adrianlau

Bro, sorry to hear that. If you have been reading a lot like you said in your first post, you got to start doing what you have read. Guess why there was no reply to your urgent call for help? A lot of warnings were sounded out to you already. The excitement of starting a tank can be overwhelming, but in order not the commit the common mistakes that beginners make, you'll need to control your impulse (as advised by delirium, Bali Brain and hammerhd) Like what big_ben102000 has said, list down your equipment so that others can advise whether what is feasible. Restart by cycling your tank for 1 month before adding any fish.

I know it is almost impossible to keep Maroon Clownfish together, but I'd like to try it. Please help suggest which is the best method. My tank specs are below, and there are lots of hidding places in my LR. My 2 inch Maroon clown managed to get along with my 2 inch Tomato Clown (but looks bigger since Tomato are broader) with a days of fighting after they were bought together. Now I hope to introduce a Yellowstripe Maroon and a True Percula, all about the same size. They are already in separate betta boxes for more than 2 days and the original Maroon keeps "flaring" outside the Yellowstripe Maroon's box (The Tomato didn't show any interest). Tonight I managed to trap the Maroon in a third betta box. I hope to release them into the tank by this weekend. Should I: 1. Release the newer fishes first and wait 1 more day before releasing the original Maroon; 2. Release all three at the same time; 3. Release all three at the same time, together with some large feeder Molly fish to distract the rest? I'll only release them at night after lights off, and probably leave the lights off for another day. Thanks in advance.

test with a "test pen" - A screwdriver with a light bulb in the handle (<$3 from DIY shop). It doesn't come with instructions, in case you're not familiar with it: Touch the rear end of the handle and dip into the tank. If it lights up = there is electric current. If there is any faulty equipment that is causing this, replace/repair it to cut the source of the stray current. Or else get a "Ground probe" from good LFS to resolve the stray current. I'm not technically inclined, just sharing my experience.

It's for removing Phosphate in the tank, eg. Rowasphos, Sorb4, Phasban etc.

Welcome, new convert (from freshwater to marine). I made the conversion last Sep and have no regrets, yet. The key secret to keeping marine fish is to develop patience. (Maybe I will write a book "The Zen of FOWLR"). Good that you've been reading for so long, a lot to learn from others who have walked on this path . OK, enough philosophy. These are my thoughts of what I would recommend to someone starting a marine tank (especially if on a tight budget, like me). Cycle the tank for at least one month. Use Nutrafin's Cycle or Aquarium Product's Biozyme for Saltwater Aquariums. (Some people keep 1 or 2 Damsels to seed the cycling stage, but Damsels will become aggressive. Has anybody tried using Freshwater baby feeder Molly? Wonder how long they can survive in saltwater.) After cycling, start with fishes that are classified as Easy fish in eg. LiveAquaria.com Examples include, Blue/Green Chromis, Pseudochromis, Hawkfish, Yellow Tang. If you want Clownfish, go for Clark's Clown, Tomato Clown or Maroon Clown which are easier than the Common Clown. Be careful, marine fish has to be stocked lesser than freshwater fish, because Marine fish are more sensitive to water conditions. All these are provided you've got the write equipment in the first place. Have fun.

I also don't glue mine, surely will need to scrub them sooner or later. Mine started to grow algae and I was thinking when to scrub them. But after replacing my phosphate remover media, the algae disappeared.

Where is the collection point?

Got them recently at the Singapore Garden Show! This distributor got them from Reef Depot, selling at same price. It definitely adds colour to FOWLR tanks and non-reefers won't be able to tell the difference. Last weekend saw a different range of artificial corals and artificial LR(limited variety) at Marina Square. The tank designer shop at IMM opened a new branch there.

I'm no expert. When buying my first BTA, the LFS guy says clown fish will feed the Anemone. I thought he was joking... then during feeding time, I noticed my Maroon Clown catching the food, swim back to the anemone, and release the food. Then the anemone's tentacles (whatever you call that) grab hold of the food!

No lah, the smaller one Nano ReefPack 200 Nano ReekPack 200 Any idea?

Does the Light Set come with holders? I prefer not to place it flat on the tank.

Sorry to revive this thread, but has Tunze Nano Filter or Reefpack arrived yet and where is it available?

Bro SilverHawk, My pail waiting in my car already, but still no news after I PMed you. Fishes still available?

Exactly, unlike any other frozen food, this one is like hard jelly (in cubes) - it will not disintegrate when thawed.

Bro Iantoh, Splashing problem fixed by pointing the outflow of the powerhead slightly lower. Thanks. Looks like you're the spokeperson for Hydor Flo .

Formula One and Two frozen food is in gel form and needs to be broken into smaller pieces. The LFS people recommended chopping it or use a blender! Currently, I push it through a kitchen metal strainer (from Daiso), but still found it too troublesome. Any other suggestions?

Hi Ian, Just bought my 2nd one, but haven't fixed it to my Eheim Canister Filter yet.

Hi Ian, I've bought this thing since you last recommended. I used it with my Rena powerhead rated at 900 l/hr near to the surface (for undergravel filter) but had problem with water splashes. I noticed your tank's return flow was pointed at downward angle so no problem with water splash. I guess I need to use an adapter to direct the flow downwards, any other solution? Also, a fellow reefer commented that in order for the Hydor Flo to work, it would slow down the flow rate, what do you think? Thanks!

ok, I'll give that a try, quite fearful that it will pollute the water though.

Got it for a week but would only peck on the LR. I've tried live brine shrimp, live tubifex worm, mussels in the shell. Nothing works, and now it has white spots and spread to my blue tang and yellow tang. Had better success with Copperband Butterfly. What else can I do to feed the Long Nose Butterfly?

Thanks for all the feedback. I also experimented with a way of feeding my Copperband Butterfly as it is not eating pellets. I floated a fish trap/breeder tank (that has openings underneath) into the main tank. When I'm away, will ask my mother to throw in a cube of frozen mysis shrimp once a day into the breeder tank. It floats for a while when still frozen, then it disintegrates and sinks through the openings at the bottom and into the main tank

LongNose Hawkfish prone to escape, as described here: LongNose HawkFish

Mine went for live brine shrimp first, then convert to frozen brine shrimp and Henry's frozen food. I believe live tubifex and blood worm will also work, but not sure if can "convert" to marine food. Fresh Green mussels ($1 a pack from Cold Storage) is also a favourie food - pry it open with a spoon and throw in with the shell on. I keep 2 pieces for the following days and cook the rest for feeding human .

Sorry Bro KennethK, it indeed was your Long Nose Hawkfish . Remember I asked you if it would jump? because I've read from somewhere before that these guys are prone to jumping and should cover the tank. But who in Singapore cover their Marine tank right? Only in the temperate countries that they cover the tank and use heaters. Anyway, it was happily catching live baby mollies the night before. Just that it liked to rest on some equipment (thermometer probe, filter outlet pipes) near the surface of the water.

I normally need to top up 1 gal of water daily (manually) due to evaporation from the fan (24 hrs). I'm hoping to spare my mother from doing the top up while I'm on holiday for 1 week. I'm considering the following: Feeding: Automatic feeder twice daily with pellets Fan: Only on when the lights (2x 3 feet normal flourescent) are on (9 hours). Any suggestions?