Phang

Barra, that also depends on the chillers ability to cool the reef.... mines barely keeping it at 28C once activated even through the hysterisis is at 1.......once start never stop.... only after the lights went out.... and even then, takes awhile before it reaches its intended temp.... <_< <_< <_<

Robe, tot the 4.5kV ignitors are for 250s and 400s...... Have not come across a 6kV ignitor yet.....

Reefers, Especially those who are keen in nano reefs... I have a 1.5 ft reef black silicon with top and bottom bracings...(nice furnishing) with a 18W PL mini pendent for sale....... Please PM me if you are interested....

Oh,..... you are refering to the external probe...... but isn't that how chillers work??? and how does the hysteris work in this area??? isn't the hysteris the difference between the wanted temp and the activation temp... If that is so..... think the external controller should have that... meaning, correct me if I'm wrong..... setting my reef temp at 27 C and the hysteris at 1 C.....which would cause the chiller to activate at 28 C only and stop its cooling function at 27C..... think my braincells finally working...... BTW Hon, if you read this.... can you post up the settings (the P1, P2 thingy) for Teco Chillers again..... I sort of lost track........ still trying to recover from the " shock " this morning......

Clubfish/Defish.... I think the comments posted by you are getting out of hand..... Nobody wants it this way and I believe you don't feel good with where this is leading...... since we are into the same interest in reef keeping and also the very reason why you are in here, why not end this situation in a proper and non offensive way....... AT's been very nice so far in giving you opportunities ...... take it and let's carry on..... to build a friendly and educational forum that this site purpose was build on ....

I don't need a igniter for this?????

Electrical guru you might not be but definitely know enough to ruin some braincells in my head.... can you post that interpreted in layman terms...... Hmmm.... when you refer to the 2 probes in good chillers.... does it mean that the chiller activates once the temperature rises above the set temp..... regarding the 2nd probe, the chiller will cease its cooling function either through the temp of the water attaining the set temp .... or.......the chiller gets too heated up and stops for a while for it to cool down before starting up again... cos that's what happens to mine... though it was some sort of mulfunction....... and regarding the hystersis, it won't be neccessary if my external probe is set at lets say...26 C..... my chiller is fixed at 23 C.... so when the temp exceeds that of the probe set temp.... the chiller will be activate through the main power source....... the chiller will continue working but will stop once the reef water temp reaches the 26C not the temp of the water thru the chiller which is by now normally warmer than the reef.... Hmmmmm.... this does cause a more stable temperature for the reef....

Very unfortunate then, maybe they didn't do it thru the proper channel...... but from my checks with the AVA, these stuff are permited .... they are not banned... only need proper legislation.... but that's not the point.... wanna know why you are doing this?????

Defish or Clubfish.... hmmm, I'm confused.... who are you??? schrizo??? Under the CITES regulation, these corals are not banned.... they are under protection or named under appendix II... that means trade in these corals for commercial usage is allowed to a certain quantity through proper documentation...... Only stuff that is ever considered banned are under Appendix 1...classified endangered... these are only for scientific studies or zoos........ BTW, what are you doing this for ????

Pet, many of us here uses the ecosystem...... aka as the refugium.......

Wah..... Benny, You collect Chillers????

Brown... and flat.... Hey wait a minute... before we go wild over this flatworm issue..... was wondering whether flatworms are a common occurance in reefs..... cos it seems like there really no way that we could stop them from hitchhiking their way into our reefs...jus like the crabs, shrimps.....unless we really nuke every piece of liferock in FW dips and quinine....... What's important is that we don't let them have a population explosion..... right... now ... what measures do we take to prevent them from a population explosion????

Robe, I'm using a 400w ballast... called ATCO and made in Australia.... stated also as a HPS Ballast... Is that alright??? Capacitors and Ignitors are from Germany.... And I would assume Osram, Radiums, Ushio/BLVs and AB Aqualines are germany made bulbs therfore rendering them available to be used on the ballast available????

