Angry Ang Mo's Shallow SPS

[brent]

Just in time for the holiday, the Neptune Apex controller I ordered from the States finally arrived. I have to say that I am pretty impressed with it. I haven't received my voltage converter and so for now I'm just running the main controller off of a standard 12V DC adapter without the outlets. However, if I did it again, I probably would have saved my money and passed on the power bar since I get most of the functionality without it. The Vortech module controls the powerheads and the variable voltage ports control the lights. Neither require a powerbar and the issues of converting a 120V powerbar to 220V. (Don't bother buying their Neptune 12V DC adapter. I used a standard 12V 1A adapter and it works fine.)

I've set up the Vortech WMX module and it's pretty sweet. In just 30 minutes, I've got my MP40 synched with the controller and depending on the time of the day, it switches between Nutrient, Reef, and Lagoon modes automatically at various intensities.

The light dimming function (0-10V variable voltage ports) works great as well. It has a setting where it will slowly ramp up the lights. I also have it configured to peak at 100% around noon and then slowly ramp down. Apparently, this also works for controlling Tunze pumps.

Instead of spending $15 each for their special light dimming cable, I just used a standard Ethernet cable. Here are the pin outs if anyone needs one: http://web4.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1811885&page=2

They also have a free iPAD app that is quite functional and allows you monitor / change settings from anywhere.

If you do decide to get one, I wouldn't order from Premium Aquatics like I did. They are real pain with credit card verifications. I had to submit a copy of my cc, proof of address, and they still wanted to make some some small charges & verify the values. When I ordered, I requested a different pH probe than standard. I also asked them to pack it in a small box to save on volumetric weight and not state the cost on the invoice. In the end, they sent me the standard pH probe in a large box with an invoice stating the purchase price. It was the first and last time I will order from them.

Although I couldn't find any coupon codes, you might be able to get a discount if you email various suppliers. At least, this is what I heard after I had already placed my order. I don't think you will ever see the discounts listed publicly because it violates Neptune's reseller agreement.

Since I also have an RSM, later I might decide to get another one. If do get another one, I will probably just get the base unit with a temp & pH probes and not bother with the powerbar or display, which is a savings of $180.

[kelvinw]

Nice SPS ，Which aquarium shop got nice SPS seller

[tqut]

great journal. Hope you can help clear my doubts abiut these- - did you buy your wild colonies of SPS from the GO pre-order? I'm thinking of buying but afraid the wild colonies will not adapt well to an aquarium. - do you think the apex controller is worth the investment? thanks

[brent]

Nice SPS ，Which aquarium shop got nice SPS seller

Thanks. Most of my SPS are from other local reefers. I bought a majority of them from Cedric's packages.

great journal. Hope you can help clear my doubts abiut these- - did you buy your wild colonies of SPS from the GO pre-order? I'm thinking of buying but afraid the wild colonies will not adapt well to an aquarium. - do you think the apex controller is worth the investment? thanks

Thanks. The problematic wild colonies came from GO but it wasn't a pre-order. One of the colonies immediately changed from white to brown. Another was quite beautiful for a couple of months and then started developing STN. I have a 3rd one that has done great.

Last time I was at GO I bought some zoas and it had a small anemone that was purposefully placed on the rock. Luckily, I asked on the forum for an ID. It turns out that the anemone is was a Majano anemone, which is a terrible pest that is extremely difficult to eradicate after it gains a foothold in your tank. I nuked it before it had a chance to spread but after that experience, I'll never go back there.

In general, I would say that local frags are much more stable and suitable for beginners. I'm sure there are a lot of beginning reefers who go out and buy a bunch of wild colonies. Their tanks look great for about 1 month but then they have a full a brownout and quit the hobby. Wild colonies are not very forgiving and so I would recommend against them unless you know what you're doing.

Regarding the Apex controller, since I'm an American, it is much easier for me to get stuff from the States and a US warranty & 110V compatibility is desirable for me since most likely I will be eventually returning to the States. For Singaporeans, I would think long and hard about the delivery issues and warranty issues associated with buying something from the States. For my other tank (RSM), I've decided to DIY my own controller using an arduino board.

If you are using Vortech pumps and dimmable LEDs like I am, I think they are great. If you are not using them, then I would probably buy something else locally. In fact, I think a lot of controllers support dimmable LEDs and so I would say that the real benefit of the Apex is the Vortech controller. That being said, being able to tweak things like Vortech modes and LEDs is really a luxury instead of a necessity.

Unfortunately, there are no controllers on the market that will monitor the most important parameters for SPS: CA, KH, MG, Nitrate, & PO3. If you don't have good high quality test kits for these parameters, spend your money on the test kits and forget about controller. I think Salifert is a decent kit for the money but for some parameters like PO3, I really like the Hanna Checkers.

In my opinion, API kits are almost useless for SPS since they aren't that accurate and don't measure low levels of either Nitrate or Phosphate. I have two full sets of API test kits that I only ever use when cycling a tank because I haven't bothered buying other brands of ammonium and nitrite test kits since I rarely use them.

I would also buy an ATO long before buying a controller. ATOs are so critical for maintaining tank stability. It's difficult enough stabilizing CA & KH at a constant salinity. If you don't use an ATO and you're also chasing salinity, then just forget about keeping your other parameters stable.

