Huge tank with lots of issues

[Rajandra]

Hi bros/hobbyist,

I have a huge saltwater tank (7'L x 4'H x 3'W = 650g with 60g sump) used to maintained by professionals. I've stopped using the services due tight budget and never maintain my tank for almost a year plus- never even change the water!! I know it is very long and you may think that my tank would have crashed by now! Surprisingly my fishes, few mushrooms and a SPS coral (probably white elegance) are still alive. Now, I started to maintain it myself by doing/ did the following:

1. Initial 50% water change (took me the whole day to change it-1200 liters)- used Red sea salt.

2. Cleaned, added new media and reactivated my DIY Calcium Reactor. Yet to have the pH controller to maintain the co2 flow but checking the ph manually (it’s around 8.0-8.2) two days once.

3. Cleaned and run my Aqua Medic skimmer.

4. Created DIY double algae scrubber. Running for 10 days now with 18 hours on, 6 hours lights off (can see gradual algae growth).

5. Added sea weeds into my sump tank (suggested by one of my friend to reduce phosphate).

5. Added New Rowaphos to my reactor and activated.

6. Repaired and run my huge bioball chamber pump. But I have not cleaned the bioballs.

7. Weekly 10% water change.

Even after doing the above for almost a month and half, phosphate level is very high in the tank (more than 1ppm) and algae growth on the glass very quickly. But lots of algae on the sand bed has disappeared but not from my live rocks (still very greenish). I also noticed that bubbles formed from sand bed and live rock reduce dramatically after I introduce the algae scrubber.

Im planning to do the following things, but before I do that I need suggestion from pro’s.

1. Remove the bioball (a quarter every week) due to space constrain.

2. Add ozonizer with ORP controller because my water is not crystal clear (can see tiny particles floating inside the tank).

3. Add NP Bio pallets because the phosphate level is still very high.

4. Replace my current T8 lightings to mixture of 2 x Giesemann Powerchrome Actinic Plus T5 Tube - 39W, 4 x Giesemann Powerchrome Aquablue Plus T5 Tube - 39W, 2 x Giesemann Powerchrome Mid Day 6000 T5 Tube - 39W.

5. Replace my current 3 x 10000k MH 400w bulb to 3 x 400 watt 20000K Metal Halide Aquarium Bulb with individual diamond shaped reflector (DIY).

6. Add activated carbon near high flow area at sump tank.

Im planning the above because I wanted to add more LPS and make my tank livelier. Hope to get some good comment and suggestion from everyone before I execute this project. Thank you in advance.

[AravinthanRaja]

Bro pls add some pic! Interesting to see!

[Rajandra]

Bro pls add some pic! Interesting to see!

Bro attached are the picture of my current state as well as 2 years ago.

Pls comment. Tq

[AravinthanRaja]

Bro I'm not a pro but I'll just run through a few stuff! When was the last time your light bulbs were changed? Incorrect or old bulbs can lead to algae bloom. What time does your algae scrubber light come on? It's best to come on when the main tank lights are off! Ensure that you're using a good test kit to check phos! Don't forget to check other parameters! Get an algae blenny! No drastic changes! Do things one at a time! You gotta nice tank! Hope it looks more "alive" soon! IMHO try to keep things as simple as you can! Cause when something goes wrong, you might not be able to trace back with so many equipments and stuff! Hope everything works well! Good luck bro!

[finbir]

Hi there,

After such a long lay-off, u have made quite a lengthy overhaul. Why not just let things run for,say, a month b 4 u try more improvement? Normally an algae scrubber does not show much initially but when it does, wow... u'll be amazed!

Happy reefing!

Finbir

[Rajandra]

Dear bros ,

Thank for ur comment/ suggestion.

- The last time i changed my MH bulb was 6 month ago (but at that time im not too sure about the bulb to use so i just replaced the normal industrial MH 400W bulb which is around 10000K). I believe due to that lighting that i have lots of algae growth in my tank- pls give comment on this.

The light on/off timer set up are as per below

All T8- On at 1.00pm/ off at 11.00pm daily (10 hours)

All MH- On at 2.00pm/ off at 11.00pm daily (9 hours)

A.Scrubber- On at 7.00pm/ off at 1.00pm(next day)- total 18 hours.

Im using red sea phosphate pro test kit (got it about a month ago). Im also checking kh, NO3, NO2, Gh and ph on daily basis (not much changes though) using 5 in 1 API test kit. But I have separate API pH tester (showing steady pH between 8.0-8.2).

Yes bro, i bought 2 small a.blenny but it just gone missing inside my huge tank. Its not visible at all. Im not sure its dead or still alive! Is there a bigger a.blenny available in the LFS?

Will monitor the result with the algae growth in the scrubber as suggest by finbir. Hope thing will improve soon. Cheers

But I really need some lights on the bioball. I have not touched it at all (probably the last two years). So I think it is a nitrate factory now. Can I just remove it and replace with my some live rocks in my tank? If I were to remove it, can I do it at once or gradually? The bioball chamber taking up almost a third of my sump tank space. Hope to get some good suggestion on this.

And any comment on Activated carbon?

Hope thing will improve soon. Cheers

[Harlequinmania]

Maybe you would like to share with us more on the equipment which you are currently running ? i.e skimmer, return pump ect.. From the look of the photo i suggest ;

1) remove your Bio ball and replace it with other filter media instead i.e ; Biohome or bacteria king ect..

2) Have more live rock inside your main tank to boost up the biological system if you would like to keep more coral / fishes in future

3) I think the wave maker which you are currently using is too small for your tank size.

