Ingwe Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Hi guys! I'm upgrading to a 3 feet setup. I've never had anything besides a 2 feet 5 plan tank before. Need some advice on the new project Tank dimensions 1. What are the standard (i.e. no need to custom make) tank dimensions of a 3 feet tank? 2. Are standard sizes cheaper than custom made tanks? 3. What would be the height of the tank you'd recommend if I intend to keep some softies/lps at the bottom (4xt5HO likely)? Sump setup I'm more inclined to go for a sump instead of an IOS.. 1. What are the pros and cons of using an overflow box; 2. or holes drilled in the tank? (cost/flood(?)/etc) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member tunicate Posted April 24, 2012 SRC Member Share Posted April 24, 2012 Tank 1. 3x2x2 ft is popular 2. There're ready made setups where you may do some bargaining 'cause the shop may want to clear space. 3. You mean water depth? 1.5 to 2ft is typically ok using 4xt5HO. Sump Good for you. I encourage you to have a sump. 1. Pro - It allows you to easily add a sump to a 5 plan tank. (No drilling required) Con - Overflow box rely of siphon, hence risk breaking it. This would result in a flood if you did not incorporate a flood sensor to stop the return pump. 2. A proper overflow(internal or external) with drilled holes for durso piping is the way to go for reliability. If you're buying a tank-sump setup, a built-in overflow should not cost you too much extra compared to the overall price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zico Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I ve just done the same thing. I have a 2 feet tank. Happy with it but decided to try to be happier. Committed on a 3 feet w Sump. Firstly u need to choose a tank maker. He should be able to answer most of your qns but do feel free to get second opinions here as i ve done. Key thing to me on this part is your sump design. Keeps me awake every night thinking about the sump. Mine wasnt a simple plain vanilla one .. So it took me some ding donging w tank maker to sort it out. Secondly ... The equipments. Plenty if permutations to consider. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingwe Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 thanks! I'll ask around for quotes, about how much for a tank with sump is normal? 200-300? 300-400? or 500 onwards..? I guess my sump will just have a compartment for a skimmer and another for growing chaeto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zico Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 3x2x2 tank w cabinet and sump. likely $900 and above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Supporter ReDDeviLs Posted April 30, 2012 SRC Supporter Share Posted April 30, 2012 you need to look at the max height of the tank+cabinet as some dont feel comfortable stretching to the base of the tank. the sump adds on to the water volume of the tank. gives u more allowance for error. it also allows you to house filter media and other necessary equipments. it will be good if you could decide what you want to have in the sump prior to buying,designing it to avoid any complication in future. remember to pay attention to the tank thickness and the silicons before buying a readily made tanks. if we decide to go for a customize tank, placement of overflow box and return pump pipe, number of pipes and the pipe sizes are the important ones. have fun with your setup! Quote [ ] [ ] Reef Reefing Reefed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member demonsori Posted May 2, 2012 SRC Member Share Posted May 2, 2012 personally i use ATI T5's only and feel 1.5 ft height would be maximum for main tank ( with LPS down at sand bed ). can go 2 ft height if having like 3-4 inch sand bed ? research n more or less design / plan for skimmer model first. Have seen people regret when they have limited options for skimmer due to sump cabinet height. ** customise cabinet for ideal tank viewing height/ ease of maintanence/ spare height clearance for skimmer ? can email to weeyang@n30.com.sg for quote? 5yr warranty for leakage...they use gd parts, full customisation n gd advice.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terencekhung Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Any other reliable vendors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingwe Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 thanks for the replies! What should i look out for when it comes to the silicon? There has been a change in plans and now the sump tank would be placed beside the main tank, should I just make it a 4 feet with 1 feet (length) IOS tank or would it be better to place the sump tank beside and drill holes? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zico Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Any other reliable vendors? Quite a few. These are the few usually engaged by reefers here. Aquarium Artist (Vincent) / Iwarna (Victor) / N30 / Coral Reef Some of those who are savvy and keen to DIY design to the last millimetre + DIY pipings, will go the glass cutters (eg Atlantic, which is nearby GO) directly. She will recommend you a seperate cabinet maker. The very few who are keen on acrylic... will try I-Aquatic (Ian). Acrylic not quite advisable unless u are the super careful type, who will not scratch the surface (often). