Did I start my aquarium well in the first place ?

[carolyc]

Hi guys

I bought one of those all-in-one tanks to start my first marine aquarium. 25 gallons, with a black plastic cover and three flourescent tubes (2 white, 1 red). I added an additional air pump and was patient and listened to my LFS who said no fish till at least a month.

So I put the substrate (crushed coral), added 14kg of live rock and let the system cycle.

I've had the tank now for three months and in it I currently have 2 clown fish, 1 neon damsel, 1 firefish, 1 bubble tip anemone, 1 fan tube worm, 2 peppermint shrimp, 1 banded cleaner shrimp and 1 skunk cleaner shrimp.

They all look ok, but I suspect that things in my tank are not going too well. The reading on my tank are:

pH 8.3

Nitrates 0.1

I change about 10% water every other week with salt water that I make up myself.

The reason why I suspect things are not too well are that in the short three months I have had many deaths and I want to make sure that it's all ok with the current inhabitants before I go and change or add anything.

Snails just don't seem to live more than a week in my tank. They eat like their hungry hungry hippos and then just slow down and then die.

I've lost 2 bubble tip anemones - they were fine and healthy when I bought them, looked fine when I first put them in the tank, then after about 2 weeks they lose all their colour and or just don't open up and then died.

2 fan tube worms have dropped their crowns and I don't know if they are still alive and I want to find out what stressed them so much for them to drop their crowns. The shrimp all leave them alone BTW.

I have lost one firefish completely. It was there one day and not there the next. No signs of it being ill - no spots, eating well etc, but one day only one firefish emerged from their usual bolthole.

I get algae in the tank - of the red variety. It seems to disappear when the light is off and once the light comes on, after an hour, all the rocks are covered in it. I removed one of the white flourescent tubes (white aqua sun 24W) at the advice of my LFS who said it was too hot and it's a bit less, but still happens.

SO after that lengthy explanation, my question to this forum is:

Any thoughts or advice on what I am doing wrong ? My LFS says that a marine tank takes about 6 months for the water to mature before it becomes healthy. Am I just experiencing teething problems ?

What do I do with my lighting ? I wouldn't mind changing to a system where I can use metal halides or compact flourescents, but nothing I read says flourescents are bad for tanks.

Why do I get so much algae ?

What water do you use when you do a water change ? Every online forum says you MUST use RO/DI water but I can't even find these at the fish shop and the ones I see online are super expensive.

Overall, I just want to have a healthy tank with happy inhabitants !

[John Deroe Kenedy]

Do u have any full parametes to provide?

Salinity, Alkalinity, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates, Po4... Tempreature?

Do u have a skimmer?

Bubble tip anemone maybe due tank not mature enough...

Algae most prob due to High Nutrients levels..

Ro/Di is a must... If u dont have Ro/Di system, buy Distilled Bottled water.

[carolyc]

Thanks John

I just tested everything again, 1.025 salinity, temp 27c, alkalinity 8.0, nitrite 0,3. I don't have testers for phosphate, nitrates or ammonia (perhaps that's my next step!). I don't have a skimmer because the system has a closed lid, so I can't fit a skimmer in. My LFS also told me that for my sized tank and for the fish I have I probably don't need one?

And do you have recommendations on where to buy an RO/DI system here in Singapore? They all seem to come from the US. Also, are they heavy and bulky? I will be traveling to the US shortly so might be able to bring a system back myself.

Thank you!

[John Deroe Kenedy]

Salinity, Temp, Alk = ok

Do test for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates.. Ammonia n Nitrites both should be 0ppm.. as its toxic to ur livestock.. Nitrate as low as possible...

Algae Feeds on Po4, so do check the parameters.

25 gallon tank, u do need a skimmer

Ro/Di u maybe can try Iwarna.. But I'm not sure... U can buy 'Life' Distilled Bottled water at NTUC...

[kaykay]

Bro, you will require some form of nutrient export.

Most reefers use a skimmer to remove the inorganic waste in the tank. If you do not have space at all for a skimmer, you can use a small algae scrubber to remove the organic waste. You can read more here:

I'm currently running this without a skimmer. Nutrient levels are under control without livestock casualties in the last few weeks.

Phosphates can be controlled easily with a bag of phosphate removing media in the iOS (if you have) of your tank.

Your salinity, pH levels, and temperature are fine.

[kaykay]

RO/DI units are available in a few of our sponsor LFSes. Price is also very reasonable.

Check out their websites and make your choice.

[VelvetAirwaves]

Red light encourages the growth of algae. I would remove the stock reds and change to actinic blues. Should bring down the algae problem a little bit.

