vincegoh

Definitely NO!

Your new fishes might be cyanide caught or maybe the fishes are shocked when u introduce them. Funny, usually blue damsel is very hardy.

I don't buy from Re**** due to the condition, the shop is subjecting the marine life to, I even saw one full tank of sea apple! So many dead fishes in the tank... There is also no quarantine to all the fishes. Don't think I will take the risk to save on a few dollars and risk infecting my existing fishes. Be a responsible marine hobblist. Just my opinions...

All along I have been using a 150W MH 20k, so a dimming actinic 03 light should not gave it a shock, right? But the yellow tang behave strangely even under normal light (MH light) now.

My tube anemone (in my avatar) has retracted into the sand and stay in there for the past 2 days. Is it dead? Or it is hibernating?

My Yellow Tang has been acting funny for the past 3 days. It occasionally swim real fast from corner to corner and then brake to a sudden stop. It will just jerk and lift up its head. There is no itch on its body. It is still eating well though its seems more jumpy. By the way, it all started when I install my actinic 03 light. Anyone has any idea what happen to it?

Why?

.... If you put it that way, then thicker glass will have the tendancy to crack easier due to differential temperature.

Maybe mantis shrimp usually attack at night!

Actually, the thickness of the glass is determine by the height of the tank, i.e. the water pressure exerted onto the glass wall. 5mm seems to be too thin. Get a reputable maker to do it. Shattered glass can be pretty dangerous.

My new house is designed by Ink Image at Stamford Road. One of the boss is very much in into marine aquarium. He designed my 5' cabinet for me. Their website is http://www.ink-image.com

Well, it start to get brownish after a day or 2.

Well, for the cabinet, since u r moving into ur new house, ask the interior designer to design one for u. Or wat I do is that I give him the design that I want and he build it for me. But make sure his carpenter is good cause the weight of a 5' tank is no joke! Else u may end up with a swimming pool.

How do u find this Aqua Sentry pH ###### temperature probe? Accurate? Reliable?

So how do u find this Aqua Sentry pH ###### temperature probe? Does it give real time readings?

I agreed. Red algae is Tang's staple food.

I change my carbon every 2 months.

I have placed the activated carbon at that location. Is it considered high flow then? I heard from a more experienced friend who specially uses a canister just for chemical filtration. So why my filter wool is yellowish then? What is the reason? Do u guys means that activated carbon will solve this problem? But I have been having activated carbon all along leh.

Well, I do have activated carbon in one of the compartment in my sump. However, I heard that for activated carbon to work efficiently, water needed to be forced though, i.e. canister will do better. Wat is ur opinions on this? Thanks

Hi, people. I noticed that my filter wool get brownish filth quite fast. Though my water seems clear but with the filter material getting brown so fast, I suppose the color of my water should be slightly towards brown. Is it due to the diatoms? Is this normal? Thanks, people.

For my case, I have asked my interior designer to design for a very strong cabinet for my 5' tank. By the way, usually the hinges for the cabinet next to the sump will always rust as it is perpetually wet at the sump area.

How much to get the seachem denitrator? Is it effective?

Is there any add-on products that can be use to neutralise nitrate other than this SeaChem Purigen? What kind of additive is effective?

Your sump looks nicely set up? Where did u get the switch,i.e. the control knob for your pipings? Also, U r using SA2014 right? What PH are u using? Thanks.

Is there any metal parts? I have gotten mine for about $30+ (Taiwan made) and it have rivels (not too sure whether is it aluminum or some other metals)