[brent]

My controller has already proven some value. Even though I haven't had a chance to calibrate the ph probe, I still have it connected and it doesn't seem too far off. In any case, I was checking on something else and I noticed that pH graph didn't have the normal spike associated with my automatic doser adding alk every hour. I did a quick check of my dosing unit and it turns out that my dosing chamber had run out of alk solution.

[peacemaker]

What is the volume of your dosing chambers? Seem rather small for an SPS heavy setup.

[brent]

What is the volume of your dosing chambers? Seem rather small for an SPS heavy setup.

You are right. They are too small. Each one is about 1.5 L, which would have been fine on my old tank. When I designed it, I was dosing about 80ml per day in the rsm. I figured that i would be dosing 100ml per day in this one.

I miscalculated. This tank's consumption has increased significantly and now I'm dosing 220ml per day just to maintain stable kh and ca levels. This only leaves me with 1 week of supply which is a real pain.

[brent]

I've finally had enough of sand storms & sand drifts. Shallow tanks and sand just don't mix well. BB is my future

[tqut]

You are right. They are too small. Each one is about 1.5 L, which would have been fine on my old tank. When I designed it, I was dosing about 80ml per day in the rsm. I figured that i would be dosing 100ml per day in this one.

I miscalculated. This tank's consumption has increased significantly and now I'm dosing 220ml per day just to maintain stable kh and ca levels. This only leaves me with 1 week of supply which is a real pain.

Sorry if I missed it, but what solution are you dosing?

If you are mixing Alk, Cal & Mg yourself using material from Madpetz?

If so, can you make the solution more concentrated to reduce the amount you need to dose?

Thanks

[brent]

Sorry if I missed it, but what solution are you dosing?

If you are mixing Alk, Cal & Mg yourself using material from Madpetz?

If so, can you make the solution more concentrated to reduce the amount you need to dose?

Thanks

Yes, I am dosing two part using chemicals I bought from Iwarna.

It's a fine suggestion but I believe that the solutions are already fully saturated at the standard two part concentrations. (I'm following Randy's two part recipe.) If I make the solutions more concentrated, I believe the additional chemicals will just precipitate out.

In fact, I already need to heat the water in order to get the sodium carbonate fully dissolved.

[brent]

My DPDT ice cube relays arrived and so I've been wiring them up so I can control my 220V equipment on the 120V power bar. I would like to preempt my DIY description by saying that I'm not an electrician and I don't know anything about wiring or electricity. Working with 220V power is dangerous and if you want to do this, you should get someone to help you with much more experience than I have. Also, I always use GFCI outlets as an extra measure to help prevent shock around my tanks.


That being said, this is what I did:

I am planning to use three relays:

1. Return Pump & Skimmer (on the same relay)

2. Backup Chiller

3. T5 Lights


I ordered 120V DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) ice cube relays with sockets for wiring them up:

http://sg.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=h3Xc2LqAealUHVBqYsNmcw%3D%3D

http://sg.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Magnecraft-Schneider-Electric/70-459-1/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhd44dwsOGTU1ZXsrWMkUAcnzbpuLblr4M%3d



These will allow me to turn on and off 220V devices using the 120V APEX Powerbar without buying 120V devices and converting power from 120V to 220V.

Instead of trying to explain how to wire them up and how they work, I figured I would just post a link to this site:

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/How-to-connect-a-double-pole-double-throw-relay-in-a-circuit

1. Return Pump & Skimmer

I will use the 1st relay for the pump and skimmer so I can program a feed mode that turns off all water flow. I am turning off the skimmer at the same time as the return pump because I don't want the skimmer to overflow when the water level rises from turning off the return pump.
I plan to only use 6 of the 8 terminals on the relay. I've decided to use the NC terminals for the skimmer & pump instead of the NO terminals. The NC (normally closed) terminals are activated when is there is no power. This means that if something goes wrong with controller and it loses power, the circuits will fail open. It might seem a bit counter intuitive, but when I want to turn off the pump, I will need to turn on the Apex outlet connected to the relay. So, as part of the Apex feed mode, I will program it to turn on the power outlet connected to the return pump & skimmer relay when the feed mode is activated.

The connections from the main power supply go to the COM (or Common)

Here is how I am connecting the DPDT relay for the return pump & skimmer:

Terminal # / Wire
13 / 120v positive (Coil)
14 / 120v negative (Coil)

9 / 220v positive from wall (COM+)
12 / 220v negative from wall (COM-)

5 / not used (NO+)
8 / not used (NO-)

1 / 220v positive from the pump (NC+)
4 / 220v negative from the pump (NC-)



The 2nd and 3rd relays are for the backup chiller and the T5s, I will use the NO (Normally Open) terminals because I want the circuit to fail closed. If there are any issues, I want to lights and backup chiller to remain off. Everything else remains the same.

5 / 220v positive from the appliance (NO+)
8 / 220v negative from the pump (NO-)

1 / not used (NC+)
4 / not used (NC-)


I've tested the first relay and it works fine. Without any 120V power, the outlets are on. When I turn on the 120V power, the outlets turn off. Each relay can handle 15A, which is way more than I need. I still need to find a suitable enclosure for the relay so they don't have the power terminals exposed.

Here are some blurry photos of the finished product.:

[tqut]

These will allow me to turn on and off 220V devices using the 120V APEX Powerbar without buying 120V devices and converting power from 120V to 220V.

Interesting more effective way of working around a step down converter

From personal experience, step down converters don't last long if they are ran 24/7, at least mine never did. They always fail after I switch them off to do some weekly tank maintenance...