Temperature Controller

[spade]

the manual gone liao

no worry

IC_901.pdf

[BarraCudaTM]

nice controller! btw spade, is it fully enclosed or bareback?

[spade]

nice controller! btw spade, is it fully enclosed or bareback?

the "back" is half-######, meaning got those holes to let go "hot air" and to connect wires

[BarraCudaTM]

okay .. I'm going to get 1 later ...

[Phang]

okay .. I'm going to get 1 later ...

Do call me later when you are there....

was wondering can this be linked to a Teco RA 680....

always wanted a external temp controller than the inbuilt ones.....

[BarraCudaTM]

okay ..

[mv3i]

aiyah ... so many interested .... why not gather all the order and ask spade to be our handy man ..... spaded can or not ???? we buy lunch for you lah .... on boh ??? I thought only me and spade thinking of external probe but got so many kaki around also wants the same thingy ...

[spade]

b4 everyone start to convert their chiller to use external probe, u need to hv a contactor in the chiller for the controller to start the compressor as the controller is only 3a it wouldn't be able to start the compressor the contactor would cost u another 100+

here's a pic of my chiller

[spade]

the controller still laying outside, no time to enlarge the fitting for it to go in

[spiff]

wah so chim

i jus replace my teco controller for the eliwell one. so ez! jus hv to remove all the wires n rewire it to the eliwell.

jus make sure tt the controller is either AC or DC depending on ur chiller

kudos to my fren who help me do it!

[mv3i]

spade ....

i already have a chiller and only needs a external probe ... can i replace the probe fm the chiller with the external one ? .... the chiller has a controller and a contacter and i just replace the probe connections with the NEW one ie ... the two wires are removed fm the contacter and replace with that fm the NEW probe ..... the only thing is not sure if the probe will be compatible with my controller ..... as there are a few types of probes in the market that i was told ... any suggestion

[spiff]

hey mv,

wat chiller r u using or shld i say wats the brand of ur controller

[Tanzy]

Spade,

Did your bro build that for you?

[BarraCudaTM]

I bought the ELIWELL EWPC 901 controller at $65 from YUANDA ELECTRIC ENGINEERING SLT #03-26 (inclusive probe)

this controller have a more "enclosed" back compared to the PC901 model, the only holes were for ventilation and wiring. The accuracy is the same, however the display panel only displays the whole numbers.

This model is capable of a relay output at 250V,8A.

This can start compressors up to ½HP or 375watts, any higher than that you will need a contactor

A 20A contactor will cost $14.

I dont have the wiring diagram for the contactor, maybe spade can advise?

[spade]

Spade,

Did your bro build that for you?

I bought the aquanetic 2nd hand, later the controller spoilt so gotta replace one lor. Got the IC901 instead of EWPC901 (becos it looks cooler ) anyway, after my bro open up and look inside the chiller, according to him is exactly the same as the frig. he THINK he can build one

mv3i:

the controller can takes PTC and NTC probes. may be if u can get the brand/model of ur chiller, we can find out??

EWPC901

check the 2nd page for the connections

BarraCuda:

u using it to control the MH temp??

IC_901.pdf

[BarraCudaTM]

a preventive measure to shut off the MH lights before my water boils mah

[BarraCudaTM]

I was given a probe that has a pin connector that wont fit into the controller!

[mv3i]

i'm using a hailea 1 Hp chiller and the controller is custom build by them i reckon .... coz got no brand or label on it ... most probable custom made one !!!!

any way .... the controller has all the wiring toa contactor and in the conatactor .... there is a 2 wire connection to the probe found inside the chiller .... what i reckon is that i can disconnect this and substitue it with another probe that i can put inside the sump ..... but the questions arises here .....

1) what kind of probe is the chiller using ?

2) is there a compatible thingy ?

3) Rating of the 2 different probes ?

4) Also COST !!!!

but since 8 bucks ... can try also chiller still under warranty !!!

Wosrt come to worst call the dealer and change one lah !!!

[Phang]

was talking to SPade and Barracuda about this....

Is it possible to contact the temperature control to the main supply that runs the chiller...

Place the chiller desired temp much lower so that when the probe activates, the chiller would on and cool the water.... once desired temp is reached (based on the external probe/controller setting), the power supply to the chiller would ceased.... therefore, no complications/modifications to be executed on the chiller...........

would like the comments of the technical whiz kids here.... Cedric??? Alvy????

[mv3i]

heard this from sam at Sealife ... he has a old( secondhand) controller in his shop ... he can do the modification to waht phang has describe above .... ie ... the controller acts as a switch/plug(on/off) for the chiller .... someone can asl sam for advise ... someone that knows him pretty well .... anyone ?

