your case includes headloss and output from FRs.

I can only give a rough gauge from my experience with my tank but from the pictures your sump seem pretty small and water level do rise significantly, I would encourage you adding ball valves as when tuned down, more flow will be directed to your other output like FR

Lastly, headloss calculator does not calculate you T off so you might want to include additional horizontal length and pipe output.

Good luck

[veliferium]

One question, since you are to add another return pump, where is the other return pipe gonna be?

<4000L/h should be Ok which in your case includes headloss and output from FRs.

I can only give a rough gauge from my experience with my tank but from the pictures your sump seem pretty small and water level do rise significantly, I would encourage you adding ball valves as when tuned down, more flow will be directed to your other output like FR

Lastly, headloss calculator does not calculate you T off so you might want to include additional horizontal length and pipe output.

Good luck

I am not intending to drill another hole for the extra return. Do you think it would be better to just run an extra pump with the FRs and direct the outflow to the sump since I will only be hanging the extra return pipe onto the side of the tank's glass. Noted that it will be rather hazardous.

[screamyourheartout]

Definitely

[MAG]

Good Evening bro, I find this fixture very strong. Initially I was sitting it on top of my tank and I realised that I have bleached some of the corals (rics esp).

Now I am hanging it 6" above the water and can still sense that the rics are still unhappy. However, all other LPS/softies are doing fine (hammer,zoas).

IMO, the key to LED is slow acclimatisation of the corals to the lights.

I tune my settings to about 80% blue, 20% white. Colour mixing about 40% and UV about 20%. This should be the combination for mid-day mode. The rest of the modes are just varying degrees of the original combination. I have tried playing around with the settings, and somehow have yet to manage to find a sweet spot, especially so when all the photos I take mostly turn out too damn blue. hahaha

I feel that the key is blues > white and maybe alittle of the UV(but not too much as it will result in difficulty in viewing the tank).

I will try to do a more updated settings and hope to find more zetlight users! There is so little info available over the net for this brand and somehow I feel that it is rather under-rated.

Hope you have fun in tuning but do take note that the livestocks would require some time to get used to it!

[MAG]

Thx for sharing. Do u mind if we communicate thru what's app cos I don't log into Src often? My no is 98453428. Not too sure what I pressed in this page that it went thru blank.

[ReDDeviLs]

Aquabee pumps have tremendous headloss. unless you op for 2000I not the 2000.

i would suggest Ehiem or DD pumps

[ReDDeviLs]

I am not intending to drill another hole for the extra return. Do you think it would be better to just run an extra pump with the FRs and direct the outflow to the sump since I will only be hanging the extra return pipe onto the side of the tank's glass. Noted that it will be rather hazardous.

it all depends on how you hang the extra pipe and how you secure them. i done the same thing but with extra tools to secure the pipe into the tank, infact i have done this many times. LOL

[veliferium]

Some photo updates.

FTS:

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_0554.jpg.html'>

Zoas Dump:

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_0555.jpg.html'>

1 of the Wetmorella nigropinnata and Pseudocheilinops ataenia ( I think I have 2 M of the P.ataenia but so far no signs of aggression yet but also no signs of courting)

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_0561.jpg.html'>

Carribean Rock Flower Anemone(In love with these guys, will definitely get another one the next time when there's another shipment Crazy colours+Not as mobile as normal nems+receptive towards my feedings)

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_0565.jpg.html'>

Nemateleotris helfrichi (Trying to be boss of the tank, just love its colours)

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_0563.jpg.html'>

Terelabrus sp.(white striped) (My most exp fish thus far,still undergoing BMT training,keeping fingers crossed as this is the first time I'm trying out this lesser-known sp)

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/daybreaks91/media/DSC_0558.jpg.html'>

[veliferium]

Basically the rocks just underwent a royal rumble. Finally decided on this scape for now.

Dumped a packet of CaribSea Ocean Direct live sand into the tank yesterday and it turned the entire tank cloudy. Was so worried that livestocks will dieoff but luckily no casualties and tested the water last night for assurance, luckily nothing.

My itchy hands resulted in my trying to raise my Ca levels using calcium chloride powder. Levels went up to 500ppm and I'm trying to do water changes to lower it now. Luckily LS are all still doing well. Will stop fiddling with any supplements for now until levels are back to normal. As the old saying goes, if it ain't broken, don't fix it. Now I know...HAHAHA

[yikai]

Gorgeous helfrichi. Such a nice little fish. Ca 500 is ok. But check your hk and mg for any fluctuations. Actually withou SPS your parameters can be relatively experimental. Your hammer and zoas wouldn't mind. That red skirt green face one is beautiful btw.

[veliferium]

Cyano is taking over my sandbed and I realised that my skimmer is not skimming as desired. Took it out and gave it a wipedown and didn't find any problems. Its been day 2 since I last washed it and there is still not much skimmate formed. Don't know whether is it still breaking in again or is there other reasons.

According to this photo, the bubbles seem okay.

http://s1059.photobucket.com/albums/t437/daybreaks91/?action=view&current=DSC_0567.mp4

And I'm currently running FM Ultraphos in my reactor. Just changed the media to a fresh batch yesterday and PO4 readings were 0.8ppm this morning.

How should I deal with this evil nemesis?

[Admiraltian]

Have u adjust ur skimmer's air intake & pump water inlet to the fullest?

[veliferium]

Realised my air intake was at the other end(blur me)

Just maxed it out and its foaming right now. Let's see what kind of skimmate it can produce