lyz77

I think you are refering to those titanium coil which can be place in the sump and it's connect to the condenser instead of running water from the pump to the chiller! There's a few reefer who do that n u may wanna do a search under "Members Showcase"!

Manage to get it solve by improving the ventilation. But I still notice it take pretty long to chill down even though the chiller specs state up to 1200L. My tank plus sump is abt 1050L.

Almost 50% off!!! Great stuff.... Upz.....

Any filter wool to recommended? I'm using those SERA white wool and not sure if it's able to trap those fine particles well or not???

http://www.aquamart.com.sg/

Check with Aqua Mart directly as they are Aqua Medic Distributor

I notice that there's almost lots of fine particles in my tank! Is it normal? If not, is there anyways to eliminate them in order to create a real clear water? I'm using SERA sponge! Will it be the caused to it? I tried turning off my skimmer but still notice those fine particles ard the tank! Pls advise!!!

Take note of the power supply as US use 110V whereas Singapore use 220V.

Quite confuse here! Does that mean that with ACLS, normal e-ballast can be use instead of dimmable e-ballast? Bro Tedb, r u using one of this equip? How much does it cost?

Can IKS work with Icecap dimmable e-ballast?

Can normal electronic ballast be use for dimming or need to use those dimmable electronic ballast for both T5 & MH?

Great choice for your great tank!!!

How does a 3-way ball valve work?

Use for less than a month with proof of receipt from AM. Reason for sale is due to under specs! The chiller is not able to chill my tank which is close to 1000L. Bought at $588, letting go at $480. I have alter the outlet with ball valve!

How can I differentiate between a male & female BLUE EYE ANTHIAS? I tried searching the web but not very clear. Please advise and best if there's pics attach!

Let me guess which T5 set r u going for......AH.... I think I kw!!! Too bad no budget, else will get it from you which I will use as a spare backup! Upz for your sales!!!

Not sure if the agent can't solve the problem, whether will I be entitled for a one to one exchange?!? Something is very wrong as the chiller can't cool down below 28 deg!!!

I have another external thermometer and the temp in the main tank is higher then the chiller buy ard 2 deg. Furthermore, I hv set my chiller to stop at 26deg and it's stuck at 28deg for hours without going down any further! Sign.... my monthly electrical bill will shoot damn high considering it's running continously at full load!!!

I think so too. Had call up the agent and hopefully, he can resolve this issue. If not, dun kw whether will they provide one to one exchange?!?

I tried reducing the flow as I was told that higher flow will achieve better chilling results. Anyway, I tried both high and low flow and I find it ridiclously to hv the chiller run continously for 12hrs and yet, the temp is not going down any further. Strange rite???

My tank temp is higher then the chiller temp. Main tank: 29.3deg after running the chiller for 12hrs continously (Drop from initial 33deg) Chiiler: 28 deg (Drop from initial 31deg)

I'm using one of my OR6500 to Tee-off to my chiller and out to my sump! So in terms of flow, shd be more then sufficient! I started my chiller at 7pm yesterday and the tank temp is 33deg. This morning after 12hrs of continuously running, the tank temp is stuck at 29.3deg. I notice that there's a different of ard 2 deg between my chiller and my main tank.

Oohs..... sorry... though u will be going for SPS! Heard that SPS tank need to hv great flow!

I got 4x24W BluePlus last week, the color was excellent!!!

Why not get a TS-24!