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Getting Rid Of Ich from tank system


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  • SRC Member

I heard lots of about

Freshwater Dip

Medication

Hypo

etc

Freshwater Dip = Temporary Removal "ON FISH" while the main tank still have ich in the system. Troublesome. Dont wanna do these every week. Its even stressing the fish,

Medication = Some say work, some say not working. It a rather 50-50 to trust on the product n probably waste money on.

Hypo = Eventually Permanent Effective on Display Tank. Lowering Salinity, increasing temperature in a long run will help eliminate the cycle of the bloody parasite. Those who just about to start can do this. For those who have already started, too bad, Unless you are ready to spend some money to get a QT tank with an empty display tank, then go for it. Its effective. Im not rich. Therefore i cant do it.

Cleaner LS = Im not sure about this i have a cleaner shrimp which is not doing anything to help the fishes, except for stealing mysis from corals. Doc Wrasse, i have no experience as my six line wrasse chase this fish til it commited suicide.

Well Basically Lots of procedures there is avail but maybe or maybe not i found a solution.

1. Use It's Clear (not medication) to stabilize ur water parameters, feed garlic products to boost ur fish immune system. Henry's Reefgourmet with Garlic with help. This will help reduce stress and boost the immunity of ur fishes to fight off Ich.

2. I heard of an effective way to treat ur fishes and as well as getting it of from ur system in a long run. UV sterilizers. Hadnt had one, do wanna try tho. Try looking up in youtube for "newyorksteelo" for ich related treatment. he says that UV light is the best way to keep Ich out of your system.

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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I had UV installed in my system and running 24 hours, and yet the ich appears. So brother out there, any better solution to get rid of the ich permanently in the main tank. Thanks for sharing.

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Just feed the fish with fortified stuff. Henry's gourmet is great.

Once the fish's immune system are strong, the ich will detach from their body.

yeap.

and btw

Freshwater Dip = harmfull, i did it yesterday, eventually one of my banner died.. RIP

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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  • SRC Member

Went to a professional today to seek help. Recommends me to feed garlic foods and use Octozin, just remove my carbon temporary, keep salinity the way it is and keep monitoring..

I'll try this, if theres any improvement, i will update.

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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  • 1 month later...
  • SRC Member

Nope... Useless...

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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Share on other sites

Yup, it's hard to administer octozin effectively in my opinion, it didn't kill off all the ich. I had a bad outbreak 1 year back that took away 1/2 of my fishes when I added too many fishes at 1 go thinking my tank is matured enough. Tried all sorts of methods but fishes still died, some I suspect due to stress from treatment too!!

Now, I have about 30 fishes in my tank but ich is no longer of a concern (fingers crossed) as they are resistant to ich. Whenever I add a new fish it will bound to have ich even after quarantine when release to my display but it doesn't affected the rest, even my 3 Tangs, unlike a year ago which the ich will spread.

What I did was to improve my water quality & feed daily with soak food (garlic & vitamin) after the outbreak a year back.

I have boosted the bacteria variants by dosing different types of bacteria (bactiv8 NPX, biodigest, a special power form of bacteria bot from Henry) plus fritz zyme to remove waste materials. This make sure all the waste, nitrates, phosphate are remove. Also using biopellets to provide carbon food source for the bacteria to grow.

In short, stop adding fishes & let your bacteria populate the tank & add different strains of bacteria as they have different functions. Overtime, a healthy bacteria population will provide better environment for yr fishes & less likely they will fall sick.

Lastly, regular water change & have a good skimmer to prevent bacteria boom if overdose (signs : cloudy water but it is fine).

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Yup, it's hard to administer octozin effectively in my opinion, it didn't kill off all the ich. I had a bad outbreak 1 year back that took away 1/2 of my fishes when I added too many fishes at 1 go thinking my tank is matured enough. Tried all sorts of methods but fishes still died, some I suspect due to stress from treatment too!!

Now, I have about 30 fishes in my tank but ich is no longer of a concern (fingers crossed) as they are resistant to ich. Whenever I add a new fish it will bound to have ich even after quarantine when release to my display but it doesn't affected the rest, even my 3 Tangs, unlike a year ago which the ich will spread.

What I did was to improve my water quality & feed daily with soak food (garlic & vitamin) after the outbreak a year back.

I have boosted the bacteria variants by dosing different types of bacteria (bactiv8 NPX, biodigest, a special power form of bacteria bot from Henry) plus fritz zyme to remove waste materials. This make sure all the waste, nitrates, phosphate are remove. Also using biopellets to provide carbon food source for the bacteria to grow.

In short, stop adding fishes & let your bacteria populate the tank & add different strains of bacteria as they have different functions. Overtime, a healthy bacteria population will provide better environment for yr fishes & less likely they will fall sick.

