CO2 tank

[DeepBlue]

Recently acquired second hand CO2 tank with regulator. noticed the date of last check was in yr 2000. Want to find out where I can send it to check for its validity, I heard someone told me that if it has not gone thru inspection and got the valid chop engraved, cannot go LFS to top up the CO2....

Appreciate some advice on this.

1) How long can one keep the tank before sending it in for this checks...??

2)What's the normal cost for getting it checked?

3)BEsides the regulator, what else must I get to fix it to a cal reactor?

[DaY]

Is your CO2 the silver color type? if yes, you can send it to Nature Aquarium. They have 1 for 1 exchange (but u must pay $15/-) to top up the gas.

I think you will need a bubble counter and a drip counter to enable you to see how much carbon dioxide is going into your calcuim reactor and how much is coming out. You will need air-tubes for connecting them also.

That's all i can think of right now in the morning

[nutx]

The validation will last for 5 years.

To get it re-validate, most of the Gas Companies(supplying oxygen and CO2) can validate for you for abt $20-25.

Kallang area got a few, Soxal is there too. And Mo Kio industrial park beside Motorola Building also got one.

without the validation, these proper gas companies will not do the top-up. LFS and the smaller one will stilol do it, but they are like using a 10-20kg cylinder to topup your 3-5kg, so the refilled may not be that full.

Avoid going for 1-1 exchange as you are risking to get a not so good condition cylinder.

To link up to your Ca Reactor, will depend on what is in your Ca Reactor....some model comes with the bubbles counter already.

[DeepBlue]

Thanks Guys for the info...very helpful!!

my tank is a green one, formally used in a freshwater setup....not the siver ones..I'll bring it for the refill soon.

[dr evil]

hi bro,

u using Calcium reactor now?? got lobang, do share ok...

[reef2]

try getting a solenoid valve to control your regulator for easier maintenance and connecting to ph controller if u have 1.

[DeepBlue]

ph controller if u have 1.

er....veri ex and out of budget at the moment...

[Joe_P]

try getting a solenoid valve to control your regulator for easier maintenance and connecting to ph controller if u have 1.

The solenoid valve would be useless unless you have a PH controller...

You would also need to position the probe to register the pH of the effluent....

Unless your CR has a orifice to place the probe so as to test the chamber pH...

[reef2]

The solenoid valve would be useless unless you have a PH controller...

=> not true... if you monitor yr ph level after using the Ca controller, u can use a timer to stop the dosing of CO2 during time when ph is low (e.g. night) like wat the planted tank people are doing

[Joe_P]

The solenoid valve would be useless unless you have a PH controller...

=>  not true... if you monitor yr ph level after using the Ca controller, u can use a timer to stop the dosing of CO2 during time when ph is low (e.g. night) like wat the planted tank people are doing 

Hmmm... thats true .... but you would have to determine whether when the PH is low...

Question, do Corals perform calcification without lights???

Another issue is how you are gonna maintain a consistent Calcium/dkH levels since there is a timer there to determine how much CO2 gets pumped in ......???

I think a better bet would be the installing of a 2nd chamber to neutralise the low PH..... that would be much more feasible.....

[nutx]

er....veri ex and out of budget at the moment...

For the regulator, it's best to get the 2 step type (with 2 meter reading), so that the tunning is more accurate, and will not fluatuate due to the amount of gas in the cylinder.

I will recommend buy the industrial type regulator, look bulky but personally feel safer

[DeepBlue]

guys, thanks for the help, just another question??

can you help me identify the meters on my regulator....(really trying to learn more about the equipment)

[DeepBlue]

here's a closer look

stamps dated yr 2000...if can use one more year...then I can use it first and send for certifying end of the year, or do it now and leave it be.....

[roidan]

i havent used any co2 cylinder before or examine one closely before..

but the 2 meter may mean..one to measure the output of the cylinder...the other is the internal pressure of the cylinder...

hehe...but may be wrong...dun take my word for it

and if correct, the green scale is surely the pressure in the tank..the red scale is the output pressure

[Cookiemunster]

The validation will last for 5 years.

To get it re-validate, most of the Gas Companies(supplying oxygen and CO2) can validate for you for abt $20-25.

Kallang area got a few, Soxal is there too. And Mo Kio industrial park beside Motorola Building also got one.

without the validation, these proper gas companies will not do the top-up. LFS and the smaller one will stilol do it, but they are like using a 10-20kg cylinder to topup your 3-5kg, so the refilled may not be that full.

Avoid going for 1-1 exchange as you are risking to get a not so good condition cylinder.

To link up to your Ca Reactor, will depend on what is in your Ca Reactor....some model comes with the bubbles counter already.

Bro what Nutz said is true.

Never go to fish shop to do top up as it will not be completely filled.

