jackywongto

better to do a test. check my thread

Found this fella again. Since no fishes has been found died mysteriously yet, I am letting him be for the time being. if anyone can confirm that he is harmful, pls let me know and I will get rid of it. then this is the same worm I saw 1 month back

hey next time do a full test then post the result Pete.

So flattering. thank you very much. No the light dun have to fit the whole tank. just note that at the edge of the tank, it will look dimmer thats all. mine has an even spread across the whole tank. Ideally it is better for fishes to be at max 30 -31 deg cel. Fishes might feel stressed in anything higher I think. So I would suggest you start cycling without the fan and see how high the temp goes. I have seen nice clip on fans that will not look out of place. Get one if you need. For the sake of the fishes even without corals, please try to keep <30 deg cel. They might survive, but you dunno whether you are stressing them. I would like to achieve 15 lol. Pressing the "insane" button on this one... haha. Fishes need space. if you get the small gobies and fishes, you can hit 5 maybe. really dependent o the type of fishes you get. skip damsels especially. They are gangsters. Schooling is not possible in our nanos. Go take a look a ML elos tank. Henry has about 6 yellow clown goby inside i think. Dun get the reef pack. Just get the Tunze 9002 and use your cannister. It will be an overkill for your system already. The prizm skimmer is not that effective. So for the long run, 9002 will be more worth your dollars. But do note that it is very sensitive to water level. So you need to top up water everyday. Also I have not resolve the microbubbles issues with the 9002. Not sure if other 9002 users are facing the same problem. 1.5 ft tall = TV console height. I was looking at making one at this height too but gave up cause I need to house my chiller. Never use biohomes so I dun know. Depending on your rockscape, I think you might be able to skip the wavemaker. Also place your cannister return nearer to the surface of the water to create more surface agitation. This will provide better exchange of gases = more oxygen. If needed, you can always add the wavemaker later.

2ppm Phosphate is not "some" , i think it is quite a lot right? **gulp.... - dosing so much additives and then do water change that lower the readings.... it is like slapping your left cheek with your right hand. - wanna reduce nitrate and phosphate, thats why changing water but end up with higher nitrate and phosphate. ... this one you slap your right cheek with left hand lol you get my chain of thoughts here? wonder what is the salt mix readings?

Since my name kena mentioned already, die die must answer something ** Anyway, the intention is to start a 2 x 1 X 1.5 or 2.5 X 1 X 1.5 tank. I suppose you know the larger the volume of water, the more stable is the water parameters. As Fuel say, get a sump if possible. It would be easy to get a light fitting for 2 feet. PL, T5 and most lighting comes in 2, 3, 4 feet. Try to get a deeper width if possible. easier to scape and look more 3 dimensional. maybe 1.5 ft width? ** for a tank size like this, what kind of skimmer do i need? i need recommendation on the model. Sorry, need help because i can't seem to find any information on cycle rate needed. You can use the red sea prizm skimmer (buy 2nd hand about $50. Not worth getting new one) or you can go for the Tunze 9002 if your budget allows. ** I'll start with a FOWLR tank, and eventually i would want to introduce some form of coral in it. So what kind of fish can i start with and what kind of Coral really should i be looking at given that i don't wish to have a chiller. Fish - http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquariu...s.cfm?c=15+2124 you can get these nano fishes. Prob 2 - 3 in your tank will be good. corals - just go for mushrooms, zoas to begin with. They are easy. You will need maintain your tank at <30 deg cel. Without a fan, then prob you will need to get a fan. ** I would like to have some LED lights as well. Any feedback on the Chinese made LED? There are many types of Chinese made LED. which one are you referring to? Mine is Chinese made as well. ** Skimmer, Wave Maker, What other equipment do i need? i have an existing cannister with 2 KG of Biohomes, can i continue to use them? With the skimmer + your existing cannister, your should have sufficient flow for a FOWL. Your biohomes was used before or still new? I am sure Peter, Comy and the rest of the reefers will chime in later. Welcome to SRC!

hey Peter. dun wear dark coloured shirt to place hor. (especially blue) I think my jawfish go nuts when he see black or blue figure in front of the tank!!! I always drove him crazy this morning in my blue Tee. I have changed to white and he is ok now. Go figure!!!

have "kar" can walk can already. transport - we settle later.

