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Fauna Marin Color Elements


Admiraltian
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Hi, Would like to hear from users of FM color element how is this product performance and reviews based on your experience with it and share with the rest of the reefers how is effects before and after using it on your sps tank. Your reviews will be appreciated. :ThanxSmiley:

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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First off, it seems that your tank may have water quality issues if you sps corals are turning brown in colour. Rectify that first before using additives like reef color elements to tweak colours. Browning is caused by high nitrate and phosphate levels and sometimes by sudden spikes or drops in alkalinity.

With nutrient poor water, reef color elements works very well in enhancing SPS coral colours as evidenced by my tank.

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I'll check that my no3 and po4 levels are pretty low at 0.5 and 0.08ppm respectively using D-D test kit. Could be my KH swing. Actually I only got two sps turning brown, one is german blue digtata and the other is the blue milepora which I heard is hard to maintain its color. I got a few questions, does this product, color elements need to be use in conjunction with FM balling light and pro sea salt in order to be effective? And if juz solely using this color elements, does this eliminate the use of dosing other trace elements as supplement? Hope to hear more advices. Thanks.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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I'll check that my no3 and po4 levels are pretty low at 0.5 and 0.08ppm respectively using D-D test kit. Could be my KH swing. Actually I only got two sps turning brown, one is german blue digtata and the other is the blue milepora which I heard is hard to maintain its color. I got a few questions, does this product, color elements need to be use in conjunction with FM balling light and pro sea salt in order to be effective? And if juz solely using this color elements, does this eliminate the use of dosing other trace elements as supplement? Hope to hear more advices. Thanks.

A phosphate level of 0.08 is rather high for keeping SPS corals especially for the more sensitive ones. The preferred range would be anything from 0.04 downwards. Also, titration test kits are completely useless in measuring PO4 levels as they do not detect organic phospates. A Hanna PO4 checker is the only reliable home test kit.

The Reef Color elements are meant to be standalone products to be used in nutrient poor water as a means of tweaking certain colours. They only enhance colours and to some extent calcification/ growth and do not replace the mandatory addition of calcium, bicarbonate and magnesium as well as regular water changes.

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A phosphate level of 0.08 is rather high for keeping SPS corals especially for the more sensitive ones. The preferred range would be anything from 0.04 downwards. Also, titration test kits are completely useless in measuring PO4 levels as they do not detect organic phospates. A Hanna PO4 checker is the only reliable home test kit.

The Reef Color elements are meant to be standalone products to be used in nutrient poor water as a means of tweaking certain colours. They only enhance colours and to some extent calcification/ growth and do not replace the mandatory addition of calcium, bicarbonate and magnesium as well as regular water changes.

Ok, for the Hanna checker, which is more accurate, the phosphate one or the phosphorous one?

Actually I'm not referring to not dosing ca, kh & mg. Juz other trace elements alone. I'm been dosing TM coral minerals since when I started reefing.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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Ok, for the Hanna checker, which is more accurate, the phosphate one or the phosphorous one?

Actually I'm not referring to not dosing ca, kh & mg. Juz other trace elements alone. I'm been dosing TM coral minerals since when I started reefing.

Use Hanna phosphate checker. I have not used a phosphorous checker before.

I don't think dosing trace elements is necessary if regular water changes are being done.

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Use Hanna phosphate checker. I have not used a phosphorous checker before.

I don't think dosing trace elements is necessary if regular water changes are being done.

Oic, thanks for the advice. Will try to lower my po4 level first. Btw where to buy this checker?

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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There is a thread in SRC which stated where to buy hanna checkers. The search function would yield the thread.

Ok, thanks.

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Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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