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Bio pellet replacing Rowaphos?


cheemi
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I am using biopellets in a biopellet reactor & rowaphos in another seperate FR. No issue at all. They actually work hand in hand. Biopellet by itself is not able to cope the high amount of PO4 produced by fish food due to feeding. They actually recommend to use a PO4 remover media such as rowaphos. When NO3 concentration drops to a low level (by biopellets), PO4 will follow suit, prolonging the effective lifespan of rowaphos. Still, rowaphos is still required at this stage to continue performing the role of removing PO4 only produced from fish food instead of also removing large amount of PO4 already present in the water during the earlier stage.

Just my 5 cents worth.

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I am using biopellets in a biopellet reactor & rowaphos in another seperate FR. No issue at all. They actually work hand in hand. Biopellet by itself is not able to cope the high amount of PO4 produced by fish food due to feeding. They actually recommend to use a PO4 remover media such as rowaphos. When NO3 concentration drops to a low level (by biopellets), PO4 will follow suit, prolonging the effective lifespan of rowaphos. Still, rowaphos is still required at this stage to continue performing the role of removing PO4 only produced from fish food instead of also removing large amount of PO4 already present in the water during the earlier stage. Just my 5 cents worth.
Whats your reading for both no3 and po4? How you run the bio pellets. I heard we have to add the pellets gradually.
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My reading for NO3 is maintaining between 0 to 0.25 currently (biopellets helps to pull down NO3 from 50 over 2 months time) & PO4 @ 0.04, both using D&D test kit. I run my biopellets using JNS Alpha 2 biopellet reactor, which comes with the pump. Rowa inside Two Little Fish 150 FR using Tunze mini universal pump, 300L per hour. Yes, you will have to start with small amount first & slowly add in till the required amount with biopellets. Starting with too much & too fast will cause bacteria bloom, causing cloudy water issue. Output from biopellet reactor have to be positioned near intake of skimmer. For my case (380L volume, tank & sump) i started with 100ml, slowly topping up to 800ml over 2 months when tank is stable & did not display cloudy issue. Now, I just need to top up when the level of the biopellets drop, indicating it is time to replenish. Take note that i myself experience cloudy water issue too, even when adding in slowly, for around 1 day. Imagine the situation would be worse if I did not do it slowly. Anyway, whatever we do, we have to do it slowly, to prevent 'shock' to the inhabitants inside the tank, unless emergency cases. For the equipment, either biopellet reactor or FR, you have to decide which brands suits your needs, as long as they are effective.

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My reading for NO3 is maintaining between 0 to 0.25 currently (biopellets helps to pull down NO3 from 50 over 2 months time) & PO4 @ 0.04, both using D&D test kit. I run my biopellets using JNS Alpha 2 biopellet reactor, which comes with the pump. Rowa inside Two Little Fish 150 FR using Tunze mini universal pump, 300L per hour. Yes, you will have to start with small amount first & slowly add in till the required amount with biopellets. Starting with too much & too fast will cause bacteria bloom, causing cloudy water issue. Output from biopellet reactor have to be positioned near intake of skimmer. For my case (380L volume, tank & sump) i started with 100ml, slowly topping up to 800ml over 2 months when tank is stable & did not display cloudy issue. Now, I just need to top up when the level of the biopellets drop, indicating it is time to replenish. Take note that i myself experience cloudy water issue too, even when adding in slowly, for around 1 day. Imagine the situation would be worse if I did not do it slowly. Anyway, whatever we do, we have to do it slowly, to prevent 'shock' to the inhabitants inside the tank, unless emergency cases. For the equipment, either biopellet reactor or FR, you have to decide which brands suits your needs, as long as they are effective.
Thanks bro. What biopellets brand u using ?
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Thats why the recommendion i have read in their home page is to add 25% to 50% of recommended quantity first. Add again after 1 week time. It should be safe if we follow that.

If the user does not know. Dangerous.

You do it right. But depends on the amount of water in the tank.

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even if you used too much biopellets upon addition which cause the bacteria bloom, the skimmer will pick them up and the cloudiness will ease over a few days. no need panic

The spirit of sharing...

always remember forum is like its name - forum

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Dun worry if u add in very slowly. And one more thing that u must make sure every single individual pellets is tumbling/ moving. Those not moving= dead spot= H2S production, which is deadly.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

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This paragraph are copied from their web:

You can't overdose* the NP Reducing BioPellets. Once your filtersystem is working optimal, the number of bacteria fluctuate according to the availability of nitates and phosphates. When the availability of nitrates and phosphates is low, the numbers of bacteria will decrease. When more nitrates and phosphates come available due to eg. feeding the numbers of bacteria will increase again as you can see in the example below.

So it's still safe even if u add too much pellets.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Bro Cheemi, u got do your homework by reading the label. :thumbsup:

Bacteria bloom will be normal. Biopellets are food source for the bacteria. I would be worried if there is no bacteria bloom, meaning the bacteria dun like the biopellets or the biopellets are fake, that will sure lead to failure. We are actually cutivitaing bacteria to help us remove the NO3. Adding slowly will be fine. Remember: Slowly is the key to success here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Do water change a few cycle. What test set you using?

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
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Reconfirm using another set of test kit, better to be of different brand. If you have just achieved zero NO3 & PO4, maybe there are still NO3 & PO4 leeching out of your 'live' rocks, but please confirm by test first. If NO3 & PO4 really zero, will take a few months to slowly 'clear' off that if that is the case. Water change is the more effective method. Tangs, sea urchins, blue legged hermits crabs, rabbit fish can be considered. But, you must research more & see whether they are compatible with your current livestock & whether any 'clashes' with futher plans for your tank. Err... take note, sea urchins also eat your coralline aglae. And the tangs, rabbitfishes... etc might not be 100% effective. Good luck.

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