New To The Saltwaters

[JoeyBabooey]

Hello everybody!

I have learnt a lot from all the posts here and i would like to thank everyone who have been so helpful in sharing their knowledge of this hobby.

A small introduction of this post; I have been keeping freshwater fishes for as long as I have remembered and had been battling with myself about keeping a reef aquarium. Well, after what have been almost a year or so, i have decided to take the plunge. Oh! and also to mark my 20th tank, i also figured why not?

After the past month of giving myself a 'crash course' in everything marine, i have come up with my ideal reef aquarium setup and i hope the experienced here could help vet through my choices.

I am aware that this is going to be a long, tiring and expensive process but i believe the end point is well worth it all. I am an impatient fella and this will be the ultimate test! haha! But please bare with me as it would take awhile (a few months) to share my journey little by little with everyone from the day i receive my new tank.

Here are the what i have planned to do...

Tank: 4x2x2 (12mm)

Sump: 3 compartments inclusive of refugium in the center compartment

Refugium: Deep Sand Bed with Miracle Mud, Live rock rubble and Chaetomorpha

Protein Skimmer: SKIMZ SM161 (internal)- rated for up to 1200L tanks.

Lighting: 2 x 150W Metal Halide

4 x 54W T5 tubes

Total of 516W

Chiller: Hailea HS-66A 1/4HP

Reactors: - TLF Phosban Reactor 550 (Phosphate removal)

- Fluidized Reacter for BioPellets (Nitrate removal)

Wavemakers: Tunze Multi controller 7095 with 2x Tunze Turbelle Stream 6065 (up to 6500L/Hr)

That being said, I have a few questions.

1) With regards to the return pump from my sump, which pump flow rate would be most beneficial? I am sitting between an Eheim Universal 1262 (3400L/Hr) or Eheim Universal 1264 (4500L/Hr). Because i have a refugium, should i go with the slower flow? I somehow feel that 3400L/Hr might end up being too slow due to the height and angles of the piping and 4500L/hr might be too fast.

2) About the Deep Sand Bed in main tank and refugium; i understand that the best average size of the sand should be 0.125mm. However, i have only come across live sand from CaribSea in Singapore with the average grain size of 0.5mm to 1mm. (CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahama Oolite). Is there another brand of live sand or another from Caribsea with that ideal size that is LIVE SAND (not dry)?

3) Do you think the water flow from the above mentioned wavemakers sufficient?

These are my heaviest questions thus far. I would really appreciate your insight and many thanks in advance!

[gymbvolka]

I choose 1264 for 4 ft. The overall tank turn over rate should be at least 10 X ( total volume of the tank + sump volume)/ hr and we have to minus the head loss of the sump to the main tank height.

my 2 cents

[JoeyBabooey]

OH! and to share my intended stocking list for inspection from you guys...

Corals

- I'll start off with mushrooms and zoas and then move up with softies and LPS corals. Strictly NO SPS... for now

Fishes

- A helpful collection of inverts like a Coral banded shrimp and a couple of snails and hermit crabs.

(is it true that i cannot keep other shrimps together with a coral banded shrimp? not even with caution? I'm a sucker for shrimps.)

- One Spot Foxface

- Yellow Tang

- Flame Angel or Coral Beauty Angel

- Clownfish (of course)

and a small selection of smaller fishes like a goby, blenny, dartfish, dottyback and Flasher Wrasse.

* Silly question but if my flow is not too strong in the front of the tank, could i keep a couple of bigger seahorses? My girlfriend really like them. ALOT. =/

Once again thanks for your time in reading my post.

[JoeyBabooey]

I choose 1264 for 4 ft. The overall tank turn over rate should be at least 10 X ( total volume of the tank + sump volume)/ hr and we have to minus the head loss of the sump to the main tank height.

my 2 cents

Thank you so much, gymbvolka! That makes perfect sense.

[nettian]

i conside to upgade my tank, question:Chiller: Hailea HS-66A 1/4HP enough for 4 feet tank?