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingwe Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Due to vertical space constraints I have to put the sump beside my main tank (now 2x2x2 ft) Then it begins to look like a tank with IOS lol. the question is, should I just go for a very large IOS instead? What is the difference between a 3.5 feet tank that includes a 1.5ft IOS and a 2 feet tank with a 1.5 feet sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member tunicate Posted May 14, 2012 SRC Member Share Posted May 14, 2012 Let's call the 3.5 footer with built-in IOS as "A", & the 2 feet cube with sump as "B". A's equipment in the IOS is more expose unless you mask out the glass on the IOS compartment & have a hood to cover the top as well. Even so, equipment noise can be a problem to some. A 3 feet display with 1 foot IOS may be a suitable design for a FOWLR tank where equipment need is fewer. IOS design allows you to use a much smaller return pump. B is a typical design to keep the equipment hidden in the cabinet, & noise muffled. Plus it will probably be easier to sell off if you decide to decomm it in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingwe Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 thanks tunicate, that makes a lot of sense. I have been asking around and the cost of making a tank varies quite a lot. I understand that you'll get what you pay for in terms of materials and workmanship. But what does good/not so good workmanship mean in tank making? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingwe Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Is euro-bracing required for a 2 feet cube? I've been looking online and there were only references to tanks that are 3 feet or larger. Secondly what is a bottom eurobrace? Is it inside or outside of the tank? Does anyone have pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldian Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 thanks tunicate, that makes a lot of sense. I have been asking around and the cost of making a tank varies quite a lot. I understand that you'll get what you pay for in terms of materials and workmanship. But what does good/not so good workmanship mean in tank making? For me, Glass work: I will usually check on the glass edges, the silicone used and also how the glasses are bonded together. Those will poor workmanship usually will have air bubbles, rough edges or minute misalignment. Carpentry: check on the laminates edges - I prefer stiff laminates veneers rather than the roll form laminates that is cheaper but peel easily, hinges - pay for the branded hinges, plywood used for the cabinet - marine ply are expensive and a reduce in thickness will only show after a few years, frame - ensure that they are chenggai or kapo wood. Overall planning: This is the one that differentiate good tank-maker from a glass cutter. An experienced tank-maker will be able to consider all the needs in your entire set-up. This is important if you do not want to end up with un-serviceable in your set-up. Imagine having a fish jump into your overflow box and you are unable to retrieve or having to dismantle half the pipe-works in order for you to change your filter wool. As per all things in life, ask, compare, observe before you commit. Quote "Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated" Dr. J.E.N. Veron Australian Institute of Marine Science -----------------------------------------------------------------------Member of:UEN: T08SS0098FPlease visit us here: http://www.facebook....uaristSocietySG Facebook Group: http://www.facebook....gid=34281892381 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member comycus Posted May 16, 2012 SRC Member Share Posted May 16, 2012 maybe to broaden your requirements slightly, my preference would be to go for a tank maker who offers the following: Neat and minimal Silicon work Neat carpentry and laminate work Advice from tankmaker on tank and sump layout and dimensions Timeliness Warranty and after sales service Can give Coral Reef a call to ask for quote, many reefers here and myself have had good experience with them. PM me if you need contacts. btw, I suggest to go rimless (no bracing) if you don't intend to build a hood or built in cabinet. Its unsightly. Not necessary, but can go for bottom brace for peace of mind, its just an additional piece of glass surrounding the perimeter of the bottom inside the tank. Quote My old 3ft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldian Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Is euro-bracing required for a 2 feet cube? I've been looking online and there were only references to tanks that are 3 feet or larger. Secondly what is a bottom eurobrace? Is it inside or outside of the tank? Does anyone have pictures? Technically, brace is just another piece of glass use to provide support to prevent the glass pieces from 'opening' up like a flower. It is usually stick to the four edges and/of the center of the long side of the tank. However aesthetically braces can be unsightly and cumbersome. For long tanks, the top and bottom bracing is a must and some tanks that is 3ft and below will only