Lastly, regular water change & have a good skimmer to prevent bacteria boom if overdose (signs : cloudy water but it is fine).

Hi hondace, a year ago which you got outbreak, how old was your tank at that time ?

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IMO, QT new fishes is the best approach to prevent Ich outbreak spread in Display tank..

you may try hertana & artemiss during QT help boost the natural immune system of the fish before transfer to Display tank...

http://www.microbelift.com/products/home-aquarium/reef-and-marine/herbtana-reef/

http://www.microbelift.com/products/home-aquarium/reef-and-marine/artemiss-reef/

Cheers..

CFOh

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Cheers and Happy Reefing....

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Hi hondace, a year ago which you got outbreak, how old was your tank at that time ?

About 6-8months old at that time.

CFOh is correct on quarantine but new fishes always get stress again when in display tank, so my experience is that they tend to get ich but it is controllable if your water condition is good & it keep eating the soak food. Soon it will recover. Most important my existing fishes doesn't get it.

Worst case is my new fish mati but rest still fine.

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  • SRC Member

the best is keep DP tank free from fish for atleast 3 months, let the ich cycle ends without their host.. QT fish

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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Share on other sites

About 6-8months old at that time.

CFOh is correct on quarantine but new fishes always get stress again when in display tank, so my experience is that they tend to get ich but it is controllable if your water condition is good & it keep eating the soak food. Soon it will recover. Most important my existing fishes doesn't get it.

Worst case is my new fish mati but rest still fine.

Yup, QT to prevent disease outbreak... then separation box to acclimatising new fish and avoid aggressiveness before release to Display tank..

Cheers..

CFOh

30ikthj.gif30ikthj.gif30ikthj.gif
BANNER.jpg
1-3.jpg


LFS Map in singapore
__________________
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>
·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. >((((º>
Cheers and Happy Reefing....

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the best is keep DP tank free from fish for atleast 3 months, let the ich cycle ends without their host.. QT fish

True if u restart.

But bear in mind, ich will never be totally gone. It is always present in the fish itself somehow & when conditions r bad, it will strike again. I think it is kinda like flu, we never get rid of it.

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Dr G Anti-parasitic food. Active ingredient chloroquine phosphate. Once ingested it enters the blood stream of the fish and kills any cryptocaryon parasite attached to the fish.

Always something more important than fish.

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/

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Hi there fuel... Any idea where I can get those?? Dr. G thingy... I got bad ich in my tank... Need help soon...

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Iwarna, Marinelife & Madpetz all carry stock.

Always something more important than fish.

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/

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Iwarna, Marinelife & Madpetz all carry stock.

Reef Safe?

Teh'sTankSetup Decomm on 18/8/2012

Tank: 2x1x1 Rimless Tank (Sumpless)

Lighting: Aquazonic 2x24watts T5 (Actinic x Sun White)

Moonlight: Acardia 1W Led Light (Blue)

Filter: ISTA Max Care Cannister

Skimmer: Bubble Magus E3

Chiller: Resun CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Wave: Boyu WM-25

Commissioned 20/9/2012

Tank: 3x2x2.5

Lighting: 250w DeLighting MH/ 2x 39w Delighting Diy T5 ATI Blue Plus

Skimmer: H&S Skimmer Type 110-F2000

Chiller: CL450 (Aquazonic Evo Pump)

Return Pump: Eheim 1260

Reactor: D&D H2Ocean FMR 75 (ADA 1500 Pump)(Rowaphos)

Wavemaker: 2x SunSun Wavemaker (3000L)

Incoming:

Conch ll Basic

ATO System/Tunze Osmolator

Magic Marine 3CH Dosing Pump

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Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

just bought Dr G's antiparasitic food for my ich infested fishes... hope this work

so far, when I first fed them all rush to eat but after a while all 'siam' I guess because it is bitter. Have to carry on feeding so they have no choice. Haha

2 Feet Tank: (Decom Feb 2015)
-Lightings : Pharos LED light 90W with wireless controller
-Chiller : Arctica 1/10HP with H2Ocean Flow Pump 2000

-Wavemaker : Vortech MP10ES
-Skimmer : Bubble Magus NAC 3.5

-Return Pump : Eheim Compact 3000
-Reactor – TLF150 (Mod) with NP Biopellet
-Reactor – TLF150 with Rowaphos


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just bought Dr G's antiparasitic food for my ich infested fishes... hope this work

so far, when I first fed them all rush to eat but after a while all 'siam' I guess because it is bitter. Have to carry on feeding so they have no choice. Haha

Hi Jeff, keep us posted on the progress as to how effective this product is. :thanks:

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