4) I am not sure what skimmer you are using but i also feel it is a little bit small for a 7 footer tank

5) The algae bloom on your glass can also be cause by high N03 and not only P04.

6) The best effective way to reduce N03 and improve your overallwater quality is to do a major water change . You can give irwanna a call, and they can do the water change for you . Price is base on trip irregardless of litres of water.

7) You would need some time for the algae scrubber to work

Activated carbon will help to clear your water, if possible run it in a FR for best result and use those pallet types .

Hope the above helps

[honkit]

For the most painless path to solving your tank problems, these are the suggested undertakings:

1) Change 50-75% of tank water spread over a period of 2-3 days. A weekly 10% water change does not cut it.

2) Remove the bioballs completely over a period of one week

3) Do not use 10,000K 400W bulbs - they are not necessary for a tank without light-demanding corals such as yours. Change to 14kk or 20kk spectrum 250W bulbs or T5s and shorten the photoperiod to 6-7 hours.

4) Do not add any new fishes, inverts or corals

5) Re-test NO3, PO4, kh and ph parameters after your large water changes and complete removal of bioballs.

With the above, I am sure your tank will look and do a lot better.

[Rajandra]

Maybe you would like to share with us more on the equipment which you are currently running ? i.e skimmer, return pump ect.. From the look of the photo i suggest ;

1) remove your Bio ball and replace it with other filter media instead i.e ; Biohome or bacteria king ect..

2) Have more live rock inside your main tank to boost up the biological system if you would like to keep more coral / fishes in future

3) I think the wave maker which you are currently using is too small for your tank size.

4) I am not sure what skimmer you are using but i also feel it is a little bit small for a 7 footer tank

5) The algae bloom on your glass can also be cause by high N03 and not only P04.

6) The best effective way to reduce N03 and improve your overallwater quality is to do a major water change . You can give irwanna a call, and they can do the water change for you . Price is base on trip irregardless of litres of water.

7) You would need some time for the algae scrubber to work

Activated carbon will help to clear your water, if possible run it in a FR for best result and use those pallet types .

Hope the above helps

Currently running the following

Return Pump- 2x Eheim 1264

Skimmer- 1x Aqua medic Turboflotor Blue 3000

FR- Rowaphos reactor (about 500g media)

Calcium Reactor- DIY (5.5kg media)- yet to install Milwaukee- MA957 CO2 Regulator and SMS122 pH Controller

Wave maker- 2 x seio m2600 and 2 x Tunze Turbelle Stream 6101 with Tunze Multicontroller 7095 (removed due to power faulty) but ready to install after repair.

Chiller- Resun with 1 hp outdoor compressor.

A.Scrubber- double layer (18"L x 11" H- each) with 4x 24w T5HO and 4x 18W (6400K) daylight florescent at the center. (on for 18hrs/day)

Bioball chamber with Eheim pump (not sure the flow rate)

Will remove bioballs gradually. Can you explain about biohome? Never heard about it. Is it ok if i just add more live rocks?

Will do a major water change 75% this weekend. will post the current and after water change reading for PO4, NO3, kH and pH. Hope this will improve.

Thanks

[Rajandra]

For the most painless path to solving your tank problems, these are the suggested undertakings:

1) Change 50-75% of tank water spread over a period of 2-3 days. A weekly 10% water change does not cut it.

2) Remove the bioballs completely over a period of one week

3) Do not use 10,000K 400W bulbs - they are not necessary for a tank without light-demanding corals such as yours. Change to 14kk or 20kk spectrum 250W bulbs or T5s and shorten the photoperiod to 6-7 hours.

4) Do not add any new fishes, inverts or corals

5) Re-test NO3, PO4, kh and ph parameters after your large water changes and complete removal of bioballs.

With the above, I am sure your tank will look and do a lot better.

Hi honkit,

Can you please advice how to do the 75% water change over 2 days period? My tank is 2300l. Can i change around 1200l on the first day and 600l on next day?

FYI, im planing to have LPS in the future (once system stabilized), so like to maintain the 400w MH. Probably will shorten the photoperiod of MH to 6-7 hrs immediately.

Thanks

[honkit]

Hi honkit,

Can you please advice how to do the 75% water change over 2 days period? My tank is 2300l. Can i change around 1200l on the first day and 600l on next day?

FYI, im planing to have LPS in the future (once system stabilized), so like to maintain the 400w MH. Probably will shorten the photoperiod of MH to 6-7 hrs immediately.

Thanks

Your tank is sizeable so you are going to need several large thrash can type containers (can hold around 200 litres) or a couple of those blue tubs that LFSs use which, depending on size can hold in excess of 1000 litres. These tubs will hold your premixed saltwater (mixed at least 24 hours before doing any water changes).

My suggestion is to do 50% for the first day and 25% for the 2nd day. Contrary to popular belief, doing such a large water change does not harm the tank's inhabitants in the case where the tank's current water already has high nutrient levels. The one constant you should adhere to is to keep the same salinity as your old water.

LPS corals and even most SPS corals do not need 400W MH bulbs. Try 250W or several T5 bulbs at a higher light spectrum.

[jamomatt]

Wouldn't it be better to pump in NSW at that volume? Try not to use tap water if possible.

[honkit]

Wouldn't it be better to pump in NSW at that volume? Try not to use tap water if possible.

I have reservations with NSW as the ones sold by LFSs tend to have lower salinity and may contribute to algae blooms due to organism die-offs.

[Rajandra]

Wouldn't it be better to pump in NSW at that volume? Try not to use tap water if possible.

Bro, I have never used NSW from LFS before. Do you think its cost saving compare dry salt for this volume? ANyway, I'll be using RO water.

TQ