[JoeyBabooey]

i conside to upgade my tank, question:Chiller: Hailea HS-66A 1/4HP enough for 4 feet tank?

Hey there nettian!

Thanks for dropping by!

I believe is it enough? it is rated for up to 800 Liters of water. The 422 including sump will have a total max volume of 500 - 550 Liters.

I have used a 1/10HP chiller (rated for 400L) for my 2ft (60L) shrimp tank and it kept kicking in many times but for a short period of time which burnt it out.

I dont mind spending that extra $100 for a 1/2HP chiller (everyone would love a more powerful machine) but i feel that less kick-in but longer period is better?

Any other views and insights about this?

[Kakani]

If you intend to keep sps in near further why not get lighting that can support sps to. Use all T5 will be a better choice in case u want to jump to sps

[JoeyBabooey]

If you intend to keep sps in near further why not get lighting that can support sps to. Use all T5 will be a better choice in case u want to jump to sps

Sorry bro Kakani,

I am a little confused... do SPS corals do better with T5 over Metal Halides? I thought because Metal Halides offer the most wattage. If i were to use all T5, i dont think I have space on the tank to fit 2 x 4 tube lightsets. Max 8 Tubes which is 8 X 54W = 432W or 3.9W per gallon. Is that sufficient?

PS; Honestly I really wish i could eventually 'graduate' to SPS corals but I highly doubt i have it in me for that extra attention to give... Unless i strike lottery and make everything automated! hahaha! But in all seriousness, I really hate to feel guilty when something as precious as a coral or any livestock for that matter dies because of my inadequate care... which i cannot give to SPS corals =(

[kaykay]

<p>Hi Joey, welcome to the salty world.I would like to share my views. 1. Go for the higher flow 1264. There's only benefits to it when more water volume can be renewed every second. I'm already using a 2,800lph on my 200L nano.2. Refugiums should be a slow flow section. It should not be in the inline flow of return. Most reefers will build a separate compartment in the sump tank, with the flow T-off from the down pipe.Go check out Madpetz refugiums in both his display tanks and you'll get a pretty good idea.3. Your lights are good for most coral keeping, even sps. They do, however, generate a good amount of heat too. So this leads me to...4. Chilling. A 1/4hp chiller barely just cuts it for your volume and lighting equipment. It's always better time spec up equipment. A higher rated chiller will chill down water faster, and thus run less. Thus prolonging your equipment life.

[kaykay]

Sorry got jumbled up. Ignore the above.

Hi Joey, welcome to the salty world.I would like to share my views.

1. Go for the higher flow 1264. There's only benefits to it when more water volume can be renewed every second. I'm already using a 2,800lph on my 200L nano.

2. Refugiums should be a slow flow section. It should not be in the inline flow of return. Most reefers will build a separate compartment in the sump tank, with the flow T-off from the down pipe.

Go check out Madpetz refugiums in both his display tanks and you'll get a pretty good idea.

3. Your lights are good for most coral keeping, even sps. They do, however, generate a good amount of heat too. So this leads me to...

4. Chilling. A 1/4hp chiller barely just cuts it for your volume and lighting equipment. It's always better time spec up equipment. A higher rated chiller will chill down water faster,  and thus run less. Thus prolonging your equipment life.

[kaykay]

My 1/4hp chiller on my old 100L tank only kicks in 15 times a day. You have to match a feeder pump flowrate accordingly. I previously used a slower feeder, and it kicked in more than 3 times an hour. Once I changed to a higher flow feeder, problem solved.

The rest of your equipment list looks good!

You may also wanna consider keeping the intended seahorses in the refugium (low flow).

[gymbvolka]

My 1/4hp chiller on my old 100L tank only kicks in 15 times a day. You have to match a feeder pump flowrate accordingly. I previously used a slower feeder, and it kicked in more than 3 times an hour. Once I changed to a higher flow feeder, problem solved.

The rest of your equipment list looks good!

You may also wanna consider keeping the intended seahorses in the refugium (low flow).

Seahorse prefer low light also right? is best to keep seahorse in another special compartment.