have bottom bracing. Different tank-makers will advise you accordingly base on their experience, skill and also the silicone they use. Quote "Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated" Dr. J.E.N. Veron Australian Institute of Marine Science -----------------------------------------------------------------------Member of:UEN: T08SS0098FPlease visit us here: http://www.facebook....uaristSocietySG Facebook Group: http://www.facebook....gid=34281892381 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldian Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 My current tank is 48 x 30 x 30 and was build in end 2004. During that time, being prudent, I opt to have top and bottom bracing. However, after 6 years of usage, I discovered a leak at the bottom of my tank. I have to de-comm and finally realized that although I have top and bottom bracing, the bottom brace was only 1 inch front and back on the long side. Did I made the wrong selection and blame the tank-maker? No, because I approved his proposal and also I don't think all tank-makers will plan for a tank that will last more than 3 year but compromise on aesthetic. Quote "Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated" Dr. J.E.N. Veron Australian Institute of Marine Science -----------------------------------------------------------------------Member of:UEN: T08SS0098FPlease visit us here: http://www.facebook....uaristSocietySG Facebook Group: http://www.facebook....gid=34281892381 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingwe Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 As per all things in life, ask, compare, observe before you commit. yep. I felt my skin thickening as I called various tank makers and asked them questions hahaha. Did I made the wrong selection and blame the tank-maker? No, because I approved his proposal and also I don't think all tank-makers will plan for a tank that will last more than 3 year but compromise on aesthetic Ya I guess we shouldn't blame the tankmaker if the flaw is because of a designed that has been approved. lol. A tank is only planned to have a lifespan of 3 years? I've been using my trusty 5 plan for almost 10 years alr, and my granddad's goldfish tank probably more than 23 (ever since i can remember ) However aesthetically braces can be unsightly and cumbersome. For long tanks, the top and bottom bracing is a must and some tanks that is 3ft and below will only ha... I'm going without a hood so thats exactly my concern too. haha. Tts why I'm wondering if i can get away without top brace for a 2x2x2 10mm tank. So far tankmakers seem to think it can be done. Glass work: I will usually check on the glass edges, the silicone used and also how the glasses are bonded together. Those will poor workmanship usually will have air bubbles, rough edges or minute misalignment. Are these only aesthetic? Bubbles in the silicon sounds quite disturbing (correct me if I'm wrong), because it seems like the silicon is the only thing stopping the tank from what you've very graphically described as opening like a flower. I think that mental image is stuck forever haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ingwe Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 speaking of my granddad's tank.. it has metal bracings at the side. Is this still done now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gouldian Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Are these only aesthetic? Bubbles in the silicon sounds quite disturbing (correct me if I'm wrong), because it seems like the silicon is the only thing stopping the tank from what you've very graphically described as opening like a flower. I think that mental image is stuck forever haha. Air bubbles are considered flaws as these is where the glasses are not bonded together properly. When the tank is submitted to daily stress, more air bubbles will appear or the air bubble will get larger and finally leak. Quote "Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated" Dr. J.E.N. Veron Australian Institute of Marine Science -----------------------------------------------------------------------Member of:UEN: T08SS0098FPlease visit us here: http://www.facebook....uaristSocietySG Facebook Group: http://www.facebook....gid=34281892381 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1112 Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 are we all choosing black color silicon? how about glass type? crystal type or normal type. i am from fresh water tank, as crystal glass is always the most prefered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member clownfish_forever Posted June 11, 2012 SRC Member Share Posted June 11, 2012 Dark background can bring out the contrast of your coral colors. Personally what I prefer. Quote Regards,JeffAquarium: 48" x 18" x 24" tank with 24" x 15" x 15" sump (approx. 150 gallons)Equipment: Maxspect Razor 320W, Vortech MP40, Vertex Omega 180i, Eheim 1262 return pump, Hailea HS 66A, Bacteria KingFish and coral food: Henry's Reefgourmet pellets, Preis coral energizer, Kent Marine PhytoPlex, Brightwell Reef Snow, Two-Little Fishies Marine SnowDosage: Triton Elements Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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