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actually its doable...under these circumstances. many LR and 1 nemo. in a 3 ft tank. swee!

Only way to be sure is testkit...waterparams wont lie.

Hmm. Water parameters now r, ammonia:0 nitrite :0 nitrate close to 0 also .. Means cycling over?

Aim and achieve.

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What brand testkit u use? Salifert? You want to check for phosphates too but main thing is nitrate. If its indeed less than 10 ppm wait awhile see if it stays that way, because bacteria may still be dying off when they lack ammonia to consume so usually will bounce back some nitrate. When the tank is running continously good ppm level, then its time u can put the fishes. I aleays start with a small fish first and dont put in alot of livestock at once.

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What brand testkit u use? Salifert?You want to check for phosphates too but main thing is nitrate. If its indeed less than 10 ppm wait awhile see if it stays that way, because bacteria may still be dying off when they lack ammonia to consume so usually will bounce back some nitrate. When the tank is running continously good ppm level, then its time u can put the fishes. I aleays start with a small fish first and dont put in alot of livestock at once.

For nitrite I use waterline testkit. For nitrate I use api testkit.. Are they accurate?

Aim and achieve.

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I never use waterline. But API for me is a 'cheap' brand, to each hos own. My preferrnce for salifert was bec of popular demand and friends use it so easy to share results. If you look at reviews it is also a highly praised brand

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I never use waterline. But API for me is a 'cheap' brand, to each hos own. My preferrnce for salifert was bec of popular demand and friends use it so easy to share results. If you look at reviews it is also a highly praised brand

It has been 1 week since the water cycling n I've been adding bio mature bacteria to speed up the process. Am I able to add fishes in now since the reading is low?

Aim and achieve.

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Adding bacteria to speed up process is basically just multiplying the bacteria count which from my earlier theory means theres gonna be a die off when the foodsource has depleted which will create nitrate bloom after the initial die off. Usually by this time i will have biopellets or refugium up and running to maintain the status quo. If you dont have either of these equipment running, i would adopt a wait and see approach. I am very cautious when it comes to cycling, ihave waited as long as a month for my 4ft before adding fishes. Even then, i feel its not enough as i can still observe traces of nitrate and phosphate

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Adding bacteria to speed up process is basically just multiplying the bacteria count which from my earlier theory means theres gonna be a die off when the foodsource has depleted which will create nitrate bloom after the initial die off. Usually by this time i will have biopellets or refugium up and running to maintain the status quo. If you dont have either of these equipment running, i would adopt a wait and see approach. I am very cautious when it comes to cycling, ihave waited as long as a month for my 4ft before adding fishes. Even then, i feel its not enough as i can still observe traces of nitrate and phosphate

How would Biopellets or refugium help in this case? Sry i'm new in this . I think there's lots of die off in my live rocks..there are lots of white spongy and web like things growing on it.

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For biopellets, its a reaction with the water that creates a continous but slow foodsource for the bacteria, so the die off wouldnt be drastic and your nitrate can have a better ppm adjustment. In a refugium, the algae that is cultivated in it will absorb the nitrates which acts as a biological filter. This will help to stem algae growth in the main display as well as maintain ur nitrate levels.

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Hmm. Water parameters now r, ammonia:0 nitrite :0 nitrate close to 0 also .. Means cycling over? Aim and achieve.
Your nitrate is close to zero? What kinda of water u used for your salt mix? Tap or ro/di? If your test kit verify your ANN as follow, and u have a massive die off to start with, u can stock up slowly

2x1.5x1.5 tank

Lighting: AI hydra 52HD

Skimmer: Deltec SC 1455

Reactor: Minimax; rowaphos

Skimz  ; NP biopellets

Wave Maker: MP 40 WQD

Return pump: Eheim 1262

Chiller: Arctica 1/10 hp

 

A righteous man cares for the needs of his animal, but the kindest acts of the wicked are cruel -- Proverbs 12:10

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Your nitrate is close to zero? What kinda of water u used for your salt mix? Tap or ro/di?If your test kit verify your ANN as follow, and u have a massive die off to start with, u can stock up slowly

I used tap water. I had a massive die off in the tank alr. My nitrate is 0 tested from the api test kit. Means now I can start adding livestock?

Aim and achieve.

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I used tap water. I had a massive die off in the tank alr. My nitrate is 0 tested from the api test kit. Means now I can start adding livestock? Aim and achieve.
At the end of a cycle. Nitrate shouldn't be zero. What was ur highest spike in nitrite n ammonia?

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At the end of a cycle. Nitrate shouldn't be zero. What was ur highest spike in nitrite n ammonia?

I've forgotten my ammonia , but i remembered that my nitrite was alr 5-10mg/l which was dark purple.

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ANN = 0 means cycling haven start or your test kit is faulty. Since you had a massive die off you will have a ammonia spike which means it's impossible for your nitrate to be 0 at the moment. Get some microbelift nightout-2 or similar bacteria product to dose. I hope you'll start listening and not add any livestocks at the moment.

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Hmm. Water parameters now r, ammonia:0 nitrite :0 nitrate close to 0 also .. Means cycling over?

Aim and achieve.

Try follow below ANN profile to cycle your new tank. Please do not just measure.. record the trend you may correlate well. Cheers and Happy Reefing.

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ANN = 0 means cycling haven start or your test kit is faulty. Since you had a massive die off you will have a ammonia spike which means it's impossible for your nitrate to be 0 at the moment. Get some microbelift nightout-2 or similar bacteria product to dose. I hope you'll start listening and not add any livestocks at the moment.

