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3 x 3ft SPS dominated tank


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Sounds logical because I saw them playing with sandbed at LFS. Mine sleep on tank bottom (literally lying down one sided), "naked" instead of hiding under the sand. Even my Yasha Goby die for no apparent reason despite eating well and swim around middle section to grab for food.

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Sounds logical because I saw them playing with sandbed at LFS. Mine sleep on tank bottom (literally lying down one sided), "naked" instead of hiding under the sand. Even my Yasha Goby die for no apparent reason despite eating well and swim around middle section to grab for food.

I have the same exact experience with Yellow Wrasse. I lost 2 this way and 1 to jumping. I am also running a BB tank...I have seen yellow wrasse in BB tanks before but those tanks had LR pile in the whole tank. Anyway, I won't try another sand dwelling wrasse, too heart breaking to see a fish die for no reason :(

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added very shallow sand bed to my tank yesterday with 3 sand shifter starfish. Removed 3 acros and dip into coral RX which killed off over 10 AEFW. Currently no acro in my tank and hopefully AEFW will starve to death.

cute couple in my tank.

8481434077_583575f834.jpg

8482515460_81fee98d2c.jpg

8482515540_151b7d6983.jpg

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Will post picture soon. No sand storm. I turned down all my vortech and slowly add clean sand using a small net. Took quite a while to cover 80% tank bottom. I will add more to cover 100% this coming weekend. Don't want to upset tank balance too much for now.

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Picture a little dark cause it was taken during "deep blue" mode.

I am not sure what sand but it was cheap sand labelled C-3 on10kg gunny sack.

Size C3 coral chips.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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I have dosing pump but it is not turned on at the moment. Currently i am doing 2 x water change weekly (+-50 litres x 2) and only tested salinity. No other parameter test is performed. A little unorthodox but works well so far. So far corals are doing fine and no sign of AEFW. SPS is growing and color started to recover back. On top of that, i am trying to establish routine maintenance that will suit me best. Zeo RX is removed but i am still dosing zeo basic + supplement as usual so basically tank is left with skimmer and filter bag containing rowa carbon (passive flow). My plan is to run this tank with minimal equipment.

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Sorry to read about your experience with the maricultured piece. Personally, I find maricultured sps corals to have even more pests and unwanted algae than the wild colonies. That's why the no exception rule is applicable to each and every of them when it comes to dipping and basting - let the wrasses do the rest.

+1

Honkit raised an interesting yet profound observation between wild and maricultured sps.

Some of those video clips on the mariculture farms, the sps are raised on rows and rows of platforms on very open water without natural reef near by...which probably means lesser pest predatory fish to help clean up the sps. On the other hand, wild sps colonies are situated on coral reefs where a variety of pest eating fishes such as wrasses are abundant, hence lowering the amount of pest.

Treat others the way you wanna be treated...

 

 

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Nice colors on the icy tort and ice fire echinata.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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Can tell expert at work....beautiful corals

  • Like 1

Cheers,

James

Reviving my reef tank :

Crystal glass 53" x 22" x 17" rimless (inclusive of 12"x22"x17" IOS)

Life Reef HVS3-24 with mazzei venturi

ATI Sunpower 8 x 39w T5 (4 x Blue plus, 2 x Aqua blue special, Coral plus)

ZET Light 3 x 3w LEDs moonlight

Arctica 1/3 Hp + 1/4 Hp back up

Vortech mp40w x 3 + Jebao wp25

Eheim 1264 x 3 + water blaster 5000

Vortech back up battery

TLF-150 + Rowaphos

Activated carbon

Kamoer 3 channel + CaCl2 + NaHCo3

150L Refugium with DSB, miracle mud, cheato

2ft T5 x 2 light tubes for refugium

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