reeftask

One feet tank wont be stable in this hobby. You will have nightmares. Why not start a 2ft tank instead? Only slight bigger. Start with a hydrometer, 2ft tank with 25kgs LR and best with a small skimmer and pump. It should be cheap and affordable on fish only tank.

agrees and what kareen said is very true too.

just dont eye for our blood.

As I said I dont know. I know only how to see anemone dyed. Why anemone? Because at that time I was very addicted to marine, starting time la. So surveys anemone for 2 yrs and owned many anemones. At that time always remain 2 anemones in a 2ft tank. Later when upgraded to 5 ft still have 1 anemone for 1 yr plus before give up. So I dont know how to see other corals dyed. But usually I see the colorations must be natural and balance first before proceeding.

upzz

yeah, agree anti-biotics too.

yeah! its a goby on the left! OK, one crab and one goby? or two gobies? LOL

This formula is just considered power factor:1.0 which means 100% efficiency. No electrical items in the world have 100% efficiency. Furthermore it didnt add-in surge current which takes in more electricity when compressor starts. External controller needs $200 if you ask someone to to do. You dont need that figure and you only need to add only one termostat to change everything. Why will we want to change the whole controller when it didnt damage?

well, I know you have a degree in NUS but certificate is something to get you into entry level. You must have experience in order to work better. Furthermore NUS cant teach you everything so experience is more vital provided if you know what is happening. If try an error type, pointless as learn nothing. Installing an external termostat of course better. Its cheap and you can have a more stable temperature with less kick in/out. this is experience and no lecturers can teach me this.

So thats why you have these details. If you check properly, your temperature of chiller is not according to your tank. Original termostat in chiller is not accurate. If you install an external termostat, you will less kick in/out and real temperature shown.

Did you install the temostat externally or original internally?

Oh no, blood matters here. I dont want to lose blood and become another vampire. Its best to find out if really the pump sound. Listen properly nearby.

good idea. kareen can help to write this poem like shakespeare?

no la its a crab looks like an eel. Used to eat them with henry at the coffeeshop behind.

maybe you are too pretty, made them jealous. I agree with bluezing, I dont care where they come from and I only care its worth or not. I always considered they are local, LOL.

patience. be glad with what you have. About the colour injection, I have no idea as never survey on this. I only advise dont buy the dyed corals.

thats a good question. amkes me scratching my head. I have no idea tho. But after thinking maybe no difference. ummm, maybe. "BOMB!" Whose chiller is that? not mine. I think the next person who comes in here.

bro, is it the one thats in your picture?

high. suggest you read more on internet.

All Resun sound operation are ok but no idea of 1/2 hp series. just fan noise is heard if you stand in front and listen. Its considered normal and good. Only thing is the stopping sound very loud. Some ppl said the sound is "Piang!" and some said "boong!" There are however some described the sound like: "bong!", "bang!", "dong!",..... However there is no ppl saying the sound like "bomb!"

pump size depends on you. You have to read the pump chart regarding flow out from your pump to that height of tank piping. Just add another 20-30% just to be safer. Usually minimum 6 turnover rate is OK provided you have flow pump in the main tank to assist more flow. I advise extra flow pump in the main tank because they uses less energy and more flow. You can use seio, tunze,..... on that maintank pump. Silicon will do but advise to use dow corning brand.

When compressor starts, there will be more electricity needed for kicking in. Compressor running too long will also cause it no rest and internal bearing bush wear out faster. Kick in and out too frequent will shorten compressor coil life. It really hard to advise when you dont have the data. Its like a car. 1000cc car if always runs at 110km/hr and long distance will damage faster than a 1600cc car. But if you always uses at 80km/hr and short distance, 1000cc car is more worth. If you plan not to upgrade for these 3 yrs, its advisable to use CL280.

What I want to advise, mostly done by these 3 nice reefers. I would like to add. After you had done all the required things, you have to be patience and monitor the progress. If its going stable, means good. It will change back to its colour after months. Just becareful not to add too much iodine which promotes algae growth. Just dose to minimum requirement. Dont feed yet when it is unstable. Ozoniser will makes no difference. I do prefer to let them have medium lighting and medium flow during recovering state.

Hermits will eat meat and are caught right handed by many reefers. Some sites indicates that too. They will eat snails even they dont need to change shells and still have plenty algaes to eat. Some hermits may eat slime algae but not confirmed all 100% will eat slime. Some sites said wont. A friend of mine recently bought some hermits and prooven they just wipe away the slime algaes and eat the food below these slime algae. They dont even bother to eat the slime. Well Van deam, I know you wanna sell your shipment of hermits but you have to be fair and truthful. BTW your price is not cheap, not even half price of LFS as what you sms, but ex than LFS. Pls dont repeat your history. Sorry if Im being too straight but I dont recon your business method. Since you show something from this site, this site also tells you this is a fact: http://saltaquarium.about.com/library/blan...afe_inverts.htm Cranking your pH to 8.6 wont solve the problem. You have to solve the first problem and not try anything else to create another problem. The problem lies with the LR. I agree with Kareen, cycle first before adding fish and corals. But I think Spaceman wont do that. He is too impatience. Black out for 3 days wont work. I have a friend who bought dead rocks from a reefer 4 yrs ago. He places this tank in his workshop. He cycled this tank for 1 month before adding fish. Then he install lighting and the nightmare started. The tank started to have slime algaes. Luckily he has no corals. So after cycle with 5 fishes for 9 months plus, the slime algae starts to go off and stop growing. He has Skimmer and carbon all the time. His tank is high flow too. I met another reefer in SRC and he talked about his story. This guy bought some LR from some reefer and went shopping instead of straight home. He had lots of die-off and luckily not too bad, he manage solve this problem within 3-4 months cycling with fishes. He also told me black out for few weeks are useless. You have to black out until the bacteria grow back. To what my experience, cyano problems comes from the LR. Not enough bacterias to handle that much die off. Die-offs releases nutrients. So if the LR has little die-off, it will be good after a while. If the LR is totally crap, you will need months. Had seen some ppl uses some ways to speed up this process by adding old matured LR. Well I only can advise and whether what other ppl want to brag, its their wishes.

8-10 is best