Nah..... if its like Morgans.... I QUIT!!!!!!!!!!...... Found a liverock "well covered" with them..... so removed it and did a FW dip.... Is that gonna work.... BTW, have isolated the rock..... And yes, does a blackout helps to curb this wonderful event??????

" Siren sounding in background"....... "sound of desperation and people screaming and running for their lives......" bzzz..... Attention all FB(Flatworm Busting) Units.......Bzzzz..... prepare to move out in 5 mikes time.... Serious infestation of flatworm spotted at the Phang's residence 5 footer reef.....bzzzzzzzzz...... all officers to prepare their quinine shotguns and don anti yellow staining suits...... I repeat....bzzzz.... I repeat...... all officers on duty be prepared to move out in 5 mikes time.... bzzzzzzzzz.........This is not a drill..... I repeat....bzzz..... this is not a drill............. Bzzzzzzzzzzz....................

Need some information on this.... 1) difference between pulse and probe start ballast... 2) are the pulse start available locally..?? 3) Can Ushios run on Standard ballast without problems??? Oh Boy, this probing into MH technical stuff's driving me up the wall...... always thought they were plug and play..... Now its more than jus plugging....... <_< I'm thinking of changing my current 400Ws Bluelines/ intended Radiums into 250Ws Ushios........ going for a setup of Ushios/Sakis/Ushios..... Anyone wants 400W ballast???

was talking to SPade and Barracuda about this.... Is it possible to contact the temperature control to the main supply that runs the chiller... Place the chiller desired temp much lower so that when the probe activates, the chiller would on and cool the water.... once desired temp is reached (based on the external probe/controller setting), the power supply to the chiller would ceased.... therefore, no complications/modifications to be executed on the chiller........... would like the comments of the technical whiz kids here.... Cedric??? Alvy????

Nemateleotris magnifica = purple firefish??? and Thor amboinensis = anemone shrimp??? and yes, Hong Yee, the pistols do stir up the sand bed.... however they are stopped by the eggrates about 3 inches down..... YOu should see the symbiotic relationship they had with my three shrimp gobies ... kinda cute....

Hmmmm, the Ushio also requires a pulse start ballast from the infor that you Pm me with.... So now what......???? Cos I was thinking of a Ushio as an alternative to the AB.....

Hi Reefers, Jus curious, What are you guys keeping in your reefs regards to fishes and invertebrates…. I’ll start ..... (Main Reef) Fishes 1) 1 pair of Maroon Clown (Gold Stripe) 2) 2 Yellow Nose Antenna Prawn Goby 3) 1 Yashia White Ray Shrimp Goby 4) 1 Mimic Tang 5) 1 Sailfin Tang 6) 2 Fairy Wrasse 7) 1 Leopard Wrasse 8) 1 Six Liner Wrasse 9) 16 – 20 Chromis For Main Reef Invertebrates 1) 4 Cleaner Shrimps 2) 3 Pistol Shrimps For Refugium/Sump 1) 1 Scopas Tang 2) 1 Sailfin Black Blenny 3) 1 Cleaner Shrimp 4) 1 Donkey Dung Sea Cuke

Frustration.... different comments everywhere.... worse scenario..... go sakis all the way and get a yellow reef..... hehehehhhh....

Oops....... Anyone wants to comment on this???? Pospeh? BTW, Spiff, what ballast are u using on your ABs????

Now here comes the issue, I wanna keep my total MH wattage below 800Ws... the ideal would be 750Ws for all 3 MHs... Know I can't have the best of both worlds but would like to get as close as possible..... so was wondering if a combo of AB / Saki / AB setup would be good... Was thinking of the 250W Radium for the AB replacement, but later change my mind due to the low PAR.... BTW, how does a reef using ABs on standard ballast look like?? Anyone with this setup willing to entertain me for a visit/look ??

Heh heh heh........ Welcome back..... Do post pics of your reef again ....... Like the specimans in your reef very much.....

Hmmm... actually the 400Ws Sakis look a good idea too.... Only on for a short period of time to speed the growth process.... then can view reef with the 250W AB... BTW, last heard they are no longer termed 10kks for the new batch but are now 14kks...... hurgh.... decisions, decisions.......