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Office tank upgraded


alexcyf
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Decided to take some of photos :) Trying to capture some my fishes with my DSLR.. need more practice tho..post-21059-0-38099800-1374998247_thumb.jpost-21059-0-02305200-1374998249_thumb.jpost-21059-0-98994600-1374998252_thumb.jpost-21059-0-52594000-1374998256_thumb.jpost-21059-0-54875500-1374998258_thumb.jpost-21059-0-25209200-1374998413_thumb.j

The better close ups of some corals.post-21059-0-58701000-1374998251_thumb.jpost-21059-0-00109700-1374998254_thumb.jpost-21059-0-52820100-1374998257_thumb.jpost-21059-0-88080600-1374998422_thumb.j

and a side profile and FTS..post-21059-0-15976800-1374998255_thumb.jpost-21059-0-13711400-1374998250_thumb.j

Enjoy whatever is left of the weekend!

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Nice looking at your fishes & corals... :welldone:

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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Thanks for ur encouragement! And for ur encouragement to many other threads too!
Better looking at other ppl's tanks than see mine all the time.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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  • SRC Member

Haha no la. Not purchases. Jus that I din take photos of them recently. Haha tried my best to close up. But photos alwiz not very sharp. So nv post them.. Think I take better photos with my iPhone..

Your tank is getting nicer everyday as I view the thread! :thumbsup:

On the photos: Your photos seems to incorporate some hand shakes.... Did you take the photos hand held? If yes, maybe you can get a tripod to stabilize.

If it is too troublesome, press your lens onto your tank's glass surface to get a steadier photo.

You may want to turn off your your pumps and wavemakers when you want to take photos of your corals. Corals moving because of the water flow will cause your photos to have motion blur.

Lastly, use a smaller aperture value with the faster shutter speed it allows (turn on all your lights). This will allow you to capture sharper photos on most part of your corals.

2cents

2 Feet Tank: (Decom Feb 2015)
-Lightings : Pharos LED light 90W with wireless controller
-Chiller : Arctica 1/10HP with H2Ocean Flow Pump 2000

-Wavemaker : Vortech MP10ES
-Skimmer : Bubble Magus NAC 3.5

-Return Pump : Eheim Compact 3000
-Reactor – TLF150 (Mod) with NP Biopellet
-Reactor – TLF150 with Rowaphos


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Your tank is getting nicer everyday as I view the thread! :thumbsup:

On the photos: Your photos seems to incorporate some hand shakes.... Did you take the photos hand held? If yes, maybe you can get a tripod to stabilize.

If it is too troublesome, press your lens onto your tank's glass surface to get a steadier photo.

You may want to turn off your your pumps and wavemakers when you want to take photos of your corals. Corals moving because of the water flow will cause your photos to have motion blur.

Lastly, use a smaller aperture value with the faster shutter speed it allows (turn on all your lights). This will allow you to capture sharper photos on most part of your corals.

2cents

Wow! Thanks for the advices! Will try these when I use my DSLR next time!

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Wow! Thanks for the advices! Will try these when I use my DSLR next time!

No worries :)... I can't stop when it comes to photography... please bear with me :paiseh:

let me know how else I can help. I am personally not very good on fishes as they swim too fast but if desperate you can try using flash to 'freeze' them although I never liked flash photography.

If you really do use flash, make sure you bounce your light source to get a natural look and a little of '3D' feel. Never blast your subjects with flash direct. Unless you want those 'textbook' scientific feel....

2 Feet Tank: (Decom Feb 2015)
-Lightings : Pharos LED light 90W with wireless controller
-Chiller : Arctica 1/10HP with H2Ocean Flow Pump 2000

-Wavemaker : Vortech MP10ES
-Skimmer : Bubble Magus NAC 3.5

-Return Pump : Eheim Compact 3000
-Reactor – TLF150 (Mod) with NP Biopellet
-Reactor – TLF150 with Rowaphos


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Wah got photography sinsei must ask Liao lol

Bro how u do ur white balancing in photoshop? For me main issue is how to get same colour as Tank when view real life

There are many bros in the forum good in photography. I am sure everyone is glad to share.

Nothing is fixed or a standard in photography so getting a correct white balance (WB) will be viewed upon slightly differently by different individuals.

I have to be honest, the AUTO WB settings will suit you best and get you the closest results most of the time. Try to do it right on the camera and not on the Photoshop. All the digital editing on a computer really tires me out and lose the fun of photo taking... (at least that is for me)

If you are looking for 'real life' colours AUTO should serve you well, else you may change it to either of the artificial lighting WB. Try bracketing your shots and see which suits your eyes most :)

2 Feet Tank: (Decom Feb 2015)
-Lightings : Pharos LED light 90W with wireless controller
-Chiller : Arctica 1/10HP with H2Ocean Flow Pump 2000

-Wavemaker : Vortech MP10ES
-Skimmer : Bubble Magus NAC 3.5

-Return Pump : Eheim Compact 3000
-Reactor – TLF150 (Mod) with NP Biopellet
-Reactor – TLF150 with Rowaphos


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Lol. I have realised that I am a total noob and super under utilized my camera.. Going find out more about the AUTO WB settings.. The true colours is really hard to capture for me too.. Thanks alot Jeff! Gonna PM u when I have more doubts man!

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  • 5 months later...

It's been a while since I last posted!! Been really busy with work..

Some updates to my office tank.. It suffered a bad cyano outbreak in nov/dec. had 4 overseas trip in that period and was unable to maintain the water parameters properly.. Cyano took away most of my sps.. And also some of my LPS.. Really heart wrenching.. Took a while to nurse the tank back to health. Did a 3 day no feeding and photo period and managed to clear out all the cyano. Also adjusted e photo window and a few water changes. Thankfully, my fishes are all alive, except my clowns..

post-21059-0-49079500-1390130985_thumb.jpost-21059-0-02800200-1390130999_thumb.jRIP..

Here's an updated FTS. Separated my new tomini because e YT is whacking it like crazy :(

post-21059-0-47888600-1390131383_thumb.j

On a separate note, it's 2014! House is coming! Gonna start planning for new tank! Any recommendation for good tank builders??

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  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah, the puffer is really super cute.. My colleagues' favourite fish! Forever begging for food! Well trained in eating pellets.. Even the small pellets on auto feeder

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