Try follow below ANN profile to cycle your new tank. Please do not just measure.. record the trend you may correlate well. Cheers and Happy Reefing.

I've been dosing 5ML of BioMature-FilterStarter everyday Dk if its working or not. I've just re tested my water params , nitrite 1mg/l. (very light purple color). and nitrate still 0 (yellow in color)..

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How old is your system. May be help list down your tank ANN measurement trend. if possible.. Note* Ammonia & Nitrite is unacceptable & stress to fishes..You need to monitor until they over and follow the ANN Cycle profile in videos above you will roughly know when your ready.

Yup, adding bac product will help your tank cycle. Cheers..

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How old is your system. May be help list down your tank ANN measurement trend. if possible.. Note* Ammonia & Nitrite is unacceptable & stress to fishes..You need to monitor until they over and follow the ANN Cycle profile in videos above you will roughly know when your ready.

 

Yup, adding bac product will help your tank cycle. Cheers..

Its one week old. May I know roughly how long it takes for nitrite to go down?

Aim and achieve.

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one week old surely not cycle yet.. normally fastest take about 2 to 3 weeks but measurement is a must. Remember patient is the key success for reefing.. do not add any more live stock till cycle complete. Cheers and Happy Reefing..

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I should say min 4 weeks of cycling. Dose Bacteria, add market prawn for it to rot in the tank to help it cycle. Don't kanchiong bro, later u will end up like me during the first few months of starting this hobby, ended up decomming, waste of money and start a new tank which till date it is succesfull.

RO/DI doesnt just remove chlorine, it removes all those impurities that a tap water have. If u dont use ro/di or basic DI water, u will be battling alot of problems and end up u will give up the hobby and waste ur money. Been there, done that.

If u don;t wanna use ro/di, get ur self a diy DI purifier. It just consist of bottle, Filter wool, Activated Carbon, DI resin, TDS meter and a small cheap pump to feed it through. Be aware, this DIY way will cost abit more than a RO/DI system coz the DI Resin will be unusable at a fast pace. But still, it cheaper than getting Bottled DI water from supermarkets.

Ro/di system is cheaper in a long run as the use of its media is minimal. BUT u will really waste lots of water as u will collect purified water and reject un-purified water. Maybe around 1/4 of purified water, 3/4 of rejected water. But still those amount doesnt really make a difference on ur water bill and with 100 Gallons of water, u can use this for 1 month.

Diy DI Sytems, will not have any water waste, but the cost of refilling DI Resin is a pain. If i recall, 5 liters of DI Resin will cost u about $50. 1 Liter of DI of Resin can purify maybe about 40 Gallons? Just place it a tank of water, and run a pump through it, let it run till u have as close as 0 TDS reading. I Did mine and I have 0.01ppt reading withing 24 hours.

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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one week old surely not cycle yet.. normally fastest take about 2 to 3 weeks but measurement is a must. Remember patient is the key success for reefing.. do not add any more live stock till cycle complete. Cheers and Happy Reefing..

I should say min 4 weeks of cycling. Dose Bacteria, add market prawn for it to rot in the tank to help it cycle. Don't kanchiong bro, later u will end up like me during the first few months of starting this hobby, ended up decomming, waste of money and start a new tank which till date it is succesfull.

RO/DI doesnt just remove chlorine, it removes all those impurities that a tap water have. If u dont use ro/di or basic DI water, u will be battling alot of problems and end up u will give up the hobby and waste ur money. Been there, done that.

If u don;t wanna use ro/di, get ur self a diy DI purifier. It just consist of bottle, Filter wool, Activated Carbon, DI resin, TDS meter and a small cheap pump to feed it through. Be aware, this DIY way will cost abit more than a RO/DI system coz the DI Resin will be unusable at a fast pace. But still, it cheaper than getting Bottled DI water from supermarkets.

Ro/di system is cheaper in a long run as the use of its media is minimal. BUT u will really waste lots of water as u will collect purified water and reject un-purified water. Maybe around 1/4 of purified water, 3/4 of rejected water. But still those amount doesnt really make a difference on ur water bill and with 100 Gallons of water, u can use this for 1 month.

Diy DI Sytems, will not have any water waste, but the cost of refilling DI Resin is a pain. If i recall, 5 liters of DI Resin will cost u about $50. 1 Liter of DI of Resin can purify maybe about 40 Gallons? Just place it a tank of water, and run a pump through it, let it run till u have as close as 0 TDS reading. I Did mine and I have 0.01ppt reading withing 24 hours.

Thanks for the advice :D . Now that my tank has quite some water dissolved , must i add in some di water ? or just leave it . i've bought like 50 gallons of di water just now.

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Thanks for the advice :D . Now that my tank has quite some water dissolved , must i add in some di water ? or just leave it . i've bought like 50 gallons of di water just now.

Check salinity, perfect range should be 1.026, if its higher, top up with DI water.

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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Check salinity, perfect range should be 1.026, if its higher, top up with DI water.

the other not so good but cheaper way is to take water from water cooler..kekeke

one week old surely not cycle yet.. normally fastest take about 2 to 3 weeks but measurement is a must. Remember patient is the key success for reefing.. do not add any more live stock till cycle complete. Cheers and Happy Reefing..

So guys, just to confirm something, means once Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 i can add fishes in already?

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So guys, just to confirm something, means once Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 i can add fishes in already?

Yes.. on cycle part. meanwhile, you can study fish compatibility, fish selection and how to acclimatise new fish before your tank cycled also fish disease handling. Cheers..

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BANNER.jpg
1-3.jpg


LFS Map in singapore
__________________
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>
·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. >((((º>
Cheers and Happy Reefing....

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