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Recommendations for Chiller for 3-2-2 Tank


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Dear All,

Any recommendations for chillers for my new 3-2-2 Tank? How much will it be est? I am on a tight budget.

Whats the difference between a brand new and second hand chiller other than the price? What do I need to consider if I am getting a second hand chiller?

How long can a chiller last? Is it ok to get a 3 yr old chiller?

Many thanks! Cheers

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I got my chiller for $400 plus. Am using the 1/4 HP chiller from hailea for my 3 x 2 x 2 ft tank with sump. I realize the problem with my hailea chillers is that the inbuilt temperature probe tends to be inaccurate thus, I've DIY an external temperature controller. You might want to consider this if you're getting a hailea chillers. my chiller have been wit me for about 7 months. Heard that it needs servicing but am not sure how long then need to service once.

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I got my chiller for $400 plus. Am using the 1/4 HP chiller from hailea for my 3 x 2 x 2 ft tank with sump. I realize the problem with my hailea chillers is that the inbuilt temperature probe tends to be inaccurate thus, I've DIY an external temperature controller. You might want to consider this if you're getting a hailea chillers. my chiller have been wit me for about 7 months. Heard that it needs servicing but am not sure how long then need to service once.

Hi Kira, thanks for the info. Sorry Im new here. What do you mean by a 1/4 chiller? I heard that I should get a 1/3 chiller. Your DIY external temperature controller refers to the thermostat? How long does it run?

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Hi bro..

1/4 chiller meaning 1/4 hp ( horse power ).

With external probe, the chiller will kicks in less but the duration will be longer.

DIY external temperature controller == controller plus 1 temperature probe.

Hope this clear your doubt..

Tank : 3 x 2 x 1.8 ( setup end Feb 2014 ) --> 4 x 2 x 1.8 ( setup early Nov 2016 )
Skimmer : Bubble Magus NAC6 --> Bubble Magus Curve 7
Return pump : Jebao 10000l/h ( down in 17th December 2014 ) --> Jebao DC-12000 ( 19th December 2014 )
Compressor drop-in coil
Wavemaker : Tunze 6105 x 1
Lights : Modular based DIY LED light x 4

Chaeto in the sump

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Hi bro..

1/4 chiller meaning 1/4 hp ( horse power ).

With external probe, the chiller will kicks in less but the duration will be longer.

DIY external temperature controller == controller plus 1 temperature probe.

Hope this clear your doubt..

You took the words right out of my mouths. Well said. :)

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Hi bro..

1/4 chiller meaning 1/4 hp ( horse power ).

With external probe, the chiller will kicks in less but the duration will be longer.

DIY external temperature controller == controller plus 1 temperature probe.

Hope this clear your doubt..

Hey thanks for clearing my doubts!!! So is 1/3 or 1/4 horsepower better for a 3-2-2 tank??

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budget? look for 2nd hand chiller

$100-150

resun cl650, but risk of KO in less than 2 months(fan or temperature probe)

if lucky last another year

$150-250

hailea 300a should last at least a year(mostly temperature probe issue)

if lucky 2 more years also no problem

$350-500

arctica 1/4-1/5hp should last at least 2 year

if service($60) yearly, 5 years no issue

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budget? look for 2nd hand chiller

$100-150

resun cl650, but risk of KO in less than 2 months(fan or temperature probe)

if lucky last another year

$150-250

hailea 300a should last at least a year(mostly temperature probe issue)

if lucky 2 more years also no problem

$350-500

arctica 1/4-1/5hp should last at least 2 year

if service($60) yearly, 5 years no issue

Hi Thanks for the info! Greatly appreciated. By the way, whats the difference between a 1/4 or a 1/3 hp chiller? which is better for a 3-2-2 tank? Any good deals on arctica chillers that you know of?

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Hi Thanks for the info! Greatly appreciated. By the way, whats the difference between a 1/4 or a 1/3 hp chiller? which is better for a 3-2-2 tank? Any good deals on arctica chillers that you know of?

1/3 n 1/4 HP usually refers to the power of the chiller. Of cos the bigger the no. the more powerful the chiller is, and shorter time taken to chill down your tank, that is, if we consider everything else as the same.

Of cos, other then chiller power, the pump flow rate and placement of inlet n outlet also plays a part.

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1/3 n 1/4 HP usually refers to the power of the chiller. Of cos the bigger the no. the more powerful the chiller is, and shorter time taken to chill down your tank, that is, if we consider everything else as the same.

Of cos, other then chiller power, the pump flow rate and placement of inlet n outlet also plays a part.

Hi Kira, thanks for the info once again. Eh so u were saying the bigger the no the more powerful it is. So is 1/3 (one third) bigger than 1/4 ( one quarter)?? Or I should be looking at the absolute no?

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For yr tank size, 1/5 is able to do the job. 1 Lvl up will be 1/4. 1/3 seems to overkill but if u got vitamin M, no issue. Factors to consider:

1. Size

2. Flow

3. Power consumption

4. Kicks-in frequency

As mentioned by others, bigger powered chiller is bigger and requires higher flow. Power consumption higher especially during the kicks-start. Frequency of kicks-start will likely to shorten their lifespan. So must get the right mix.