Hey kimkim, we have a LFS outing this sunday. If ya free, can join us.

you should upgrade your 3 footer

I suggest you go ML and have a look at the nano fishes. Henry always have some nice cute little fishes. Have a look at the griessingeri goby. very cute. dun get firefish.. they might jump out of your tank. can try getting a pistol shrimp and goby pair too. mine is fascinating and a joy to watch.

lol it looks like one what...... pushup one somemore hehe.... yeah just get me a few polyps lah if you can. helping him to decomm? say hi to him for me pls. dun even have chance to go LFS with him, he decomm already. oops sorry kimkim.... we OT your thread.

lol that will be nice. I can always pop over and have a look at your babies... hehe... so near my place.

you should do a joint venture with one of the LFS.

hmmm somehow your zoa look like a bra. ask you to frag for me oledi , dun wan and then post here showoff!!!! @$%^@^^#*

I have nvr kept a lionfish before but just pondering - when you what to do some maintenance, isn't it a bit challenging to stick your hand in it with a lionfish in a small nano? You new rock work once filled up with some corals will be quite nice. if you see a nice rock with corals in future, maybe can get that and replace the flat piece one behind. just my thoughts

CF NSW $2 for about 10 litre. did a detail test on the NSW quality and here's the result: Salinity : 1.025 PH : 8.18 Ammonia : 0 Nitrite : 0 Nitrate 10ppm Calcium 520 ppm Phosphate : 2ppm Mg : 1080 ppm Alkalinity : 6 dKH * I am a little surprised about the level of the phosphate and nitrate. will do a salt mix with ME salt with distill water and do another set f test later.

I should drill a hole through the wall and run the hose through it. Then put my cannister in my dad's room. Ok gotta do it before she comes home today.

monsieur I have dei chiller inside

ORP The oxidation reduction potential (ORP) of marine aquaria is a measure of the relative oxidizing power of the water. It has often been recommended to aquarists as an important water parameter, and some companies sell products (equipment and chemicals) designed to control ORP. Many who recommended ORP control have convinced aquarists that it is a measure of the relative "purity" of aquarium water, despite the fact that this has not been clearly demonstrated. ORP, at its heart, is very, very complicated. It is, perhaps, the single most complicated chemical feature of marine aquaria that aquarists will typically encounter. It is not hard just for aquarists who are not scientists. I had to learn a great deal about the electrochemistry of natural waters in order to write this article, and had help from a number of other chemists in understanding some of the principles that are usually swept under the rug. ORP involves many chemical details that are simply unknown, either for seawater or for aquaria. It involves processes that are not at equilibrium, and so are difficult to understand and predict. Even more daunting is the fact that the chemical species that control ORP in one aquarium might not even be the same chemicals that control ORP in another aquarium, or in natural seawater. Because of these complexities, this article is split into two parts: a simplified part and a detailed part. The first part explains what ORP is and why one might measure or control it, in terms that any aquarist can readily understand. It does not, however, explain any of the science behind ORP. It will be useful for aquarists that want a simple understanding of what ORP is in the context of a reef aquarium. The second half goes into great detail on the science behind ORP, including extensive discussions about what facts simply are not known. Many of the details in that part are important to truly understanding what ORP means to aquaria. Unfortunately, these facts have often been glossed over, or ignored entirely, by aquarists using ORP measurements. Such details will help aquarists better understand whether or not it is a good idea to control ORP, to understand the difficulties in attaining interpretable measurements, and to understand what ORP readings are actually telling them about their aquaria. Read full article from Reefkeeping ....

yeah. having anohter canister in the open. Wife gonna be unhappy again.

All the best Fuel. Hope you succeed. It will be yet another tremendous achievement. "Jia you!"

hmm this is larger than my current 12/16.

Peter what is the hose size for 2026?

Upzz for your sale Peter. Your LPS really look very nice and healthy.