Secondly, don't believe what lfs say all the time, do your own research online. As long as you cycle your tank properly and slowly introduce the inhabitants, there should not be any problem.

Thirdly, 0.3 for nitrate is actually quite negligible, I would test for phosphates and ammonia too.

Apart from that, temperature is also another impt issue, if your temps are constantly fluctuating, your corals won't be happy at all.

[carolyc]

Thanks all for your comments. Think first step is to get testers for my nitrates and phosphates and ammonia. Thanks for the tip on the red light JimmiPaige and kaykay, Thanks! I will check out who has an RO/DI system in stock, I can't carry so much distiller water from the shops

[John Deroe Kenedy]

Thanks all for your comments. Think first step is to get testers for my nitrates and phosphates and ammonia. Thanks for the tip on the red light JimmiPaige and kaykay, Thanks! I will check out who has an RO/DI system in stock, I can't carry so much distiller water from the shops

MadPetz: has ZeRo Ro/Di Unit.. Quite Resonable Pricing. 4 Stage $220+, 5 Stage $260

[blondmyth]

had to buy 4 cartons of distilled water from NTUC over two days as madpetz did not have stock for the DI 3 stage. not fun bringing home 48 bottles of water.

finally my DI set up arrived yest. no more trips to NTUC for water from now on.

[carolyc]

Thanks again all, I went online to MadPetz and found the RO/DI unit. My next question (and forgive me if this sounds silly) but how do you actually use it ? I understand how it works, but do I have to have it plumbed into my water supply ? Or can I simply attach/detach as needed ? I am renting so I need to make sure it's not something permanent. I have tried to look online but all the articles just tell me how RO/DI systems work, not how you physically use them.

KayKay, I have those phosphate removing balls that I have in a bag and placed under the mechanical filter.

[John Deroe Kenedy]

Thanks again all, I went online to MadPetz and found the RO/DI unit. My next question (and forgive me if this sounds silly) but how do you actually use it ? I understand how it works, but do I have to have it plumbed into my water supply ? Or can I simply attach/detach as needed ? I am renting so I need to make sure it's not something permanent. I have tried to look online but all the articles just tell me how RO/DI systems work, not how you physically use them.

KayKay, I have those phosphate removing balls that I have in a bag and placed under the mechanical filter.

Yah good qns, i also want to know how to setup those RO/DI system.. I wanted to buy the 5 stage RO/DI but my house doenst have those sink with PVC piping underneath the sink.. I only have it only in my kitchen sink cabinet, but i dare not use it bcoz its disgusting..

[kaykay]

Thanks again all, I went online to MadPetz and found the RO/DI unit. My next question (and forgive me if this sounds silly) but how do you actually use it ? I understand how it works, but do I have to have it plumbed into my water supply ? Or can I simply attach/detach as needed ? I am renting so I need to make sure it's not something permanent. I have tried to look online but all the articles just tell me how RO/DI systems work, not how you physically use them.

KayKay, I have those phosphate removing balls that I have in a bag and placed under the mechanical filter.

Hi Carolyc,

You can use quick disconnect faucets and connectors to do the job. Example here http://www.claberinc.com/products/irrigation.asp?pn=2&fm=55&sz=34

I once got the Y-faucet, and split the washing machine outlet to one for RO/DI permanently.

Even if you cannot fix it permanently, you can always leave the Y-faucet there, just turn off the RO/DI side when you're done, and use the quick disconnect to easily store the RO/DI set away till you want to use it again.

Such sets can be bought aplenty in hardware shops around Sungei Road area, or any other hardware shops (slightly more exp).

You can choose branded fittings like "Claber", or cheaper generic brands.

Just make sure the fitting size fit the RO/DI set you have.

HTH.

[kaykay]

Something like this..

[kaykay]

Well, if you have not bought the RO/DI unit, and would like to save some $$, you may want to DIY, like what I'm doing. I'm doing 30L of DI water every fortnight for water change and for topping up.

See post #23 of my thread here.

PM me if you need more help. I have some spare resin you can take to try.

[John Deroe Kenedy]

Well, if you have not bought the RO/DI unit, and would like to save some $$, you may want to DIY, like what I'm doing. I'm doing 30L of DI water every fortnight for water change and for topping up.

See post #23 of my thread here.

PM me if you need more help. I have some spare resin you can take to try.

I'm using your way right now but with a 1 stage water purifier(Carbon n DI Resin) that i bought wrongly.. Run it with a powerhead in a fish tank with cover...