[gymbvolka]

Hey there nettian!

Thanks for dropping by!

I believe is it enough? it is rated for up to 800 Liters of water. The 422 including sump will have a total max volume of 500 - 550 Liters.

I have used a 1/10HP chiller (rated for 400L) for my 2ft (60L) shrimp tank and it kept kicking in many times but for a short period of time which burnt it out.

I dont mind spending that extra $100 for a 1/2HP chiller (everyone would love a more powerful machine) but i feel that less kick-in but longer period is better?

Any other views and insights about this?

1/10 chiller from artica? it should support 2 ft well. if it burnt out so fast, i think the chiller is faulty and maybe is an old equipment.

[JoeyBabooey]

Sorry got jumbled up. Ignore the above.

Hi Joey, welcome to the salty world.I would like to share my views.

Hello Kaykay! Thank you so much for your time and input! Very valuable indeed!

1. Go for the higher flow 1264. There's only benefits to it when more water volume can be renewed every second. I'm already using a 2,800lph on my 200L nano.

Wow! 200L is considered a nano?! I guess a 422 is a small tank then! On second thought... it actually is! Yup! I will definitely go with a 1264 now =) after looking at the hard plumbing... i wish the 1264 was a little more powerful! The Eheim Compact+ 5000 apparently is not what it states it is =/

2. Refugiums should be a slow flow section. It should not be in the inline flow of return. Most reefers will build a separate compartment in the sump tank, with the flow T-off from the down pipe.

Go check out Madpetz refugiums in both his display tanks and you'll get a pretty good idea.

Ahh! I see... I didnt know that you could re-route water through your sump. I think maybe i should give a go at DIY-ing a refugium? Thats what confused me because i see refugiums on the internet that are right in the fast flow on the main sump and it baffled me because i know what refugiums need a low flow rate. I havent gotten to chance to visit MadPetz but i will do very soon!

3. Your lights are good for most coral keeping, even sps. They do, however, generate a good amount of heat too. So this leads me to...

Yup! I have definitely heard MH lights give off a lot of heat... but i havent had a chance to know for myself 'how hot is hot' (that is could affect greatly the water temp)? I guess i will find out...

4. Chilling. A 1/4hp chiller barely just cuts it for your volume and lighting equipment. It's always better time spec up equipment. A higher rated chiller will chill down water faster, and thus run less. Thus prolonging your equipment life.

Okay! I get what you mean now! Essentially, as long as i know there really is no harm in running a spec up chiller then i have no qualms 'upgrading' my wish list =) Thanks for this tip!

My 1/4hp chiller on my old 100L tank only kicks in 15 times a day. You have to match a feeder pump flowrate accordingly. I previously used a slower feeder, and it kicked in more than 3 times an hour. Once I changed to a higher flow feeder, problem solved.

The rest of your equipment list looks good!

You may also wanna consider keeping the intended seahorses in the refugium (low flow).

Yeah! I really shouldn't push the limit with the seahorses in the DT, huh. I realize its either i put them in the refugium or get them in a species only tank... oh boy that is so hard to convince my parents..

Anyway, thank you for your input. Its greatly appreciated!

I actually would love to organize a LFS outing sometime in the near future and meet new salt kakis in the process. Its impossible to convert my freshwater kakis over to marine =( I drive so i'd be happy to go to LFS-es from West to East over the weekend. =)

[JoeyBabooey]

Seahorse prefer low light also right? is best to keep seahorse in another special compartment.

Thanks for your replies, gymbvolka!

I'm not too sure about seahorses preferring low light but i'll go look it up! =) yea.. i have to agree that i will have to keep them separately!

1/10 chiller from artica? it should support 2 ft well. if it burnt out so fast, i think the chiller is faulty and maybe is an old equipment.

Nah.. i cant afford the Artica chiller as much as i want to! Mine was a brand new Hailea and had warantied it once before as well! Perhaps thats why they released the HS versions now... Mine was the older and more noisy HC models =/ Thanks again for your time, bro!