km_sg Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Hi all, Bought this tank about 2 years back and was just sitting at home waiting to be setup. Bought it on impulse looking at the wonderful setups around and then realized what I am getting into. Started learning about the hobby ever since sporadically whenever I could find time and have been lurking around various forums. Finally took the plunge today and set it up. Haven't made any upgrades or customizations so far. Day 1: Joined sgreef. Got a bag of sand some 6 kgs of live rock. Added water over it. Water is slightly murky. Have turned on the wave maker and the halide lamp. No change to the filtration setup [stock : ceramic balls + carbon + sponge]. Specific gravity is 1.022. Protein sink yet to be setup. Let me know what you guys think of it. Do you suggest any changes to the rocks formation ? What's the usual time frame for the water to clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiraltian Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 It will take a day or two to clear up, cheers and happy reefing. 1 Quote Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture. Lightings : Ecotech Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank. Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil. Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer. FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos. CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor. BPR: Marine Source Biopellet Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump. Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M Sine Wave Pump for Frag Tank. Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member Cedric Posted April 16, 2013 SRC Member Share Posted April 16, 2013 Hi km_sg, I've always been curious about the JBJ Nano 28g HQI. Infact, I was so keen to get it when it was out! Does it get hot? Do you run a chiller? Cedric Quote Comments are welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
km_sg Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 @Cedric For now, I am just turning on the halide lamps for about 4 hours a day. Reading contrasting views on whether to turn on the lights or not during cycling process. Decided to take the middle ground. Will definitely use a chiller when the cycling is about to complete. Day 2: Got some testing kits to check out the levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. Ammonia - 0.25 ppm Nitrite - 0 ppm Nitrate - 0 ppm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef garden Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 How's your tank parameters now? Quote Aquarium 3 - 250 liters with sump and refugium Jebao DC 6000 pump with speed controller Skimz skimmer AI Hydra 52 HD Hailea HS-66A (1/4 hp) chiller Maxspect Gyre TLF Phosban reactors with Phosban Tunze nano osmolator Marine Magic Triplet Dosing Aquarium 1 - 27 litres Atman HF-0600 HOB filter Maxspect Razor Nano 60W (10,000 K) AOL 60 litres chiller Tunze Nano Osmolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member iskay Posted May 4, 2013 SRC Member Share Posted May 4, 2013 Hi km_sg, I've always been curious about the JBJ Nano 28g HQI. Infact, I was so keen to get it when it was out! Does it get hot? Do you run a chiller? Cedric The temp rises a few degrees when the lights are on. Imagine the MH lamp is max 6 inches from the water level in a enclosed canopy. A chiller is a must for HQI. Quote "Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef garden Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 I thought the lights that come with it are LED ones and there are cooling fans? But with a hood, it is challenging. Quote Aquarium 3 - 250 liters with sump and refugium Jebao DC 6000 pump with speed controller Skimz skimmer AI Hydra 52 HD Hailea HS-66A (1/4 hp) chiller Maxspect Gyre TLF Phosban reactors with Phosban Tunze nano osmolator Marine Magic Triplet Dosing Aquarium 1 - 27 litres Atman HF-0600 HOB filter Maxspect Razor Nano 60W (10,000 K) AOL 60 litres chiller Tunze Nano Osmolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member iskay Posted May 5, 2013 SRC Member Share Posted May 5, 2013 I thought the lights that come with it are LED ones and there are cooling fans? But with a hood, it is challenging. HQI is 150W MH. LED is 28g NanoCube LED. Quote "Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
km_sg Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Day 28: Have been checking the parameters every 3-4 days. Absolutely no change in the parameters since the first week. I have been frequently dousing it with MB7 for the first two weeks according to the instructions. Now, I am worried if I have received a faulty API test kit. The nitrates and nitrates remain stubbornly at 0 while ammonia shows at somewhere between 0.25 and 0.5. Should i just go ahead and introduce some CuC and take it from there ? Or, is there anyone around east coast who can help me validate my parameters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member iskay Posted May 13, 2013 SRC Member Share Posted May 13, 2013 Throw in a dead market prawn to kicks start nitrogen cycle. Quote "Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
km_sg Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Ok, added a prawn in a mesh bag. Will see how it goes. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
km_sg Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Day 32: Allowed the prawn to decompose for a couple of days and removed it from the tank. Finally a change in the parameters. Ammonia : 1ppm Nitrite : 0.25 ppm Nitrates : ~ 2.5 ppm Water has turned a little cloudy. Could be a bacterial bloom ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef garden Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Yes, the cloudiness is due to bacterial bloom. You should leave the prawn to decompose. Anyway, do not stock anything until ammonia and nitrite reads 0 ppm. Quote Aquarium 3 - 250 liters with sump and refugium Jebao DC 6000 pump with speed controller Skimz skimmer AI Hydra 52 HD Hailea HS-66A (1/4 hp) chiller Maxspect Gyre TLF Phosban reactors with Phosban Tunze nano osmolator Marine Magic Triplet Dosing Aquarium 1 - 27 litres Atman HF-0600 HOB filter Maxspect Razor Nano 60W (10,000 K) AOL 60 litres chiller Tunze Nano Osmolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
km_sg Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Yesterday: Checked the parameters yesterday and the readings again showed the same. Did a colour comparison between the ammonia levels in my tank and the RO/DI salt water from Iwarna. The colors exactly matched. May be the yellow does have a greenish tinge when API test kit is used. So, got a eheim 1000 power compact pump and a JBJ Artica 1/15 used chiller. Absolutely didn't have any space to put the pump other than the middle chamber. This meant that I had to cut the filtration baskets into half and provision for the pump. Anyway all said and done, the chiller's cools the temperature down to 26. Replaced the filtration media with AquaChem's Pur II wrapped around with filtration wool. Today: Went to Iwarna. New stocks just landed and all of them were super busy transferring stuff. Anyway, got a striped shrimp and about 5 trochus snails right from the shipment. Got a couple of clown fishes, one bangai cardinal and one fire fish. Only 2 of the snails have started moving around. Waiting for the rest to show some signs of life. Tested pH. Its awfully low at 7.8. Worried if the stock skimmer with airstone is not doing enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member iskay Posted May 29, 2013 SRC Member Share Posted May 29, 2013 Did you do water change before putting in your livestock? WC is needed post cycling. Quote "Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member iskay Posted May 29, 2013 SRC Member Share Posted May 29, 2013 Also, jbj28 is a small tank, don't stock up so fast. Soon you'll run out of space for the nicer pricier LS. I use a 28g hqi too but I can fit eheim 1000 as replacement to the stock pumps. Airstone-driven skimmers are not useful IMO. Quote "Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
km_sg Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 I thought water change is needed usually to reduce the nitrates. My nitrates are still around ~ 2.5 ppm and there is not much of algae growth. Will the water change boost the pH a little ? The pipes of the stock return pumps were blocking the eheim 1000 to go down. Do you think one return pump as a wavemaker is sufficient for the waves. Do you have a build thread of your own. I would like to read about it. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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