IMO, if got chance and money and knowing yr interests will not die off soon, Artica is gd investment. Otherwise china brand like hailea can do the job but gd to get external thermostat. All the best.

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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Unfortunately, budget is tight for TS.

I have a reef tank which is exactly the same size and I use a 1 HP drop-in coil chiller. Heat and noise are all emitted outside (I put the compressor in my balcony) and the tank gets cooled from 27 C to 25C in 22-25 minutes and the compressor kicks in after 2.5 hours.

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For yr tank size, 1/5 is able to do the job. 1 Lvl up will be 1/4. 1/3 seems to overkill but if u got vitamin M, no issue. Factors to consider:

1. Size

2. Flow

3. Power consumption

4. Kicks-in frequency

As mentioned by others, bigger powered chiller is bigger and requires higher flow. Power consumption higher especially during the kicks-start. Frequency of kicks-start will likely to shorten their lifespan. So must get the right mix.

IMO, if got chance and money and knowing yr interests will not die off soon, Artica is gd investment. Otherwise china brand like hailea can do the job but gd to get external thermostat. All the best.

Hi Solo..

Not enuff Vitamin M yet.. Haha..

Thanks for your reply. Very direct to the point making it easy for me to comprehend. By the way, I don't really quite understand how does the flow affects the chiller.. Flow is controlled by the pump?

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Hi Solo..

Not enuff Vitamin M yet.. Haha..

Thanks for your reply. Very direct to the point making it easy for me to comprehend. By the way, I don't really quite understand how does the flow affects the chiller.. Flow is controlled by the pump?

Flow rate affects the contact time of the water in your chiller. There's 2 school of thoughts. Some say faster flow rates better cos more water gets through your chiller. Some say slower flow rate better cos then the water will have enough contact time to chill down.

Personally, I say both are true, as long as your flow rate is within the manufacture's recommended flow rate. I personally am using a slightly faster flow rate as my temp controller is external, thus I do not depend on the chiller's temp controller to determine when to on/off. There's a reason to this. As the chiller temp controller only reads the temp in the chiller, it will off the chiller once the temp in the chiller reached the set temp. When I use an external temp controller, the ext controller off the chiller once the temp in the tank reached the set temp. See the difference?

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Flow rate affects the contact time of the water in your chiller. There's 2 school of thoughts. Some say faster flow rates better cos more water gets through your chiller. Some say slower flow rate better cos then the water will have enough contact time to chill down.

Personally, I say both are true, as long as your flow rate is within the manufacture's recommended flow rate. I personally am using a slightly faster flow rate as my temp controller is external, thus I do not depend on the chiller's temp controller to determine when to on/off. There's a reason to this. As the chiller temp controller only reads the temp in the chiller, it will off the chiller once the temp in the chiller reached the set temp. When I use an external temp controller, the ext controller off the chiller once the temp in the tank reached the set temp. See the difference?

Yeah, thanks Kira, yeah, the part of the flow rate sounds very logical...

:paiseh: Abit confusing.... need more explantation here. What is the set temperature for your chiller and your external thermostat??

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Yeah, thanks Kira, yeah, the part of the flow rate sounds very logical...

:paiseh: Abit confusing.... need more explantation here. What is the set temperature for your chiller and your external thermostat??

Hahaha, chiller temp set at 20degrees. External temp controller set at desired temp of 25degree. This is so that when external controller activated, it will on the power of the chiller. Once tank temp reach 25degrees again, the external temp will off the chiller.

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Hahaha, chiller temp set at 20degrees. External temp controller set at desired temp of 25degree. This is so that when external controller activated, it will on the power of the chiller. Once tank temp reach 25degrees again, the external temp will off the chiller.

:idea: OHhh....

But wouldnt the temperature fluctuation in the tank be quite drastic? Is it ok for the fishes and coral?

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budget? look for 2nd hand chiller

$100-150

resun cl650, but risk of KO in less than 2 months(fan or temperature probe)

if lucky last another year

$150-250

hailea 300a should last at least a year(mostly temperature probe issue)

if lucky 2 more years also no problem

$350-500

arctica 1/4-1/5hp should last at least 2 year

if service($60) yearly, 5 years no issue

Hi bro, I think the price for 2nd hand arctica 1/5hp to 1/4hp should be at least $500 onwards. :peace:

5x2.5x1.5ft Rimless Dream Tank (06/03/12)
Skimmer - Reefoctupus

Return Pump - 1 x Eheim 1264, 1 x water blaster 7k
Wavemaker - 2 x mp40es
Chiller - Daikin compressor with coil drop in
Lighting - 4 x 80w T5 Pair 1(6hrs23/12/12),Pair 2(16/06/12312hrs 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (1/3/12) -(15/11/12)6hrs and 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (13/10/12) -6hrs)
Reactor - Dosing pump (01/01/11)


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