[alvy]

I'm not an electrical guru and i don't know the terms you guys used.....not so sure what you need to know, but simplistically speaking, ( i have an old teco external temp controller which i tore open to examine) a temp controller is simply a relay. if i'm not wrong, depending on the model of the controller, it runs on lower voltage to run the ICs, comparator etc etc.., but it has a relay switch(solid state or coil) which can switch higher voltage, depending on its specs! If what you have can switch 220-240vac (becoz some i came across switch up to 450vac or 110vac), then you can use the device as a control to turn on and off the fan coil and compressor.(ie : in your case, phang, it will activate your teco which has been set to activate at lower temp).. depending on your model, you might be able to asjust the hystersis so that it wun trip the chiller on and off when temp flucuates slightly at the set temp. Also, some temp controllers have 2 to 3 level of relay control - ie a few probes , turn on the chiller when temp is above programmed desired temp, turn off the chiller when temp reaches desired temp or when compressor overheats(2nd level). Most good chillers have 2 levels...1st level for control of water temp, 2nd level for safety purposes, to prevent the chiller from overheating!

You can even check out www.rs-component.com for a long list of temp controllers/ph probes/controllers and many other high tech but damn expensive goodies which you can easily order online and deliver in 2 days. (super duber expensive in many cases)..

AT: i'm not advertising huh!!

[Phang]

I'm not an electrical guru and i don't know the terms you guys used.....not so sure what you need to know, but simplistically speaking, ( i have an old teco external temp controller which i tore open to examine) a temp controller is simply a relay. if i'm not wrong, depending on the model of the controller, it runs on lower voltage to run the ICs, comparator etc etc.., but it has a relay switch(solid state or coil) which can switch higher voltage, depending on its specs! If what you have can switch 220-240vac (becoz some i came across switch up to 450vac or 110vac), then you can use the device as a control to turn on and off the fan coil and compressor.(ie : in your case, phang, it will activate your teco which has been set to activate at lower temp).. depending on your model, you might be able to asjust the hystersis so that it wun trip the chiller on and off when temp flucuates slightly at the set temp. Also, some temp controllers have 2 to 3 level of relay control - ie a few probes , turn on the chiller when temp is above programmed desired temp, turn off the chiller when temp reaches desired temp or when compressor overheats(2nd level). Most good chillers have 2 levels...1st level for control of water temp, 2nd level for safety purposes, to prevent the chiller from overheating!

You can even check out www.rs-component.com for a long list of temp controllers/ph probes/controllers and many other high tech but damn expensive goodies which you can easily order online and deliver in 2 days. (super duber expensive in many cases)..

AT: i'm not advertising huh!!

Electrical guru you might not be but definitely know enough to ruin some braincells in my head....

can you post that interpreted in layman terms......

Hmmm.... when you refer to the 2 probes in good chillers.... does it mean that the chiller activates once the temperature rises above the set temp.....

regarding the 2nd probe, the chiller will cease its cooling function either through the temp of the water attaining the set temp .... or.......the chiller gets too heated up and stops for a while for it to cool down before starting up again...

cos that's what happens to mine... though it was some sort of mulfunction.......

and regarding the hystersis, it won't be neccessary if my external probe is set at lets say...26 C.....

my chiller is fixed at 23 C.... so when the temp exceeds that of the probe set temp.... the chiller will be activate through the main power source....... the chiller will continue working but will stop once the reef water temp reaches the 26C not the temp of the water thru the chiller which is by now normally warmer than the reef....

Hmmmmm.... this does cause a more stable temperature for the reef....

[alvy]

hmm..I'm not dead sure about the 2 probe thingy!! BUT my AZOO definitely has 2 probes!! one in the water chamber, and one in the fan coil!

I can see what you wan to do..but still you might need to adjust the hystersis rite?? take for example, what if the temperature in the water is around 26deg, but a warm water current of 26.1-26.2deg, say from the top of the water column(heated by the mh) being blown towards your probe, and your controller is so sensitive it activates on the 0.1 deg raise in temp!!and switch off again when cooler water current comes into the area?? your cmpressor will be damaged in no time! anyway i think all controllers have hystersis adjustments..

[Phang]

hmm..I'm not dead sure about the 2 probe thingy!! BUT my AZOO definitely has 2 probes!! one in the water chamber, and one in the fan coil!

I can see what you wan to do..but still you might need to adjust the hystersis rite?? take for example, what if the temperature in the water is around 26deg, but a warm water current of 26.1-26.2deg, say from the top of the water column(heated by the mh) being blown towards your probe, and your controller is so sensitive it activates on the 0.1 deg raise in temp!!and switch off again when cooler water current comes into the area?? your cmpressor will be damaged in no time! anyway i think all controllers have hystersis adjustments..

Oh,..... you are refering to the external probe......

but isn't that how chillers work???

and how does the hysteris work in this area???

isn't the hysteris the difference between the wanted temp and the activation temp...

If that is so..... think the external controller should have that...

meaning, correct me if I'm wrong..... setting my reef temp at 27 C and the hysteris at 1 C.....which would cause the chiller to activate at 28 C only and stop its cooling function at 27C.....

think my braincells finally working......

BTW Hon, if you read this.... can you post up the settings (the P1, P2 thingy) for Teco Chillers again.....

I sort of lost track........ still trying to recover from the " shock " this morning......

[spade]

as i only used eliwell b4, so i can tell u only eliwell settings

ok juz to make more confusion here

in eliwell controller, the hysteris is called differential (diff vendor mah