And never go for immediate same day top ups as these will also be the same. Unless its at soxal.

The gauge closer to the cylinder is the output pressure available (adjustable by opening the cylinder valve slowly...but can only increase cannot decrease so do it slowly.....only way to decrease is by releasing gas)

The further away gauge (no 1) is the fine output adjustment pressure available to the gas output.

Expensive regulators (german types or industrial types) have an additional fine adjustment allowing you to control bubble output in seconds. Keep the output (no 1) low at about 1 quarter. This allows easier adjustments. And never open either valves more than 3 quarter on a full tank or your gauge can be damaged easily.

As for good regulators, I recommend the bioplast (german). It has 2 controls.

[roidan]

now i know...hehee

paiseh deepblue, wrong info given by me..hehe

thanks cookiemunster for the info

[Cookiemunster]

now i know...hehee

paiseh deepblue, wrong info given by me..hehe

thanks cookiemunster for the info

No worries roidon bro......actually in a way you are correct. Because as the tank empties, the no 2 gauge is useful to indicate that. But its never good to rely on that with cyclinder valve fully open as it can damage the regulator. And it also makes it hard to control or fine tune with the cylinder valve open fully.

[weileong]

The gauge closer to the cylinder is the output pressure available (adjustable by opening the cylinder valve slowly...but can only increase cannot decrease so do it slowly.....only way to decrease is by releasing gas)

The further away gauge (no 1) is the fine output adjustment pressure available to the gas output.

Expensive regulators (german types or industrial types) have an additional fine adjustment allowing you to control bubble output in seconds. Keep the output (no 1) low at about 1 quarter. This allows easier adjustments. And never open either valves more than 3 quarter on a full tank or your gauge can be damaged easily.

The guage near the cylinder (with the green lettering) is to tell you the pressure of the cylinder.

The guage (with the red lettering) is to tell you the output pressure from the regulator.

The brass one on the bottom is the needle valve but from the look of it, it is low quality and you will find it very difficult to adjust to the low count needed. It is also very prone to leakage. Do a leak test and you'll be surprised.

For CO2 you can just use all brass regulators and they are not too expensive (relatively speaking). You can buy those industrial types. If you buy a proper regulator you can open the main valve fully and it will not be damaged.

[DeepBlue]

For CO2 you can just use all brass regulators and they are not too expensive (relatively speaking). You can buy those industrial types. If you buy a proper regulator you can open the main valve fully and it will not be damaged.

A regulator like that will cost how much?

[weileong]

Industrial one?

I bought teflon coated ones around $1K.

Brass one around $300 can get. That is why I said relatively speaking.

Fish tank one around $60 (w/o solenoid) can get, but you gotta be careful like what cookie said don't open too much else you burst the guage.

[Joe_P]

Industrial one?

I bought teflon coated ones around $1K.

Brass one around $300 can get. That is why I said relatively speaking.

Fish tank one around $60 (w/o solenoid) can get, but you gotta be careful like what cookie said don't open too much else you burst the guage.

That is defintiely one expensive gauge to get...

Frankly, do we really have to get such kind for reef aquariums???

I'm currently using those $60 kind with one gauge.... works fine with me....

IMO, wouldn't it be better jus to focus that kind of cash on a proper needle valve which would give you a better feel and control over your CO2 output to CR.....

And Yes.... getting CO2 leak proof tubings are important.....

[BarraCudaTM]

A normal industrial gauge dont have to be so expensive, you can use those gauge for soft drinks/welding but they lack of a needle valve. You can install another quality needle valve for abt $50 or so.

[weileong]

Just to clear the misunderstanding in case you think I am crazy to pay for the regulator. I meant when I said "I bought" to be buy for my office

Personally I am using the $60 type too with solenoid valve and a good needle valve and that has worked very well for more than 3 yrs for me.

[nutx]

I'm using a Japan brand Chiyoda...I think was abt $100 few years back. I find this part most important, bec experienced a LFS taiwan made type that the meter FLEW off ! (Probably the older model of your, DeepBlue... )

For needle valve, there is a popular brand 'Nupro' (sp??) cost abt $50-60. very acurate. I'm using a cheaper type, abt $10+ from a kelantan shop. When new, finest tune is 1 bubble per 2-3 second constantly. The accuracy reduce become 1 bubble per second as the internal 'O-ring' is wear off after a few years of usage.

For solenoid, a germany brand 'Berket' is quite reliable. costing abt $50. This part is used by the Taiwan Brand carried by LFS too.

but buying different parts to assemble is a headache, bec you need to fine the right thread connector, or custom made the connector.

[DeepBlue]

wah....the more I try to find out about this...the more chim...

OK...to make it simple for me, looking at it, can I make do? or go change the regulator needle valve??

tomorrow got to spend more time reading this thread one more time