ATO System

[Rajandra]

Dear Reefers,

I need some suggestion on my setup of auto top off (ATO). Due to limited space I can’t fit in the RO water storage tank under my DT, so I have came up with this setup as per in the drawing.

1. Tap water flow is control by electrical solenoid valve (24V) which is connected to float switch. The valve will be activated (water will pass thru) when the water level at sump reduced via the float switch.
   
2. Water will pass thru the RO filter and then to the Kalk reactor, and finally to the sump.
   
3. Solenoid valve will off once water inside the sump is full via float switch.
   

Hope to receive comments (pros and cons) on this setup before I implement it.

[spkentchai]

nice system...

[Rajandra]

BUMP

[vtecintegra]

Looks like it would work ok, but I'd try to work in some kind of backup incase of a float switch or solenoid failure.

[RockyBoy]

Great concept.

Float switches in salt water don't favour well, so be careful.

May be can use the RO water pressure pump to on/off, if you have.

[Rajandra]

Great concept.

Float switches in salt water don't favour well, so be careful.

May be can use the RO water pressure pump to on/off, if you have.

The system is up and running without any major issues. I’ve added a secondary float switch (NORMALLY CLOSED)slightly lower than my sump overflow drain (refer diagram) to cutoff the inlet valve to avoid continues top off in case the primary float switch fail (Which will reduce the salinity of the water and bring disaster to the tank)

My RO/DI comes with booster pump but I’m not sure how it will help in this system. Can you enlighten me on this?

The only thing I’m concern with this is that the TDS reading at outlet is not zero at initial stage of the flow. Its take at least 2-3 min before I get 0 reading. Not sure it will affect the quality?

[vtecintegra]

Booster pump increases the pressure which makes water faster and more efficient so less waste water goes down the drain. You can buy an electric pressure switch for booster pumps that turns the pump off when the float closes.

[Rajandra]

Booster pump increases the pressure which makes water faster and more efficient so less waste water goes down the drain. You can buy an electric pressure switch for booster pumps that turns the pump off when the float closes.

Noted. But my RODI comes with high and low pressure switch which will control the booster pump. To make things simpler, I have connect the incoming water to a solenoid valve which in return controlled by the float switch. So far so good. Will update if there is flaw or need upgrade the system.

[MadScientist]

Nice setup

[simmonsim]

Hi all, any picture or diagram of the above setup ?

Rocky Boy guru, is there any other way rather than using float switch to avoid this malfunction ?

[Rajandra]

Hi all, any picture or diagram of the above setup ?

Rocky Boy guru, is there any other way rather than using float switch to avoid this malfunction ?

Hi, the system is running for the last six 5 month without any issue. I will try to take picture any if possible video and post soon.

PS: you cant view the simple diagram in the above post? or you need a proper electrical diagram?

[simmonsim]

Hi Rajreef, am really a newbie here. Sorry to ask, what's the Kalk Reactor for ? Using what type of media ?

Was actually planning to do something similar to the above (but without Kalk reactor coz I do not know what's it's for, do enlighten me) but it's a bit of 2 in 1 (ATO + WATER CHANGE).

My concept was running tap water thru RO/DI into BIG drum which is about 80 liters, I will make a smal tube/piping at the side bottom of the drum & connect it all the way to my sump. At the end of the tube, I will connect with float switch. So whenever the water is below my required level, it will always Top Off by itself. I may also connect on/off valve before the float switch for below purpose.

As for WC, I will mix the salt into the BIG drum a night before, measure the salinity, switch OFF the valve for ATO. On the next day, after I drain out the water or syphon out all the debris inside my tank then I will switch ON again the valve before the float switch and the water will flows in until my desired level.

Is this workable? Any better suggestion ?

Thanks

[Rajandra]

Hi Rajreef, am really a newbie here. Sorry to ask, what's the Kalk Reactor for ? Using what type of media ?

Was actually planning to do something similar to the above (but without Kalk reactor coz I do not know what's it's for, do enlighten me) but it's a bit of 2 in 1 (ATO + WATER CHANGE).

My concept was running tap water thru RO/DI into BIG drum which is about 80 liters, I will make a smal tube/piping at the side bottom of the drum & connect it all the way to my sump. At the end of the tube, I will connect with float switch. So whenever the water is below my required level, it will always Top Off by itself. I may also connect on/off valve before the float switch for below purpose.

As for WC, I will mix the salt into the BIG drum a night before, measure the salinity, switch OFF the valve for ATO. On the next day, after I drain out the water or syphon out all the debris inside my tank then I will switch ON again the valve before the float switch and the water will flows in until my desired level.

Is this workable? Any better suggestion ?

Thanks

Hi,

Kalkwasser - German for "limewater," it is a highly concentrated solution of calcium hydroxide in water with a high pH of 12.00+ used to supplement calcium and maintain high pH levels in reef aquariums. The popular use of calcium hydroxide or Kalkwasser, probably did more to allow us to better keep SPS corals than just about any other advancement in reef keeping. The kalk reactor is a FR that will constantly stir the kalk, because kalkwasser is very hard to dissolves in water. The common method of dosing Kalkwasser is via water top-off. This was the reason why I have installed this in my system.

As for the system you’ve planned, if you have space for the 80liter drum, then it will work fine. Note that you don’t have to use float switch (float valve will work fine and more reliable) if you are going to gravity feed, but consider to place the drum higher than the sump level. Or else you need a feed pump that is connected to the float switch in the sump (can’t use float valve). In this case you don’t need the on/off valve before the float switch because you can off the pump during w/c.

Hope you understand what I mean. If not pls advice and I will try to put it in drawing.

[simmonsim]

Oh I see, Thanks for the explanation.

I dont think I will be using gravity feed as my drum will be on a cabinet in the kitchen. It will be a sore view for me to have piping running on my floor if I am using gravity feed. So if I am using feed pump, what are the switches or valves that I can do ATO automatically & Water Change manually ??

[Rajandra]

Oh I see, Thanks for the explanation. I dont think I will be using gravity feed as my drum will be on a cabinet in the kitchen. It will be a sore view for me to have piping running on my floor if I am using gravity feed. So if I am using feed pump, what are the switches or valves that I can do ATO automatically & Water Change manually ??

Above is a simple drawing of what you are planning. No need any valve. Just connect the float switch to your feed pump power cord. When you do WC, just switch off the power to the pump. Hope it will helps you.