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Basic Questions


lona
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Hi all,

Would appreciate any info anyone can offer, because I'm considering setting up a mini reef, but even the basic websites I've read confuses me..so I've got some questions to figure out to make sure I've understood them correctly, so here goes:

1. Live rock and coral is NOT the same, correct?

2. Live rock does not need the actinic/florescent/50-50 lights that I keep hearing mentioned, correct?

3. Is it possible to set up a bare minimum system on a shoestring budget and then slowly build it up? I'm thinking of setting up a DSB and some porous live rock. Coupled with a powerhead, would this be enough? I mean, will I need a sump and a skimmer?

4. When people say, for example, I'll need 1lb of live rock per 1gal of water, (and this I've read on a basic site, so I'd like confirmation), and since I have a 3ftx1ftx1ft glass tank, for subsequent flow rates using the powerhead, do I subtract away the volume of the live rock to get the volume of water that I have,then multiply that by 5 to get the appropriate flow rate?

5. I've also read that I'm supposed to use RO or DI water with the salt mix..is that what everyone here is doing? Or is normal tap water being used?

I've got a whole bunch more questions, but I think this should be enough for now..Thanks a whole lot to anyone who could help me.

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1. Live rock and coral is NOT the same, correct?

*VERY CORRECT- cycle your tank with live rock(LR) not corals.

2. Live rock does not need the actinic/florescent/50-50 lights that I keep hearing mentioned, correct?

*No, but a FL light on won't do any harm,may even help other growth found on LR.

3. Is it possible to set up a bare minimum system on a shoestring budget and then slowly build it up? I'm thinking of setting up a DSB and some porous live rock. Coupled with a powerhead, would this be enough? I mean, will I need a sump and a skimmer?

*Do it once, do it good. All depends on your budget, if u can afford it-don't stinge in the begining-go for a sump & drilled overflow. Otherwise if really tight then the above will do but u must watch your stocking levels very very closely. upgrading later on will be more expensive & the 'upgrading' never ends> hmmm want better skimmer,better lights,bigger tank,more fish,more dosing elements etc

plus u going for a DSB(min) & your tank height only 1ft(12")- so u loose 3"-4" immediately to the sand & u won't fill to tank rim so another couple of inches lost.

4. When people say, for example, I'll need 1lb of live rock per 1gal of water, (and this I've read on a basic site, so I'd like confirmation), and since I have a 3ftx1ftx1ft glass tank, for subsequent flow rates using the powerhead, do I subtract away the volume of the live rock to get the volume of water that I have,then multiply that by 5 to get the appropriate flow rate?

*very detailed, but also include the dsb as that displaces water as well

& only multiply the water level only to get the total volume-not the whole tank.

5. I've also read that I'm supposed to use RO or DI water with the salt mix..is that what everyone here is doing? Or is normal tap water being used?

*that's what a percentage is doing, the rest just use a declhorinator(recognised brand that also treats chloramine) added to Tap water & let it stand a few hours(i prefer overnight).

Seachem prime is a good product to use.

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Hi Bawater,

Thanks for the info, really appreciate it, just a couple more questions for today..*smile*..

1. I went to a shop in Marine Parade just now, but found out he's stopped selling temporary for the Chinese New Year, he says he'll start again after. I asked him about LS, but since he didn't have I couldn't see how fine it is. He showed me some 'sand' (it didn't look like sand to me..ha..but what do I know..), anyways, the 'sand' looked like small stones..something like 5mm radius stones..I'm wondering how fine the actual live sand is. I've also read about #1 sand..how fine is that?

2. I've read that some people actually buy normal sand but use live rocks and allow some of the rock's inhabitants to move to the sand, making it 'live'..anyone has experience with that? What kind of normal sand grid should I use? Is a uniform grid better? Or would different layers of different grid be the same?

3. So, Bawater, you were saying I should subtract the vol of rock and sand and that's my water volume, which means, actually my powerhead water movement does not need to be very high right? I know what you mean about upgrading, there's always always that, but my project objective for now is to learn the basics first, without causing too many casualties..(bad karma, you see)..I plan to put what I learn into my future home..because I envision my home to have a reef tank, and that's when I want to 'do it once, do it good' like you say...

4. Just to confirm as well, I've read 1inch of fish per 5gal water, correct?

5. Is there a similar 'rate' for coral as well?

Thanks again for any info given..really appreciate it.

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1. what u see is coral chips, coral sand come in many different sizes.

No.1 sand is the smallest(sold out almost everywhere) but no.0(if i can call it that)is sugar fine(powder like).Limited stocks in SG.

When u buy LS(live sand) usually u getting beneficial bacteria already colonized on the substrate.So since u can't see bacteria there's no guarantee its there unless u buy those retail advertised packs-mentioning that its live.

Its not very live unless apart from bacteria u also get worms,miro-fauna & all the creepy crawlies so seeding yourself is a safer bet if this cost more than normal sand.

marine parade...hmmmm if u go up the road(Joo chiat) to onan rd, kwangs is there,another LFS for u to visit .

2. i use that method of LR seeding live sand,it does work but take a couple of months. The grid(light diffuser) u mentioned is to stop animals moving the sand too much & also to support the rockwork so it doesn't compact the sand.u can separate the sand layers by using a fine mesh,but not many ppl bother with this. Me being one of them.

3. yes, that your volume,counting water displacement and since u not calculating the filtration turnover & only water movement then its not really accurate to just count turnover, u want circulation & pointing 2 powerheads at each other from opposite ends of the tank would provide much better movement than a big 2000ltr powerhead circulating water in one direction which doesn't seem natural does it?unless they live in a reef river where everything goes in one direction> how u move your water is your personal preference really,everybody got their own way.

check out the reef thread- there a whole lot of posts on water circulation.

4. remember that sum is the total length the fish will grow to & not the size u got it at(e.g a small grouper u got at 2" will end up 12"or 15" in 15mths). again this depends very much on your filtration capabilities,for example if u use a under gravel for a 2ft- 2-3 clown size fishes will be safe but 6 of them & u may encounter algae problems,ammonia spikes etc. so this i cannot say for sure until i check,maybe others will help.

5. i don't want to give u wrong answers so i have to pass on this , i believe so as they are living creatures & some do excrete visible wastes,but stocking wise i can't say. usually your water parameters(u will be able to tell if u watch them closely) & lighting is your gauge on what & how much u can keep.

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a $40 fan from the most LFS will keep the tank at 28c-very hot weather maybe 29c

if u want 26c then either u need a chiller(if u say under shade meaning outdoors?) or position the tank in an aircon room.

30c will not benefit many corals. But fish do fine.

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Hi Bawater, Or anyone who can answer..

I just bought myself some #1 sand..would like to confirm that it is..heh..I'm a little on the kiasu side..just want to make sure. Attached is the picture.

Price was $10 for 10kg..I understand that's cheap? Anyone can confirm?

oops.. :o

so sorry..too big..didn't realise..going to try again..so paiseh guys..

*I deleted the post with the huge attachment. In future, keep your photos to 700 pixel width.*

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