jackywongto

Looking at $50. Pls SMS me at 91853586. rgds Jacky

upzz

wow Is this the equivalent of 12 dKH? nice!

Hi Sikiee The trick is 1st to understand what is cycling. cycling is simply a process whereby your tank to achieve an equilibrium maintaining the nitrogen cycle in your tank. when you start a tank / add fishes, ammonia will increase through fishes' waste, uneaten food or dieoff of organism from rocks. Ammonia is toxic, need to get them to zero. A bacteria colony will slowly be established in your tank to convert this ammonia to nitrite. NO2 Nitrite is toxic too. So another group of bacteria will slowly established in your tank to convert nitrite to nitrate (NO3). Fishes are more tolerable towards nitrate. Once these 2 batches of bacteria are established in your tank and is in sufficient quantity to cope with your ammonia/ nitrite conversion, your tank is deemed cycled. This is the 4 weeks window that Comycus is saying. So to start of cycling, you need to have fish waste, uneaten food or something rotting in your tank Else there will be no ammonia to start off with and the cycle cannot take place. Having said the above, even though your tank is cycled, everytime you add livestock, your tank will be readjusting again to try to achieve the above mentioned balance. If you can grasp this fundamental, you can start adding livestock with more frequent water changes, dosing of bacteria and controlled feeding. If you have no idea what I am talking about , just dump a few spoonful of fish food and let it rot in your tank. Once you monitored that nitrite is zero, then you can start adding livestock. I added 4 fishes in my 1 week old tank. They are ok till now. (2 weeks already) I was using NSW, cured rocks, rocks from reefers, live sand and dosing bacteria.

Did another round of test today. These colours are really hard to differentiate especially ammonia and phosphate. My PH fluctuation is really high. sometimes 8.07 sometimes 8.3 Need to find a way to balance it. Maybe once the nusiance algae is gone, it will not be as bad. I can prob start raising the dkh and calcium now. phosphate: 0 - 0.25 ppm calcium : 400 ppm ammonia: either 0 or 0.25 ppm (very difficult to read) nitrite : 0 ppm nitrate : 1 or 2 ppm (dark yellow - so assuming it is between 0 & 5 ppm) dkh : 7 (125.5 ppm)

Peter, sorry Marco has reserved the 6060. I'll keep the light and 1250 for you.

Too much clutter lah. I would also need to mount the FR on the outside of my tank cabinet. Introduce another pump into the tank... wah getting more and more messy...... so still considering & thinking

The FR photo is taken on a Straits Times paper so you can reference the size from there. For 24G should be ok and an overkill but I am contemplating using it for my tank. Sorry should not have posted that up.

Paiseh CR = ARM FR used to be filled with Rhowaphos. 6060 no magnet, just the hang on clip. Peter, can confirm if you want the light?

upzz

Manage to dig out the old items in my air con ledge. I have verified that these are still in working condition. See if you can pay me a token amount or pass me some frags equivalent for these or whatever you deem fit. Okie here's the details. 1. PL light 2 ft. Just tested and its working. Peter let me know if you want this I have got a white and blue tube inside. I can pass this to you for free. 2. Eheim 1250. 20 litres per min. 3. Tunze 6060. Still working well. Need to wash with vinegar though. 4. I aquatic FR. anyone who needs this let me know. FOC. 5. I aquatic CR The medias inside has been there for 3 - 4 yrs already. I think its Rhowaphos. The pump is still working. I have no idea how this thing works. So just come, grab and go. Gasket might need to be changed.

lol .... 1) cannot compare a MCE with a 9002 lah..... different class. 2) you can squeeze a lot if fishes in a footer but bio load, maint frequency, water quality, fishes & corals well being will all be affected. Or Maybe it is possible but I definitely dun have the ability to do it now Very soon, Peter, you will be upgrading to a 5 or 6 footer. hehe you might want to start talking to your wife early about it.

Peter Well thats the hardest it has been working so far in my tank. bearing in mind my bio load is quite light and I only feed a small qty once a day Hmm maybe I should test my water parameters tonight. Peace, unfortunately I have just cleaned the collection cup. It was still quite watery though. will take a shot next time.

skimmer working overtime today.

wahahaha.... u quite a TC king.... funny

yeah. the cotton works.

come .... come ...... COME ......... Wahahahahaha.......

hmmm I have adjusted mine to the max (totally opened) maybe thats why. Anyway, I have stuffed some cotton at the gaps and bubbles are gone. Thanks Bro! Damn tired. Just housekeep my hamster cage. My fishes next......

1. Don't think you can do anything about the levelling now ... hehe 2. You have all the nice gadgets. why save on the DI? Strongly suggest you get a RO/ DI. Water source is important imo. In the meantime, you can add water conditioner as Comy suggested. Having said the above, I am sure you can keep a successful tank with tap water having taken all the right precautionary measures. 3. Cool. you will be using it very very often like once a day 4. So look into DI, and controllers/ monitors. They will be useful. Just my suggestion.

Thanks Comy and you are right... these guys are expanding. Thinking how to get rid of them now.

some queries: 1) Are these nusiance algae? Sorry for the bad photo. its about 5mm tall 2) What are these white "worm-like" growth on the rocks? I used to have plenty in my sump. Would like to ID them. Can anyone help? last question: how did this pile of dirt ends up here? Its not sand. probably denitrius? How did they stack so nicely. Its like a pyramid there. noticed that its been there since last week.

upzz more response pls.

upz for the dayz

Lol Thanks! I was trying to figure out what that pm was about. Too many posts this morning lol.

Oh... was suppose to be for your monitors..... cool. well thought.