Thexder

I hung the control box where I used to hang the HQI for the MH.

Finally, running the LEDs with FTS.

Finally put in the LEDs... Installed the splash guard. Did not use the spacers since they didn't fit properly also. I think it looks much nicer without spacers anyway.

Installed the 3 fans and running well. Then tried to slide in the aluminum plate with the LEDs. Found out the heatsink in the way of the fans. Just 1-2 mm of interference In the end sacrifice the 2 fans that I bought and keep the original centre fan. Since heatsinks are at the 2 sides of the plate. I hope 1 fan is enough to circulate the air inside the casing.

Removed all the MH stuff and getting ready to install the fans... You can see a ballast on the right side. I thought it was for the T5, but the connections run to the MH In the end removed it also. The T5 seems to run fine direct from the mains.

A mess of wires inside.

Removed the cover and exposing the internal parts.

Now the most difficult and uncertain step. Taking apart the Solite and removing the MH assembly. Here is original Solite configuration. You can see the 2 MH bulbs with reflectors in the centre row.

The most important step that a lot of people forget to do. Protect your exposed wires and solder joints against corrosion from salt spray. Conformal spray which coats your circuits with a insulating layer to prevent moisture attack. $15 for a can.

Running the 230VAC supply from the control box to the fans. Got this connector from 1 of the first floor shops. Did heat insulation on the inside wires. Don't wanna get shocked when handling this...

My weekend classes ended and today made a trip down to SLT to get some parts. Came home in the afternoon and started work right away... Control box was first to get worked on. Wires were already soldered previously. Installed grommets and cables. Meanwells and transformer are held on by 3M double side tape (outdoor use). So should withstand humidity and heat.

I've use UV when I have ich outbreak. It does help to bring the ich under control, but doesn't work alone by itself to stop ich. I will disconnect it once the ich outbreak is over.

Not on this setup. Thinking of using the Arduino controller for sunset/sunrise/moonlight, but probably do it on future setup where I have blank slate to start.

Not much done his week. Did a bit of soldering work and wire layout on the controller box. Probably need to drop by SLT again, as I forgot that my fans are running on 230VAC. I have to get some more wire to run the power cable to the fans. Right now the fan is connected to the MH. Once I remove the MH, there is no more power to the fan.

2 x 2 feet, 2 x 2 metre? Best is you call to enquire.

Had my project box drilled to accomodate the pots, status lights and LED plugs. Also for the power cable to run through the back of the box. Still have to get a few more parts at SLT to complete the job. But have to delay since my next 2 weekends will be having class...

Running all the LED's with 2 Meanwell drivers at maximum (0.9A) output. Seems to be working. Now I have to desolder the wrongly connected LED's so that I end up with whites on 1 driver and blues on another. I'm getting good with the solder sucker already...

Anyway, carry on with the testing. The 9V DC from the transformer works on the dimming function of the Meanwell. Although the specs call for 10V PWM signal, a DC voltage is good enough. Maybe the voltage ripples from the transformer seems like PWM signal to the Meanwell I set the maximum current to 0.9A. Max current for the LED is 1.0A. I set the 10K pot to minimum and then tune the current setting in the Meanwell.

Testing the LED with the Meanwell driver... Then another boo boo Supposed to have 1 driver run the white LED and another driver run the blue LED. Seems I attached the LED wrongly and now 1 driver run half white, half blue...

Started soldering the LED's over the weekend. Haven't done so much soldering in a while... Ended up solder the LED's in wrong polarity and had to desolder and resolder

Output of the transformer is 9V DC. Maybe connect a capacitor in series might even out the fluctuations?

Then stick the LED's to the aluminum plate. Heatsinks already stuck on opposite side.

Heatsinks with Bond Ply attached. The adhesive is pretty strong. Once attached, its very hard to remove.