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how to create a good current for 2 feet cube sps


andysho
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Stack your LR so you get a centre mountain. Set up 2 PH on the rear top right & left corners and blast forward. The currents will smash against the front wall, deflect off and hence acheive a nice broad flow/ lose velocity, collide and create a whirlpool right in the centre front of tank. Good random flow using cheap PHs, no need use tunze. Should work because yours is a 2 footer. You can add in timers and alternate between left, right and both flow.

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Stack your LR so you get a centre mountain. Set up 2 PH on the rear top right & left corners and blast forward. The currents will smash against the front wall, deflect off and hence acheive a nice broad flow/ lose velocity, collide and create a whirlpool right in the centre front of tank. Good random flow using cheap PHs, no need use tunze. Should work because yours is a 2 footer. You can add in timers and alternate between left, right and both flow.

just thinking.. wouldn't you sad bed be affected? .. Even my canister filter output is moving my sandbed..

Why do we use "My 2 cents worth" when 1 cents are not legal tender in Singapore anymore? Shouldn't it be 5 cents worth?

"Its easier to blame the 'mantis' or crabs in the tank for missing & dead livestocks.."

http://arcanehacker.blogspot.com/

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Stack your LR so you get a centre mountain. Set up 2 PH on the rear top right & left corners and blast forward. The currents will smash against the front wall, deflect off and hence acheive a nice broad flow/ lose velocity, collide and create a whirlpool right in the centre front of tank. Good random flow using cheap PHs, no need use tunze. Should work because yours is a 2 footer. You can add in timers and alternate between left, right and both flow.

thanks for the advice

will buy small powerhead to blast it off in case

all my sands floating like snow sia

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You will have to position your PHs and live rock so there wont be too bad a gouge on your sandbed.

Silverfish: I run a 6060 (controlled with singe unit) and a 6000? (non controllable type 7000l/h type) in my three footer. The posiitioning is a bit tricky- to achieve max turbulence for SPS, slow current areas of LPS, minimal sandbed disturbance, hidden away at corners for neat tank. Can be done.

Of course some mistakes were committed - frogspawn nearly ripped off by misdirected stream. You will have to be careful.

IMO a 6060 should be fine with a 3 foot, if generally softies and LPS.

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But i feel it is a bit expensive to buy a controllable at double the price only to downsize its potential to 30% leh.

If you are talking about the broad flow of a non-control stream, can direct the blast against a side wall to disperse the velocity.

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i think i just buy 2 cheap powerhead and blast it against the wall~~ save $$$

the smallest tunz turbelle wave can cost me up to 200+++

I'm not really sure about this tunze thing but for that $200+, is the flow controllable?

Why do we use "My 2 cents worth" when 1 cents are not legal tender in Singapore anymore? Shouldn't it be 5 cents worth?

"Its easier to blame the 'mantis' or crabs in the tank for missing & dead livestocks.."

http://arcanehacker.blogspot.com/

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to make it controllable you will need to get those controllable model like the 6010 (7000l/h) or 6100 (12000 l/h).

Then you will still need the controller to generate the waves.

If you don't get the controller then you can just tune them for lower flow rates (down to 30%).

Else just get the non-controllable model and save some $$$.

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one is inlet.

the other two are outlet. This SCWD will alternate the output between the two outlet.

so to say, SCWD only alternates waterflow but still not control flow rate. So actually its not cheaper.. its meant to be an add on..

Why do we use "My 2 cents worth" when 1 cents are not legal tender in Singapore anymore? Shouldn't it be 5 cents worth?

"Its easier to blame the 'mantis' or crabs in the tank for missing & dead livestocks.."

http://arcanehacker.blogspot.com/

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